What's the fuss about? at 29, I'm just starting my traveling career. first trip: Sudan

It has been over a year since the peace deal was signed between the Northern Sudanese government and the SPLA in the south, and with 1/3 of the government seats now reserved for southern representatives, the peace seems to be holding. I have wanted to see the country for years; after hearing exotic tales of tiny villages shaded by mango trees and surrounded by neurotic water buffalo in the south, and dusty, desperate Khartoum, I had to see for myself. My best friend is from there too. He and I have long planned a trip back to his roots: a tiny village in the south called Kajo Kaji. Over the past six years he had twice returned to the country, but found it too dangerous to travel south of Khartoum, but this time, with the shooting largely stopped, we had a chance. I begged some time off work, and with everyone around me giving dire warnings or gasping in awe of my willingness to put myself in harms way, I embarked on the process of getting my visa, finding a reasonably priced ticket, etc. in following articles I’ll describe my experiences and a few tips that might help the next person. The trip was an adventure in a country not used to tourists, I felt privileged to see the south as it begins to rebuild from war. Southern Sudan is a beautiful place, and I would predict that if the peace holds, it will become a very nice and welcoming place for travelers in a few short years. Khartoum is Khartoum: dirty, chaotic, broken, desperate and absolutely beautiful in some ways. It was an amazing way to start off a traveling career, one I’d recommend to anyone willing to tackle the trouble of getting there and the hassles of being there.. Obtaining a visa For an ex-pat the process of obtaining a visa is an easy one; simply fill out a one-page form and mail it with $50 to the embassy in DC. For me, the process was a little more complicated, and proved exasperating due to my 6 week timeline. Besides the form and a money order for $150 mailed to DC, you are required to have a sponsor in Sudan submit paperwork at the foreign affairs office there. it didn’t mention this part on the website, so it caught me off guard, and fortunately the courteous people at the DC embassy called on receipt of my paperwork to ask if my sponsor had submitted paperwork yet. After this process had been completed, I anxiously awaited the return of my documents. After a week of daily calls to the embassy to check if the notification of visa approval had arrived (I knew it had been approved and even had the approval number from my sponsor), I realized something was wrong. With a little asking around and a trip by my sponsor to the foreign affairs office, we found the papers had been sent to the branch-office in New York….and that office was closed for two weeks for the back-to-back Christmas and Adha Eid holidays! Countless calls, messages, and even getting the ambassador involved could not stir anyone to verify my approval and send me my passport! I was trying to complete paperwork for travel on the 1st of January, so even though I started the process a full month before the holidays, I ended up cooling my heels in Seattle for an entire week riding my friend’s Ninja in the ice and rain: he was in Sudan without me damn it! Note: NEVER buy a non-changeable non-refundable bargain ticket before you are absolutely certain of your travel date! I learned that lesson to the painful tune of $1500 and several sleepless nights! Also, do not try to travel without the visa. You will be detained. Apparently there is a way to process for a visa on arrival, but nobody seemed to know enough about it to make it happen. Best to process early, and travel knowing you have the visa in hand.