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Loitering in South Asia

Deshain/The coup

NEPAL | Tuesday, 20 November 2007 | Views [326]

The monsoon has decided to return with a vengeance after tempting us with a few days of hot sunshine and clear skies, and did so on Tuesday with a rather fierce thunder storm that managed to knock out the power. Out came the candles, and quicker than a lightning flash the room of knowledge, inspiration and discipline was transformed into a romantic chamber, with soft shadows dancing across everyone’s faces…all of which was completely lost on the middle-aged class of students I was teaching. I, however, enjoyed it immensely and am hoping for a repeat.

After, it was a short trip out to Swayambhu stupa (kind of a wee temple, Buddhist) in the west of the city, to meet the principal of a private school. Quite an interesting walk, once round the back of the temple (where you sneak in using one of the paths that lead up the hill) the road becomes a kind of no man’s land between the territory held by the monkeys of the temple, and the street dogs of the other side. On the left was a caravan of monkeys, obviously on the warpath somewhere, while the other side of the road was host to an equally rabid party of dogs, probably on a scouting mission prior to Wednesday’s alcohol and testosterone fuelled brawl between the two species up the park, like. Can’t say I’m particularly bothered by the outcome, both carry rabies. And fleas.

I’m missing the autumn of back home-the crisp skies, crunchy leaves, Rugby (’mon the ENG-GER-LUND!)etc etc etc. Out here I’m struggling to come to terms with the fact that it feels like summer (and a good one) in October. So, you in the woollen socks and with wood fire going, appreciate the autumn, at least you’re not sweating by 8am. Soon December will be here, you’ll drink too much, wake up, make up new resolutions and be back to gurning by the time February’s put its head around the door. Yes.

Oh, met the BBC correspondent for Nepal the other day. Didn’t offer me a job.

Deshain is currently in full swing, and goats, chickens and buffalo are being sacrificed at temples across the city. How a dead chicken manages to appease the gods (numerous) still puzzles me, but we’ll leave that for another day when someone religious does something stupid and I’m feeling mean. Dead non-bovines aside, it brings a welcome holiday from the school, which will hopefully be spent somewhere out of the haze and smog practicing Nepali.

Still no news on the promised coup, does anyone

Tags: Culture

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