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The Rootless Spinster

Kafue National Park - "Ghosts of Africa"

ZAMBIA | Monday, 18 May 2015 | Views [167] | Scholarship Entry

For several months I had been volunteering on a horse safari in the Kafue National Park, the largest park in Zambia. The safari camp was not yet open and part of our days were spent exploring the area for places to take guests on rides to view game.
During one particular ride Stephan, the owner, and I found ourselves in a small clearing surrounded by seemingly impenetrable bush. We stopped to look around when we heard a deep, loud growl. It was at this point I wondered why I thought working towards becoming a safari guide would be a good idea. In the centre of the clearing stood an enormous baobab tree. I thought perhaps the noise had come from behind it. It felt as though we were being watched.
I frantically scanned the bush searching for the source of the noise. To an untrained ear, such as mine, I would have bet it came from a lion, undoubtedly one that was about to pounce. Stephan held his hand up, suggesting I remain quiet. Fear saw to that.
If I could spot the animal at least I would know which way to point my horse, who was too busy eating grass to concern himself with our safety. I couldn’t see any lions, but then again lions weren’t designed to be easily seen.
Stephan moved forward with his horse, and like a lamb to the slaughter, I followed. He turned around and mouthed the word elephant. Since when did an elephant sound like a lion? How could I not see the largest land mammal on the planet? I didn’t buy into it.
Stephan swung wide and we carried on. “Are you sure that was an elephant?” I asked Stephan, who has lived half his life in the bush. He assured me that it was an elephant and the noise we heard was a warning. Fair enough, but then why couldn’t we see such a huge animal?
“Elephants” he explained, “are known as the ghosts of Africa.” The explanation, I felt was weak.
Into the second hour of our ride we found ourselves heading down a sandy road, lined on either side with large, overhanging branches turning the road into a tunnel. In the distance, it appeared as though someone was drawing a curtain across our path.
“Elephant!” Stephan said and took off towards them at a gallop. My horse left me no option other than to follow. I could see three elephants crossing the road and I worried what might happen if we caught up to them.
Finally we pulled up but they had disappeared. Not even the faintest of noises remained. I couldn’t understand how one minute they were there and the next they were gone.
“Ghosts of Africa” Stephan said.

Tags: 2015 Writing Scholarship

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