How many of us, Indians have either wanted to visit the crown of our Country? Been given the opportunity to go there? Have actually visited Kashmir??.... And how many of us have "Yes" as an answer to all the above questions?? I do!!!!
Along with me, my brother Charan and his dear friend, Elvin also had the chance to visit Paradise on Earth, right here in India, KASHMIR!! Let me warn you, this is going to be a looong story!...We were there for 17 days!!
Thanks to my Uncle being in the Indian Army, and we being his proud family got to stay in the Srinagar Badami Bagh Cant away from all the terror Kashmir is known for. For security reasons I will not be mentioning his name throughout this article but will call him Dwaju Mama as I fondly do! The other important people during the trip are my Aunt Roopa Aunty, who dint leave out on feeding us any vegetarian dish, and Sheesh Bhaiya who constantly made the house look presentable amidst our strewn luggage.
The excitement began a month before the actual travel date, thanks to the early booking of tickets to get a cheaper fare on Spice Jet.
The adventure however started from the moment Charan and I caught a private taxi from the Airport Bus Stop, owing to waking up late on THE day!!...
Meeting Elvin at the airport was the moment from when the clicks and flashes on the cameras became part of daily (I mean moment-ly) activity!!! We clicked pictures at every turn and every corner of the Airport, the Tarmac (where we are not supposed to!!) and the insides of the flight!!...
Other episodes on the flight were of making friends with all the airhostesses and stewards, mystery of the lost and found book, helping in the cleaning and meal arrangement at the Delhi airport, where we were the only three passengers on board, and not to forget the innumerable photo sessions.
The first aerial view of Jammu & Kashmir was truly a breath taking sight! The photos will speak for themselves but not justify the scene.
Srinagar Airport was the only place where we were actually frightened to get our cameras out of the bag!...We met Dwaju Mama and Roopa Aunty outside and after a small session of exchanging hugs and hellos drove to our home, in the COE (Chinar Officers Enclave)in the famous Badami Bagh Cant! The entrance of the Cant, especially the Brigadier Rajendra Singh (BRS) gate is best explained as a gate between two countries!!....The amount of security checks, question-answer sessions, bomb squad searches etc, give you the true feeling of being in Kashmir!!!
After a quick refreshment session at home we set out to explore the Cant. Our first stop was the Pani Mandir. This is a small temple with a Shiv Lingam inside, located in a small pond of water with a tiny bridge leading to it. We also walked past the Chinar Library, Chinar Shopping Complex, Chinar Auditorium, Gulshan- the canteen, the Golf Course, Chinar Officers Institute and the Gym.
After a peaceful and yummy dinner we decided to hit the sack and await the excitement in store for day 2!!
Day 2 was saved for a Shikhara Ride on Dal Lake- One of the main highlights of the trip. Aashiq Bhaiya’s Shikhara- "Dilbar Aashiq" was our vehicle to meander through the explored and well hidden routes of the lake.
His witty jokes, pieces of facts, old Hindi music and smart comments kept us entertained throughout the ride.
In between the lake, when you’re feeling Kashmiri enough, amidst the picturesque mountains, the clear water and the beautiful scenery, to complete the experience another Shikhara comes along, offering to make you not only feel like being in Kashmir but also look like a localite!! Yes, I was made to jump off our Shikhara into another for Bhaiya to dress me up as a Kashmiri woman!!
Every bit of this experience will be etched in my memory for a long long time. A million photographs and videos were captured so as to re-live every action, move and pose of the event. Kashmiri women are truly beautiful (a fact known to all), but the sweet photographer complimented me saying I could give them competition!!
Charan and Elvin were made to dress as Phatans too.
Other highlights of the Shikhara ride were, the Char Chinar- Four Chinar Trees in between the lake; the Floating Land, the never ending row of the House boats with most of them having British names, and our visit into one of the posh Houseboats!
