The next leg of the trip (destination Hoi An) was the worst bus trip yet. Having been promised a VIP bus since the trip was 24 hours long (we know that sounds obnoxious but they’re the only way you can travel in some reasonable comfort) we were confronted by a very shabby vehicle filled primarily with freight and passengers squeezed in between the boxes. Horrified but thinking positively we got there early and placed our bags onto two of the better seats. On our return to the bus after getting food we were ushered to the back of the bus. Refusing at first knowing full well it was common for westerners to be placed up the back amongst the boxes in the crappiest seats available, the driver insisted these seats were better. Fooled again - the seats did not even recline nor have any sufficient leg room and by the time we got back to our original seats they had been occupied by some very smug looking locals. Utterly furious I stormed up to the driver and demanded we have our original seats… I continued to make quiet a scene until they finally took notice of me – and by notice I think he probably told me to “eff off” in Vietnamese and clearly gestured for me to get off his bus, which was then followed by everyone on the bus laughing hysterically. I was so furious and in complete dismay at the thought of being in the most uncomfortable position for 24 long hours, I just sat in my seat and cried. Very funny in retrospect but at least it got one of the other much nicer drivers sympathy; moving some of the boxes from under our feet so we had a few inches in which to move (all the while probably thinking “silly western princess”). The only other westerners on the bus were two Swiss guys who didn’t have it any better than us. I think the whole ordeal was emphasized by the rude Vietnamese temperament which we had not encountered being in Laos for some weeks. I don’t want to generalise but the Vietnamese truly are a harsher and unbelievable rude people in comparison to Laos and Cambodia - more so in the large cities. But I guess you can hardly blame them, it truly is a dog eat dog society and they are simply products of their environment.
Hoi An and the sight of the ocean was a welcome treat after being land locked for nearly four weeks. Our time was anything but cultural, spiritual or the like, spending the three days we were there getting clothes and shoes tailor made and riding bikes down to the beach. Pretty tough. The only issue we had was my tailor, who had the foulest attitude, but after paying the 50% deposit there wasn’t a whole lot I could do but deal. Angus on the other hand dealt with the most wonderful lady (at the same shop) and I think at times enjoyed watching my struggles and ongoing frustration whilst he sat back and relished the ease of his dealings.
Siam Reap next – after crossing the boarder with far less fuss than entering Vietnam our first bus stopover stayed true to the Cambodian rumors - having plethora of unusual edible delicacies, including to our horror; turtle and to Angus’ curiousness; bbq tarantula (which he has promised to attempted at some stage). The town truly surprised us with its very western tourist district and full on night life (one strip called “pub street”). Our first day was spent at the Angkor Wat and Angkor Thom temples. Riding bikes there in the 30 degree heat was a struggle in itself but the dry heat engulfed us at the temples making every step an effort. Regardless they were both phenomenal and despite Angkor Wat being in restorative stages it’s sheer size and grandeur can only be appreciated in the flesh. Leaving around 3pm we soon realized we left at exactly the right time as swarms of tour groups came up the steps – posing Malaysians for photo’s on dehydrated ponies and every Japanese man and his dog seemed to be there with their four different sized tripods and 8 lenses. Despite missing the sunset the tourist were quiet unbearable and we were happy to leave.
That night we wandered over to “pub street”, which had intended and non intended entertainment. Angus and I were amused for many hours watching the multitude of horrendously dressed prostitutes meandering up and down the strip in groups, the numbers dwindling by the early hours of the morning. We bar hopped up and down the street and finally ended at Angkor What?, infamous for their lethal buckets, we joined forces with a Belgian couple and stumbled home at 4am. The next day we had planned to go to the land mine museum but feeling pretty sorry for ourselves, didn’t make it much further than the local pool run by the very friendly Englishman ‘John’ and his lovely non English speaking Cambodian lady friend.
Back in Phnom Penh today and will report of movements here and on the coast next week. Until then… Love T & A
