Alex in Wanderlust

In Miami, one particular road slices across the city, its name transforming from Calle Ocho in the east to Tamiami Trail in the west. Same road, different identities. Most people have heard how wild it gets on the beaches, but if you want to experience some actual wild life, you have to head west.
The Shark Valley Visitor’s Center is located 25 miles west of the Florida Turnpike. The first time I arrived at the gate, I was greeted by a tall park ranger. His thin, aquiline features made it impossible to see him as anything other than a khaki-clad wading bird of some sort, like an environmentally aware egret with a nametag that fittingly read “Bill”. He ducked through the window of the air conditioned hut and handed me a map. “Tram tours start every hour on the hour,” he said, “and you can rent bikes at the welcome center.”
When deciding whether to bike the 15 mile loop or take the guided tram, there a few things to consider. The first is time: the tram ride takes about 2 hours, while biking takes about 4. Secondly, tours are led by park-trained naturalists who offer insight into the ecosystem and point out some of the wildlife that visitors might otherwise miss. If you choose to bike, you’ll miss out on the information, but you can admire the sawgrass prairies at your discretion. Lastly, be sure to dress for the heat and bring lots of water and sunscreen, especially if you want to bike.
I chose to bike and was surprised as a distant speedbump moved. I blinked hard, shielding my eyes from the sun as a gator crawled off the trail. It slipped into the grassy water, adding to the susurrus that was suddenly everywhere. That’s when I felt a palpable connection with the Everglades. The vibrant green was in my nose, strong and primal, the wet grass drying in the hot sun. Trees and brush swayed all around me, tickling the sky with long leaves and fronds.
Regardless of which you choose, the highlight of the loop lies at the midway point. The Shark Valley observation tower spirals into the sky like a futuristic 70’s spaceship. The 45 foot deck gives visitors a 360 degree view the Everglades and an unbroken line of sight extending for 20 miles.
I particularly enjoyed a bird’s eye view of a gator silently carving S’s in the water below. From any other perspective, he would have been invisible, his stealthy instincts honed by millennia of practice, his body designed to be a predatory prodigy. But from 45 feet up, he can’t hide anything from me.