The Search for Genius

I had just climbed the Dome of the Cattedrale di Santa Maria del Fiori, known better as the Duomo. The 80 metre high dome ascent is a test for those prone to vertigo, claustraphobia and/or lack of fitness with its series of winding tunnels, steep staircases and narrow balconies. The reward at the top is fresh air and a stunning view of Florence. My next stop was the Santa Croce Cathedral. These two churches have some similarities at first glance because their facades were rebuilt around the same time in the 19th Century. But while the Duomo is a an imposing landmark as you travel around Florence, Santa Croce is harder to find. The Duomo is alive with wide eyed visitors whereas Santa Croce is quieter, more solemn and more subtle, but enticing, alluring. Just inside the heavy, carved twin doors is the nave, a long vaulted space with an alter at the far end and a series of arches down both sides. Within these arches along the walls are the crypts of people like Rossini, Machiavelli and Galileo and the artwork of Gaddi, Giotto and Donatello. There is also a cenotaph commemorating the death of Dante Alighieri. This place is buzzing with so much creative and intellectual energy. Its almost creepy. The crypts are masterpieces themselves, a flowing epitaph, art and sculpture work depicting their lives and achievements , and life-sized figures mournfully draped over each crypt.
Then there is Michelangelo. Oddly, he lies second in from the door, not as central as I had imagined. But his space is the grandest and the most affecting. There is a bust with artwork either side showing his talents in architecture, painting, sculpture, design and literature. Three clearly distraught female figures sit either side and in front of the crypt. All are grieving deeply, the one at the front painfully so. As I took in this haunting scene I felt a hand on my arm. I jumped. I don't know how long I had been standing there. I turned to see an old bearded man. He smiled. 'I have been watching you for some time.' Yes? We stood for some time in silence. 'Do you know why Michelangelo is buried in this very spot?' No. 'When the door is open he would be able to see his beloved Duomo from his crypt forever. See for yourself.' I knelt down to get the right eyeline from the crypt. There were many people around the crypt so it was hard to get a clear view. Then the crowd parted, the door opened, and there it was, the magnificent red Duomo. I looked around for the old man. He was gone.