So apparently you are not allowed to leave the country with a one-way ticket unless you have return flights booked. We were made aware of this at check-in. So after leaving the flight itinerary at home which left us totally frazzled and then to hear from the snooty jetstar assistant we would not be able to board our flight, things were off to a ripping start. Apparently we were meant to sift through the very extensive smart traveler website until we found this information and it was not the airlines responsibility to disclose this. Anyway, so snooty mc snoot then directs us to the service desk to make other arrangements. We were very relieved however to find out from the much nicer 'Wayne' that we can in fact book return flights on the spot and board our flight. Thank Christ.
Things were looking up... until we got to Darwin for our Saigon transfer. One hour delay - manageable. Two hour delay - somewhat frustrating, but still manageable. Flight cancellation - not so happy. Flying jetstar, we thought a flight cancellation meant being directed to the airport white pages or alternatively sleeping there overnight with our packs as pillows but we were pleasantly surprised being put up in the swanky Darwin Inn - full buffet breaky included. Since this would probably be the nicest accommodation we would be staying in for weeks frustration at the inconvenience soon turned to taking full advantage of our situation.
Exiting Saigon airport we felt like Vietnams hottest power couple (looking much different however) with hundreds of people flanking the isles taking pictures and trying to get our attention as we walked down the exit "runway". Sweating bullets within seconds we eventually found a cab and reached our hotel who had given our room away due to us missing our first night so we were shoved in a box with no windows at the back at the complex. Positive thinking prevailed however as we both agreed minimum time would be spent in there.
Much to Angus's delight my first mission (before I got these bad boys out) was to get a leg wax. We found a lovely girl - not so lovely experience. 2 hours later of boiling hot wax and dodgy strips she had managed to miss a good 1/3 of hairs (by this stage angus had passed out). Not the most fascinating experience to share but we feel it sums up Vietnam quiet well; as thorough and hard working the Vietnamese people are, everything always seems half finished and that is part of its charm.
The rest of the day was primarily spent exploring. Staying in the backpacker district there is a phenomenal western influence and many areas are like little las vegas alleyways with random fluorescing nativity scenes which look like jesus is on acid. The traffic is incredibly hectic and there is a fine art to crossing the road (which we still haven’t completely mastered). We try to steer clear of the western bars and restaurants and stick to the street food and beer which will set you back about a dollar for a feed and 20c for beers (Not exactly running out of money any time soon). Simply sitting on any main corner and watching the traffic and people go by is entertainment enough for an afternoon. Motorbikes laden with up to what looks like 100kgs of goods and families of four sharing the one bike defying all kinds of safety is shocking and awesome. We especially enjoy watching the many old western men walking by with young Vietnamese girls under arms. Legitamite? Maybe. Likely? We think not.
The next day we went to the cu chi tunnels used by the viet kong in the Vietnam war. Unfortunately we were put with a group of about 30 other tourists and it made the day quiet unbearable. The passengers were as offensive as the bright red and gaudy bus exterior. You could have seen that thing from the moon. Obnoxious Americans winged about the $4 entry fee and had to ask the same questions four times because they didn't listen the first time instructions were given... or perhaps it was because the tour guide didn't speak "American". Cher wannabees straddled cannons for photos but the highlight of tourist activity was when a young Australian girl with a significant spare tire got stuck in the tunnel entry and had to have 5 men pull her out. Hi-larious! We were also shown a very propagandist movie (much like most of the war museums in Saigon) which went on the call the enemy "American killing devils" among other such derogatives. This was especially humorous watching the Americans shifting in their seat. Although I wouldn't visit the tunnels again, all in all they are a must when visiting Vietnam. The experience of crawling through a very hot and stuffy 90 by 120cm tunnel 3 meters under ground gives you an enormous appreciation of the sheer athleticism and ingenuity of the viet kon people and the system they created.
