Pura Vida

“We did it,” I whispered in the tent as we stared through the skylight at the shroud of stars that rocked the sky at Playa Naranjo in Santa Rosa National Park, Costa Rica. Earlier that day, we catapulted down through the boulder-bashing, river-flooded, ravine-ravishing “path” that we forged to Roca Bruja - a surfing utopia of A-frames and akaws. Never in my life have I pined for infrastructure until I was faced with the “No Road.” The road that Robert Frost neglected to write about, the road that simply does not exist.

In three spellbinding days, we forged a meaningful definition of “seclusion” near that rock. The sun danced on the horizon before diving under the covers of explosive sunsets. The stars, those stunning companions, twinkled only for us. The bioluminescence that illuminated our bodies during an erotic dip in the sea hid our flaws and let us be free.

If you surf, swim, hike, climb, camp or are any variation of an outdoor enthusiast, adventuring to Playa Naranjo may need to be added to your bucket list.

To avoid the rainy season in Costa Rica, plan your trip between November and April. Renting an SUV with significant ground clearance will be necessary to get to Playa Naranjo. If you have the means, fly into Liberia. For the budget travelers with a thirst to see this happy country, fly into San Jose and take the Pan-American highway up to Liberia.

If you’d like to wrap yourself in the blanket of the Milky Way, an overnight on the beach is a must and camping gear will be necessary. Santa Rosa National Park charges a per person/per night on the beach at a hefty 19USD. Worried about lugging your tents and tarps towards the equator? We hired an angel - Eladio of eladiosplacecr.com. Guidance to and from the beach on the “no road” is provided but come prepared with your own 4x4, as suggested. The setup and tear down of camp at 60USD/night is completed for you but you’re on your own for meals and water. Go shopping in Liberia at one of the grocery stores and make sure you buy a block of ice to keep any perishable foods cold. Sunscreen, a hat with UV protection and the occasional coating of nasal zinc will compete to be your best friends.

Surf (and life) lessons are also available from Eladio himself at 50USD for the day. Board rentals alone are 25USD. “Tico time" is not a myth. Don’t expect to shred waves until 9 or 10 am.

If you seek shade from the unfree world of all-inclusives, rebel and hold on because this will be the ride of your life.