Next we visited Nishaat Bagh. It is the best of the Mughal Gardens in Srinagar, maybe because it was the first that we visited or maybe because it really is beautiful. Nishaat Bagh offers a splendid view of the Dal Lake as well as the snow capped Pir Panjal mountain range. Nishaat garden is also the largest one of the Mughal gardens in Kashmir.
Also known as "The Garden of Bliss", the Nishaat gardens have the Zabarwan Mountains forming its backdrop. Asaf Khan, the brother of Nur Jahan, designed the Kashmir Nishaat Bagh in 1633 AD. The number of flowers, the colours, the sizes and the types of flowers are extremely difficult to word.
And this time even the innumerable pictures could not do justice. After a long session of clicking photographs, climbing up all the 12 levels/balconies; each corresponding to a sign of the Zodiac, and the women applying the traditional Mehendi, we decided to call it the end of a fruitful day and head back home.
The night was spent talking about the day’s activities and planning for the days to come. The next morning we dutifully got dressed to be on time to visit the Museum in the Cant.
We were given close to VIP treatment and detailed explanation regarding the history of Kashmir, the issues between the neighbouring countries and about POK. After a sumptuous meal we set out to explore more of Srinagar. The day’s itinerary included Pari Mahal and Chashmashahi Mughal Gardens.
Pari Mahal is a beautiful palace located on a hill gradient that provides a breath taking view of Srinagar from the different balconies at different levels.
Pari Mahal of Kashmir once served as the royal observatory. The pictures surely justify that it is one of the best view points and an awesome photo shoot spot.
Chashmashahi is the smallest of the three Mughal gardens of Kashmir. Meaning Royal Spring,Chashmishahi was set up by the Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan. The garden is quite famous for the spring of energizing digestive mineral water inside it.
The water for the fountains comes from the spring. This water then goes through the floor of the pavilion and falls over to the lower terrace, over a polished black stone chute. Also, a number of fruits, flowers and the famous Chinar trees grow in the garden, adding to its appeal.
Day 3 began quite early in the morning. As it was the weekend and we decided to head to Gulmarg. We also had places to visit en-route. Dwaju Mama had some chores to attend to at Uri and Kaman Post.
Uri is the last village in India before the border. While Dwaju mama finished his work we freshened up at the guest house.
Kaman Post was the actual highlight of the itinerary as it is the border between India and Pakistan, and unlike the Wagah Border in Amritsar, this place is under tight security throughout the year, and impossible to go to if you do not have Army connections!!....And here again, I’m the lucky one!!....Thanks to Dwaju Mama, we got to visit this place, where every alternate Wednesday, people and goods are exchanged at the border, through a bus that travels from India to Pakistan.
However, we did not cross over to Pakistan, but we did wave hello our friendly neighbours.
Kaman Setu is actually a bridge over the river Jhelum, that acts as a natural barrier (a very rugged and extremely difficult to cross) between the two countries. The buses from India or Pakistan stop at their respective ends of the bridge and people and goods are exchanged over the bridge.
Eating roasted corn, listening to patriotic songs, and terrorist tales kept the journey interesting and fun.
Finally by late evening we reached Gulmarg, the temperature began to drop...finally!.. Our rooms were booked at FIR, another Army accommodation, where again we were given royal treatment and yummy food! While the elders relaxed and chatted, the kids set out to discover places around in the dark! Charan found the ‘Charan’s Post’, where he crossed the barbed wire to get a tiny flower for his dear sis!
We spent the next few hours singing, dancing, gossiping & not to forget shivering!!
Gulmarg in the morning is way different from Gulmarg at night...The sun is up but it was still cold. We set out to take the Gondola Ride from the valley to the higher altitude, all of us excited to see snow!
The Gondola ride was amazing fun, as expected. The tickets were also discounted, the reason being the obvious, Army connections. Talk about luck! The only disappointment was that after reaching Phase I, we were informed that the Gondola would not go up to Phase II, and we had to either walk or ride horseback to reach the snow!