That night beer and pho in the always classy backpackers district during which a middle age Sweed sat down at our table and proceeded to explain his unfortunate predicament to us. Apparently, he was walking in an alleyway and a lady boy approached him and tried to grab his arms and pull his hands out of his pockets. Unable to resist the sheer strength of the "ladys" grip she pulled his hands out of his pockets and somehow managed to steal his wallet without him noticing. Yeah righto mate. We informed him that there was free internet at our hotel to cancel his cards so we didn't need to lend him money. And off he went, completely embarrassed that not only had he fabricated such a ridiculous story but he had unnecessarily shared it with two complete strangers. LOL.
Our last day in Saigon was spent relaxing drinking green saigon and playing cards on the grass watching the new years eve celebratory performers rehearse for the following night. I bought a watch which stopped three times in the one day - the third time we went back I demanded a exchange. We tried all sorts of strange street foods including dried squid which tasted like bait and an unusual Vietnamese man stroked down Angus’ leg in an attempt to shine his shoe. This was before he had realized that angus was wearing white canvas’ and black nugget just wouldn’t work. We also went to the war museum which was more propagandist than the tunnel video with horrific photos of blown apart limbs and dead Vietnamese babies and children, however the area up stairs was far less bias and has some incredible photographs and war artifacts on display.
That night we flew to Hanoi. We were the only westerners on the flight and thoroughly enjoyed the lack of drunk and rowdy boagan travelers. It was raining and 19 degs when we got off the plane which was a sharp contrast to the heat we left behind as at saigon. By the time we got to the hotel it was 1am and thats pretty late by Vietnamese standards and the city was absolutely dead. Hanoi is far more beautiful and untouched by modernisation than Saigon and the French colonial influence is very prevalent from the architecture the food with French frie street stalls at every corner. The people are nicer, the atmosphere is slower but the traffic is just as bad.
Our first day we went to the Ha Loe prison which was originally built by the French colonists to house Vietnamese prisoners and later to incarcerate American prisoners of war. We walked through some markets with every animal you can imagine on sale for the eating; live frogs, eels, turtles and every description of animal innards.
That night we met up with Angus' mate Jake and Lou, Annabelle & Justin from home. Our evening began at the hanoi backpackers which was ridiculously packed & half of the kids were off their guts by the time we got there around 730… no thanks to the 80c beer and sangria. As respect to the neighbours things shut down there around 930 and everyone was given a multi-coloured sombrero as we walked up to Flannigan’s bar just up the road - which was quiet a sight. Things got fairly loose and everyone virtually forgot the countdown and it was about 5 past 12 and we all looked at each other, said "happy new year". At around 1am the festivities ceased as a ute load of police closed the bar because of curfew. A short walk/stumble home in the mist, and that was new years 2009.
The next day was lazy. Jake took us to beer hoi where you sit on little plastic chairs right on the corner of the street and drink 30c pots. It's pretty popular with the tourist so the chairs eventually spill off the sidewalk until people are sitting virtually in the middle of a t-intersection.
The next day we got up early to take the 3 1/2 hour bus trip to Halong Bay. It was pissing down and foggy as all hell though so being able to see a lot of the mountains was difficult and the boat was wet and slippery so most of the time was spent inside. We drove around for an hour or so before we docked to get off to go inside the main halong cave which was pretty spectacular. Huge stalactites and stalagmites in massive open caves - it took us a good half hour to walk around the whole thing. After that some of our group went kayaking into some of the caves but is was still very wet and angus and I (being extremely unadventurous) opted out - partly because he still had his camera and both of us only had no change of clothes for the trip.
We were very lucky with our group with mostly young people from Israel, France & Germany. Angus & I were a little jealous however that we couldn't speak our own language amongst ourselves like all the people on our boat. We slept on the boat that night & the next day the fog lifted making the scenery that much more spectacular. That morning was spent on top deck lying in the sun lounges listening to the Israeli brothers rendition of the Titanic theme song on recorder. Then the bumpy bus trip back to Hanoi.
Tomorrow we leave for Spa, then maybe back to Hanoi to leave for Laos but we will try to get a bus directly from Sapa if possible.
Apologies for the essay but if your reading this we’re thinking it's not totally uninteresting...
Xin chao ong/ba (goodbye) & love from Hanoi - Angus & Tess
