Kia Ora, I am currently sitting in a hut in the shadow of Mt. Ruapehu. It's been almost 3 weeks since I returned to the north island. I stayed in Wellington with some great friends when I got to town. It was the same spot I described my last time in "Welly". I tramped up the west coast and then switched over to the east coast. My Hawks Bay and East Cape stories will have to wait for now.
Again I wanted to write some good stories but I let it go too long. I want this to be my farewell to the south island. It is a much different scene from the north island. From its remote rugged coasts to snow capped mountains, the kiwi spirt does not change. So I will reflect on my experiences on Waka Te Kupe.
My time in Queenstown was good. I passed through many times and each time was a new adventure. I found Queenstown to be a town of action but unfortunately lacking real soul. It was full of travelers and tourists, however the only local I knew was pretty cool. I preferred the small village of Glenorchy, because it lacked all the flash and shine of Queenstown, but was the gateway to many great hikes. A small town where nice people live. I only wish I could have hiked the Ernslaw Burn and stayed at the base of the glacier. Maybe next time.
Invercargill and Stewart Island were surprising. I am glad I went there and encourage all kiwis to visit Stewart Island once. The track I hiked was the only great walk I bagged on my trip. It can be a nice tropical island when the weather is right. I met some great hikers out on that trail. I hope they are still having fun. If I were to do it again I would fly standby back to the mainland, it costs the same as the ferry but you get to do a flyover. The Catlins were nice but I wish I had been acclimated to the weather and spent some time in that rainforest. I went to Dunedin instead.
My favorite city by far was Dunedin. Not only did I get to see a rugby match but I also saw some great live music. Having friends in town did not hurt either. It's an old Scottish town with a large university, it has some range. The Otago region is special, there are rivers and streams I will have to return to and explore. The best time was the wine and food festival, what a treat.
The west coast! Wow! I was running from the first snow, so I did not get a chance to explore the hikes along the Haast pass, but the west coast was worth it. I had some interesting times out there. The first beach I came to could have swept me out to sea. That was my warning about the wild west. My botched trip to horseshoe flat where I had frozen boots and a steamy fire taught me a stern lesson, mother nature plays for keeps. The best spot in all the west coast is Welcome flat/Copland track. Mellow hike in and hot pools to boot, just watch out for the naked moms! The glaciers, mountains, weather and remoteness make the west coast folk.... Staunch is the best I could come up with. Hard working with a tough putter shell, they can reveal themselves to be awesome down home folk. That is if you don't get intimidated by their, charm.
Golden Bay and Nelson were good to me even if the weather was not. I hit both in the middle of off season so I won't judge too harshly. If I had gotten there sooner I would have found something to complain about any way. Defiantly a great vacation spot and good fishing. Both times I tried to hike the Nelson Lakes trails I got flooded out, I took the hint. Next time Nelson lakes, next time. Same with Queen Charleotte Track. If I had only known how many bike trails. I might have taken my buddy Gabb's advice and gotten a mtn bike. It was crap weather anyway, but I still liked what I got to see.
My last night down that way was spent in Cow Shed Bay at a DoC campsite. I was alone on a quiet glassy bay. I was able to cook supper by moon and starlight. That last night warmed my heart and helped to form a template for the remainder of my trip. I was very lucky to see all that I did get to see and experience the life that comes with the freedom of an open schedule. The south was wild and crazy, and that's the way I liked it.
So, now I'm on the north island. It's still winter and I am hiking the round the mountain track, around Mt. Ruapehu. There will be a catch up story in a few days and then a separate story about this last adventure in NZ. I will tease you with this. I have been snow/iced in at least one day. Every day has brought new challenges and landscapes. I am being extra careful, but wow is this crazy!
I will be flying back in less than 2 weeks. I am sad to close this chapter of my life but anticipating a fun next adventure. I know it's hot in the states but it's still cold and rainy here so I'll try to bring some back if the TSA will let it through. Football starts soon and the Olympics are over. It was fun watching the Games from another country. Most of the coverage was of NZ teams but the highlight reels were of team USA. Smile at a stranger today and be happy. We are all so lucky to be who we have become. Thank you for reading this, I have not been the best reporter, but I get lots of encouragement from y'all. Peace, Love, and Pura Vida
