Undercover tourist at the ruins of Takht-i-Bahi

Most of my family and friends thought I was crazy when I said I was going to Pakistan. The negative media coverage means most people wouldn't even consider visiting Pakistan, despite the fact that, for most people, life there continues as usual. For me, having a local friend made it easy to visit this country that has so much to offer, even during difficult times.

At some point my friend mentioned Takht-i-Bahi, UNESCO-listed remains of a Buddhist monastery from the 1st century. The site is located in Khyber Pakhtunkhwa, close to the city of Mardan and an hour's drive from Peshawar. I had never heard of the site, despite all the research I had done and despite my fascination with archeological sites.

Khyber Pakhtunkhwa is seen as dangerous because of the presence of the Taliban, although most of the province is relatively safe. Nevertheless, the lack of tourists means any foreigner stands out, and even though the likelihood of something happening is still very small, as a foreigner I was a potential target.

But Takht-i-Bahi sounded like a place I simply had to see.

Luckily, being a woman in an Islamic country meant there was an easy solution: dressing myself in a burqa. And so I hid my blond hair and my identity, and I headed to Takht-i-Bahi with my friend, who told everyone I was his wife.

My friend bought me a Pakistani ticket, which cost only a fraction of the price foreigners are supposed to pay. Then we climbed the steps to the hilltop ruins and prepared to be amazed.

What makes Takht-i-Bahi stand out is the combination of well-preserved ruins and the hilly setting. The style of the buildings is similar to Taxila, a more well-known archeological site close to Islamabad. Yet the structures at Takht-i-Bahi are much more intact, and walking among the high dry stone walls gives one a sense of respect for the people who managed to build a site so complex in such a difficult location.

When you climb higher up, you can see how the monastery dominates over the surrounding landscape. As I was analyzing the architecture under my burqa, I was wondering how many tourists this place would have if it was in neighboring India instead. Hopefully, the situation in Pakistan will improve soon, and more people can go and experience the country's many sights and hospitable culture.

As we descended back down, we could see some rocks in the distance on another hill. These were more ruins waiting to be uncovered, waiting for better times and a new chance for Pakistan.