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Zero to Seventeen

PERU | Wednesday, 25 June 2008 | Views [437]

i arrived in lima on wednesday night and took a taxi to my hotel for the night where i played some pool and foosball until about two am with the owner.  the next day was another rainy day in lima and i wasn´t exactly excited to walk around in the smog so i booked my night bus to huaraz and left thursday night at ten.  unable to sleep, i layed in my seat and waited for the white cakes to show up and eventually they did around three or four am.  i could see them perfectly since the full moon was only a day before.  there were some peaks that i had never seen or heard of before, FA potential? i don´t know.  anyway, i met my old friend salvador in huaraz fri morning and he put me up in my usual room at hotel tamia.  that afternoon i checked the weather report only to find that it was supposed to rain within three days.  i got my ass in gear, bought all the food and supplies i needed and headed for Maparaju in Quebrada Quilcahuanca.  long story short, i was planning on resting sunday, climbing monday and returning today.  i woke up interestingly at one thirty on sunday morning (when i had planned to start climbing the following day) randomly and my intuition told me to go for it.  it was the perfect night for an ascent so i fired up the coffee and put my skis on my back.  i left camp at three am and climbed for four hours to the summit of Maparaju.  the snow conditions were perfect for climbing, but a little rough for skiing, i went for it anyhow.  it took me two hours and and fifteen minutes from the glacier to the summit and twelve minutes for the ski descent.  all and all, i went from sea level to seventeen in four days which isn´t a great idea but my body handled it and i can´t wait for the next climb.  the photos don´t justify...no ski photos as it was dificult enough to keep my nerves down on the descent let alone take a picture of myself while doing it...

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