Chasing the Sun

We agreed we'd get to Sounio by sunset. Everything the locals said made it clear that nothing was more beautiful than dusk on the southernmost tip of the Attica peninsula, atop the cape, beside the ruined Temple of Poseidon, where once, Aegus, king of Athens, leapt off, into the deep blue waters that now bear his name. From this spot, surrounded by sea, ‘You are left with no choice but to believe in the gods,’ my rather dramatic Greek friend had said. So naturally, we agreed to get to Sounio by sunset. The drive from the city of Athens out would take about an hour. Leave at 4, arrive at 5, plenty of time, no problem.

We were wrong.

There are two routes to Sounio, a boring one and one that winds around the coast. Take the one that winds around the coast. It offers stunning views of the sea and of teasingly close islands. If it’s a sunny day, you feel like you’re in one of those ads for ridiculously expensive perfume. If you’re travelling with photographers, there’s a good chance you’ll stop every 2 kilometres. Problem number one? We were all 'photographers'. Problem number two? Our discovery, half way to Sounio, of the quaintest little taverna, where we met Yiannis, owner and storyteller extraordinaire. His fisherman had just returned from a day on the water, and Yiannis offered us the best of his catch, straight off the net, into the pan and unto our plates. We watched him do it. The urchin tasted like the sea and Yiannis told us epic stories of ancient Greece. Go to Yainnis'. Have the urchin. Expect to be late.

Eventually, four hours behind schedule, we were on the road again. It was 20:00hrs. Sunset was 2030hrs. We wouldn't make it. Chasing the sun, we sped through the Athenian hills, following signs to Sounio, past ruins we had no time to admire. Then, with little time to spare, we were there! But there was still a hill to climb. Bellies full, spirits high, sweat rolling down our backs, we raced up the hill, until, looming in front of us, the temple of Poseidon.

It was 8.28pm. 2 minutes.

I stood in front of Poseidon's temple, Aegan sea surrounding me, watching the blazing Mediterranean sun sink, first below silhouetted Greek islands, then below the waves. The sky was awash with blues and reds, purples and golds. I almost forgot to take a photo. I was tired, sweaty and had a stitch in my belly. I wouldn't have had it any other way.

My rather dramatic Greek friend was spot on. With views like this, it’s no wonder the Greeks have so many gods.