Walking was definitely out of question, even though Charan tried to convince us for a long long time. So, we decided to burden the poor horses to take us all the way uphill. This turned out to be another memorable event of the entire trip!
Riding on Raju (my faithful Horse) was as scary as it was fun. He was the most experience horse there, 7 years old. Charan’s horse, Badal, was the youngest of the lot, just 3 years old! Climbing uphill was pretty strenuous not only for the horses but also for us! I was literally clinging on to Raju’s back and holding the reins so tight. We had to climb adjacent to the waterfall, stepping over all the sharp rocks and slippery stones. Every time I saw Roopa aunty’s horse falter to step foot I literally skipped a heartbeat, hardly noticing that Raju was sailing in the same boat!
We finally reached the top where the horses could go no more. We finally set foot on the snow, in fact ice!! A few of our friends along the way up, convinced us to try out the Sledge ride on the ice.
And yes we did!...screaming through the ride made it more fun that it already was. Charan climbed up all the way to the higher Sleighing point, running over the ice.
The guy really has the talent. Elvin also etched a memory for himself by making a hole in the ice! He almost fell into a crevice! I believe the water underneath was really really cold. After a couple of poses, snowball fights and photo sessions on the ice, we mounted back on the horses.
Only Charan and I managed to gather guts to cling on horseback all the way down, Elvin, Dwaju mama and Roopa aunty were terrified of the steep slopes.
We came down Khilan Marg, the route where tourists, take a one way ticket to go up by the Gondola and sleigh all the way down. We also saw the seven springs where water springs up from seven different sources.
We also visited the well known, “Jai Jai Shiva Shankar” Temple in Gulmarg, a temple that gained all the fame after the song Jai Jai Shiva Shankar was shot there!
After a tiring day trip, we went back to the room, packed our bags, had a nice meal, bid good bye to our hosts and turned back to Srinagar.
It was day 6 already! We decided to visit the famed Shankaracharya Temple atop the highest hillock, Takht-e-Suleiman in Srinagar (actually Bhalu Post is higher, but that comes under the Army Jurisdiction). It is housed at a height of 1100 ft. above surface level of the main city on the hill.
The great philosopher Shankaracharya is supposed to have stayed here when he visited Kashmir to revive Sanatan Dharma. The Shankaracharya Mandir of Kashmir,is dedicated to Lord Shiva and is thought to be the oldest shrine in the Kashmir valley. The temple is of great importance, not only from the point of view of religion, but also from architectural viewpoint. We were not allowed to carry our cameras so my word would be the only explanation for this spot.
After coming down the hill, we decided to finish off the Garden visits with the last one, The Shalimar Mughal Gardens. Emperor Jahangir got the Shalimar Garden built for his wife Nur Jahan in 1616.
Also known as the "Garden of Love", the Shalimar Mughal Gardens has four terraces, rising one above the other. There is also a canal lined with polished stones running through the center of the Shalimar Bagh.
Other attractions of the Shalimar Bagh of Kashmir include a number of fountains, shaded trees and innumerable varieties of flowers that blossom in spring and autumn.
It seemed to us as if the entire population of Srinagar was here at the Garden! The beautiful flowers were all over the place and each of them deserved a second look and that explains the number of pictures.
Day 7 was different. We kids decided to have an adventure. We wanted to actually feel the Local culture and you can say terror of Srinagar. So we decided to leave the elders back home, safe within the secured walls of the Cantonlment, and venture out on our own.
After dressing up like a typical Muslim girl, with all the Kajal and having my duppatta on my head, the two boys, my body guards and me, set out to the bus stop. We managed to get a bus to take us to Lal Chowk, one of the famed centres of bomb blasts in the city!...
We went up and down the road, had an ice cream, took quick photos without drawing too much attention, and got another bus to take us to Hazrat Bal Mosque.
