Always feeling like you are home - the beautiful smell of baking bread

I had not expected a country filled with contradictions. Modern. Clean. And ancient. Turkey is simply not what I expected.

The chaos of Istanbul contrasting the calm of Ankara. The solemness of Anzac Cemetery against the majesty of the Ataturk Mausoleum. The mesmerizing history and endless sites juxtaposed alongside contemporary ceramics, rugs and art.

My journey began, like so many others, with a whirlwind introduction to Istanbul. Staying two nights in the majestic Ottoman Legacy adjacent to the Spice Market was the perfect location to scout out the Hagia Sophia, Blue Mosque, Topaki Palace, Basilica Cisterns, Hippodrome and the Grand Bazaar. After an almost 15-hour flight, the excitement and bustle of old town were simply to enticing to resist. All of these attractions are within walking distance - although the sheer volume of locals and tourists can make for some maneuvering and delays even on foot. Yet in less than 36 hours I had managed to see them all and take a leisurely stroll through one of the many tranquil gardens.

Leaving Istanbul we headed towards the Anzac Cemetary as there were Aussies amongst us. The great battles in the 1920's saw Turkey become a nation and the burial sight of the allied forces alongside the homeland troops is both moving and profound. Gravestone after gravestone bearing the young ages of the fallen, many in their teens, reminds us of the tragedy of war as one time enemies now lay side-by-side.

Troy was our next stop. While excavation has been slow and often little more than a foundation remains, the city provides a glimpse and context of what is to come. Traveling from place to place in Turkey you find little towns and roadside stops all offering Turkish cuisine and anything and everything you can imagine for sale! I quickly learned there are many keepsakes from this colourful and enchanting country and it's often best to wait, find something a bit unique and then barter your way to a truly great deal. More often than not, the bartering is as fun as your actual purchase.

There are two major stops on any trip trip to Turkey - Ephesus and Cappadocia. Little prepares you for either. The magnificence of Ephesus as you stroll towards the library is spellbinding while the sheer enormity of Cappadocia are equally as splendid. Viewing the uncovered homes that are centuries old in Ephesus and then crossing the street to the brothels give you a tantalizing insight to an empire of yesteryear.