Getting To Know Your Neighbors over Thupka Noodle Soup

Strictly speaking, it wasn’t included in the itinerary provided by our tour operator, but after much cajoling and grumbling in the back seat, our driver agreed to stop by at the Norbulingka Tibetan Institute.

“Only half an hour here, we have to reach the hotel by nightfall”, we were warned.

We passed a few teen-aged students in school uniforms near the entrance. The reception was deserted, and the place seemed so somber, that we didn’t feel like going further in without permission. But one of the students walked up to us and informed that the institute was closed for the day because it was prayer time, but we could go in and explore by ourselves.

The exterior of the premises gave away no clue about the sight that struck us as we went farther in. We had left the dusty Indian highway and entered a little piece of Tibet.

Throughout our stay in Dharamsala, we would later visit many important monasteries and Tibetan markets, but nowhere did we get the feeling of walking in that land situated miles away.

I stood in the doorway of the temple, very much conscious of the Hindu dot on my forehead, when an old woman sitting outside smiled and signaled me to go in. About two hundred people were seated on the floor, in front of a gigantic Buddha statue, chanting a hymn I did not understand.

Rest of the tourists circumvented the chanting crowd, went near the statue, took a few pictures and came out. I went and sat amongst the people, a few of them looked up but no eyebrows were raised. A while later, I got the hang of the tune and mumbled a few words that I could catch.

If not for the limited time, I could have sat there for a while longer, listening to a prayer that sounded like rhythmic silence. That was my moment of discovery.

Even as we hurriedly skimmed through other artworks on display within the campus, I couldn’t help but see how little we knew about those who had taken refuge in our country. The perception of Tibet in my mind changed from a troubled little geographical neighbor to that of a country as rich in culture as ours. The friendly attitude of India towards Tibet, previously read about only in op-eds of newspapers, gained a tangible significance now.

We had only enough time to gulp down a delicious Thupka soup in the cafe. We did not explore the entire campus and missed the art workshops by an hour.

But now I know where I would be next summer.