Off the beaten track

“This is my childhood home. I grew up here and now I live here with my father, mother, wife and two small children; one boy and one girl.” I sit beside Rakeesh and slowly put together the pieces of his life story as I sip on a soothing cup of Masala tea.

It is our last day in India. We left more than the paved road behind us as we veered onto the dirt path. The tires of the car propelled swirling dirt into the air; gust after gust of disorder. As we came to a halt and emerged from the blasting air-conditioned car, the dry, cindery dust blew into my eyes and down my throat. I could feel it: something was going to happen.

Locals quickly swarmed around us and welcomed Rakeesh with smiles and warm embraces; I sense it has been a while since he has been home. Trailing blindly behind through the village, we passed scattered hut-like homes, whose colorful exterior once vibrant and lively now stood faded and worn. Crinkled KitKat and Bubblegum wrappers, half-submerged in the sand startled me. They stood out like foreign objects from a far-off world.

Suddenly two figures appeared in the distance. They were draped from head to toe in coloured saris adorned with sequence that glistened and danced in the sunlight. Our surroundings slowly faded away in their presence.

Rakeesh introduced them as his wife and mother. Although only “hellos” were exchanged, their warmth and kindness needed no words. Stopped in front of a small hut, it took me a few moments to realize this was his home. In it there was little to be found: a tile floor, a bed and hanging clothes across the wall. No sign of the modern world exists here.

Rakeesh continues: “I am the only who works outside of the village in my family. My mother and wife sell our milk and butter in the market.” It suddenly dawns on me. We have spent the last seven days with Rakeesh, yet I knew virtually nothing about his life.

As we sat under the beating sun listening to his story, I no longer felt like a mere tourist looking in. Rakeesh brought us into his world and, though he may not know it, this unexpected detour has left a lasting imprint on my life.