This revered shrine houses the Moi-e-Muqqadus (preserved sacred hair) of Prophet Mohammad. Hazratbal is an epitome of the love and respect of Muslims for the Prophet.
The Hazratbal Mosque of Kashmir is a beautiful structure of immaculate white marble. The construction took about eleven years and the mosque was completed in 1979. The Friday prayers offered at Hazratbal attract the resident Muslims in huge numbers. And sometimes this can be a scary scenario too. Another attraction of Hazratbal is that it is the only domed mosque in Srinagar.
Call it risk, silliness or a passion for adventure, we actually ended up going inside the mosque, pose as perfect localites and satisfy out curiosity. An awesome experience at the end of the day!
So there was the end of another day in Kashmir, with Dwaju Mama and Roopa Aunty heaving a sigh of relief that we made it back safe & sound, and we priding our sense of accomplishment.
Day 8 was planned for Pahalgam, a hill station in Kashmir. The entire state itself is like a hill station!! Inspite of it being a gloomy day, with a slight drizzle all through we managed to not allow it to dampen our spirits.
We could not go river rafting, which was a disappointment but we still enjoyed a lot. All through the journey, the river Jhelum accompanied us, hugging the road!
En route we also stopped to click photos at several places, such as Avantipur; where two destructed Hindu Temples are being resurrected and Anantnag, a place known for the manufacture of Cricket Bats.
Since there was nothing much we could do at Pahalgam, owning to the rain, we decided to hav a nice meal at a Punjabi Dhaba, before deciding the course of action for the rest of the day. At the Dhaba, we were informed of a place called Betaab Valley, a pictourous spot.
On reaching Betaab Valley we realised that it got its name from a Sunny Deol movie that was shot here.
This is India!...Movies can be the reason for places to be named and get fame! The Valley was definitely worth the visit!....One of the best, and underrated tourist spots. The pictures will do the rest of the description.
After a tiring day, we got back home, and Roopa Aunty and I got busy in the kitchen making Paneer pakodas for a late evening snack, after which we just relaxed.
Early next morning we decided to leave to Sonamarg, but due to unfortunate event of two policemen being shot by terrorists (at the same place where we visited the other day), the plan was cancelled. So we just killed time at home, with the company of the Plums and the Camera!
Long walks in the cant had now become a routine. Now, us being localites of the cant, we ventured out to buy small items like juices & chocolates and also visited the Chinar Auditorium to watch a movie- Kisse Pyaar Karon; unfortunately it turned out to be a big mistake and we walked out within 15 minutes! Shopping for souvenirs also became part of a daily chore!! Most of the bhaiyas in the shops began to recognize us, as the kids-all the way from Bangalore.
Later that evening, Dwaju mama, Roopa Aunty, Elvin, Charan, and myself accompanied by Jai Shree Singh Bhaiya (our sweet driver) and Sheesh Bhaiya went up to Bhalu Post.
This is actually the highest spot in Srinagar, but civilians are not allowed here.
The view from up there is breath taking. One can see the famed Shankaracharya Temple, the River Jhelum meandering, Dal lake at its pictorious best, the Char Chinar, the tall mountains on all sides. Our photo sessions took different and creative turns owing to the wonderful evening breeze.
We had yummy hot hot Maggi, a common favourite dish among all of us, in the Gazebo;
while enjoying the beautiful sunset and then decided to get back home, after making Dwaju mama promise that he would bring us here once more before we leave.
Day 10 dawned, and it was time for Elvin to leave. So the morning was spent in helping him pack the leftovers from last night. After a nice quick lunch, we all trouped into the car to drop him off at the airport. This was the only time during the trip that Elvin and me did not fight!....
Damn I was going to miss him. The rest of the day was pretty much uneventful.
Day 11 was also pretty much a quiet day. We just strolled around the Cant. Charan started his horse riding classes.
