Manila's awaited wink

This city is hard to fall in love with. A damp evening changed this unexpectedly.

I wasn’t prepared for much excitement. Manila let me down twice already - a giant creature on a dingy shore. My passion to Asian cities suffered. I walked down down the street against hazy sunset, passing by empty office buildings and the Manila Bay in the distance. Sky had already gone dark when I crossed a narrow muddy canal and saw a bunch of neons edging the street. It took me a while to spot that dusky fish-shaped signboard - Seaside.

Seaside is one of these hit-or-miss places called dampa - the best spots to enjoy seafood in Philippines. The concept is a no-brainer - you buy the raw seafood at a street stall and pick a nearby restaurant to have it cooked the way you like. Simple as that.

I cowardly approached the huge dark lot holding several rows of open-air wet market on the left and eateries on the right, with a bumpy road between. The narrow pathway I chose was not welcoming until I saw what dampa is really about. Muddy paddles and harsh smell vanished. Stalls were sagging from seafood I couldn’t even name. Rainbow lobsters palled with baby sharks and ruby mussels. The variety was overwhelming with its vivd colours and shapes. I would stand there spellbound for hours if not the vendors who cornered me with their pushy haggling. I did not resist long and end up with pink plastic bag in my hands and a question in mind - what next?

The lash image of that dinner-to-be rushed me back to the messy road facing restaurants. Cheap Filipino eateries mated posh Chinese venues with golden signboards. Waiters with wrinkly menus were hunting outside for guests, ready to weigh and drop to the kitchen whatever they bought across the street. It took moments from the second I was hooked up in chat to when I was sitting at the plastic table with my seafood served. That buttery soft crawfish with chilli sauce was a meal and a half! I left with a blissful smile.

When I was finally heading back to the hotel, I had no doubt: that dampa meal was an ultimate experience I always seek. Thanks Manila for giving me that wink!

Seaside Dampa at Macapagal Boulevard is worth visiting but keep these in mind: it’s easily accessible by taxis that are cheap and it’s relatively close to the airport. Visit at daylight, as some dark corners are unpleasant at night. Don’t buy at the first stall - walk around. Some venues accept credit cards and have WIFI. And don’t forget: it’s about having fun!