Passport & Plate - Macanese chicken
Macau | Friday, March 6, 2015 | 3 photos
Ingredients
500g chicken thighs
1 fairly large potato, chopped into 4-5cm chunks, skin on
1 onion, finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
75g chorizo, sliced
4 tomatoes
1 tbsp turmeric
1 tbsp cayenne
200ml coconut milk
200ml fresh milk
1 tbsp cornflour, mixed with 1 tbsp water
2 bay leaves
Olive oil
How to prepare this recipe
Bring some water to the boil and cook the potato so it still retain some bite. Drain and set aside.
Heat some oil in an overproof pot and brown the chicken, making sure the skin crisps up, then set aside.
Retain the oil in the pot and add the onion and chorizo. Once the onion has softened a little and the chorizo has released some of its oil, add the garlic, turmeric and cayenne. Stir to cook for a couple more minutes.
Add the potatoes, tomatoes, coconut milk, milk, cornflour mixed with water and bayleaves, then season. Place the chicken on top keeping as much of the skin as possible above the surface of the liquid, then put in the oven to bake uncovered for 45 minutes at 180C.
Take out and serve with enough bread to soak up every last drop of sauce!
The story behind this recipe
Asia is a special part of the world for me. Moving to Hong Kong in 2009 was the change I needed to come out of my shell and grow up. My first weeks were a roller coaster of hunting out new experiences and longing for those more familiar, but a visit to Macau turned out to be a breath of fresh air. The back streets retain much of their Portuguese character, with tiled pavements, churches and European architecture. It was a haven of familiarity amongst the unknown.
On my first visit, after a meandering walk from the brash casinos, through winding streets, past lively fish markets, tranquil churches, and spectacular viewpoints to the peaceful west side, I discovered A Lorcha - a bustling little restaurant lauded for having some of the best Portuguese style food in Macau. It sits in one of the most picturesque corners of the city, nestled between the A-Ma temple and the water, with a lovely tree-shaded, tiled public space next to it.
I imagine generations visitors finding familiarity amongst the white stone walls, patterned tablecloths and low arches. Of all the dishes, it was the ‘Galinha à Portuguesa’ that stuck out for me. Despite the title, Macau’s history can be traced amongst the dish’s components. Coconut and turmeric from the spice trade which was key to the settlement’s foundation, to the roughly cleavered chicken to be gnawed from the carcass as in so many meals in China, the city’s current sovereign.
The sweetness of the coconut, creaminess of the milk, and kick of the spices make an obsessively addictive sauce that you will want to soak into every last crumb of bread. Chicken thighs are a more user friendly than the whole bird, chorizo offers some texture while providing its spice, the tomato brings freshness and the potatoes substance. While not everyone will feel the same nostalgia as I do, by sharing this dish I can share a little of my experiences with friends and family and provide a satisfying, crowd pleasing dish that has built a fan base of its own.