I was improving my Culinary Skills and helping Roopa aunty with her notes and assignments for B.Ed. The Chinar Library was the hangout for the day!
The next day, I got up only by afternoon so there was hardly any time left for anything, Later in the evening we went to COI- Chinar Officers Institute, for Tambola Night.
All dressed to impress the young officers and their sons and daughters, Charan and I had a nice time. We had our belly full with dinner and also digested most of it by dancing like crazy.
Day 12, being a Sunday, we headed to Sunday Market, a market on the road selling anything and everything you want.
If anybody wants to polish their bargaining skills this is paradise for them! Roopa aunty did a bit of shopping for curtains, pillow covers and bags while we just hung around. We then went to Coffea Arabica, a posh restaurant for a lunch treat.
Our agenda for the day was to find Nageen Lake, and the Houseboat in which my sis and bro in law would be staying during their visit to Srinagar in September. This got us to go for another Shikhara Ride!..We then spotted Jewel of Paradise- the houseboat we were hunting for. We requested the caretaker to show us around and we clicked pictures at every nook and corner of the posh Houseboat.
Day 13 and 14 were more or less spent in shopping in and around the city. We visited Residency road quite a few times.
Shoe shopping, buying gifts for people back home. We also went to the Silk factory but unfortunately could not see the making of silk as it was closing time. Our next worry was where to fit in all out purchases in the bags! The packets of Walnuts, Badams, clothes, Wooden Articles & Paper Mache items.
On Day 15, Charan and I visited Roopa Aunty’s college!
Imagine your kids waiting for your class to end. It was so much fun. We got introduced to all her classmates. Later that evening we decided to go to Bhalu Post and halt there for the night.
The weather was pretty cold. The highlight of this visit was that we Overate.
We kept eating so much and the food kept being replenished! However, Charan and I decided not to sleep all night and we waited up for the Sun to rise.
It was definitely a test of our patience but definitely an experience to cherish. After enjoying the Sunrise with a hot cup of tea, we came back home, only to sleep the rest of the day!
Day 16 was the last day we had left in Srinagar. This meant we just wanted to spend as much time possible at home. After a hectic couple of days, it was time to relax. Being, Raksha Bandhan, I bought a Rakhi for Charan he bought gifts for me!... We had a small and cute Raksha Bandhan Ceremony at home.
The rest of the day was spent in the kitchen or in front of the laptop, seeing all the pictures we’ve clicked through the trip, and trust me that took us the whole day!
Unfortunately, it was Day 17. We dint feel like getting out of bed. The room was all clean, to Sheesh Bhaiya’s delight! All our bags were packed to the brim.
We decided to visit the Sarva Dharma Sthal before we left home. This was the best spot in the Cant, and we regretted not going there earlier. It is the place where people of all religions can go to offer prayers to the Lord. It has the Altars of all the Gods of all Religious beliefs.
After bidding good bye to everyone and everything, with heavy hearts we left the Cant, only hoping to visit soon.
At the airport, there was no more adventure. I will not mention the googbyes and tears at the airport, because the memories of this trip should only be sweet ones. We were not allowed to carry any hand baggage, except for a packet of walnut (thank god the shells were removed).
Thankfully, we did not face any problems of over weighing baggage either.
Once inside the flight, Charan and me were back to normal- Playing the fool, making friends with all the flight attendants & our neighbours. The flight from Delhi to Bangalore was more or less spent on watching our favourite serial, Prison Break and chatting with a new friend sitting next to me.
We reached Bangalore by about 8 in the night, and after collecting our baggage and meeting my old colleagues, we got the correct Volvo bus back home. Another inquisitive neighbour in the bus got me to relate my Kashmir experience to her throughout the journey.
Once back home, it took me more than a month to share my experiences and pictures with family and friends.
And finally after 3 months I have finished penning down my Travelogue. And now, exactly one year later here I am, publishing my story......‘Kashmir through my eyes’!!!!