Sabaideeeee!! I'm writing this in Luang Prabang, Laos (will fill you in on it's amazingness soon!) but just had my first "bummer" moment of the trip. Found out I can't obtain a visa on arrival into Myanmar (Burma) as they have elections (elections? bah yeah right) so they are attempting to limit the number of non-Burmese entering the country. Guess they don't want people to know the dodgy happenings of the country, bit late for that. Anyway I was really excited to go as I've heard it's beautiful and the people are great...some travellers I'd met today said they had a blast and it was the safest country they've been! Damn...will have to revise and look up some new possible destinations! Any recommendations???
Anyway back to the trip that is and has been.
I was waiting at our hotel in Hanoi for my taxi to the train station. The funny little vietnamese guy I'd booked the tour with met me there and we jumped in a taxi. He got my ticket organised and showed me to my cabin and "soft-sleeper". He went over everything 10 times...very thorough, and he was very sweet so I felt the need to tip him! Three other people settled into the same cabin and the trip began with some Malaysian guy playing asian pop on his phone...then snoring loudly and leaving his light on. It was an ok ride...slept on and off. The train had a few stops so came to a sudden halt at times. Arrived at Lao Cai station around 5am. There was a driver waiting for me with my name printed on a piece of paper. Even at 5am, pitch black outside, there were people going around to the minivans asking you to buy flashlights, coffee, or maps of Sapa. Hardworkers these Vietnamese! There were a (possible?) couple from Melbourne and another girl going to the same hotel. The drive through the mountains was stunning. It was raining slightly and there was a morning mist about which added to the magic. Then the magic dissipated when we came across a build-up of traffic. There was a small landslide ahead that was blocking the road!!!! After a few phonecalls the driver told us to grab our bags and trek through the mud to a car waiting on the other side! Wet weather gear came out and I was set. Wasn't a bad walk over but my foot did slip at one point and I was mud-logged. Fun really. Finally made it to the hotel and the Hmong women descended upon the car before we had even made it out!! They had run down the hill upon spotting us and bombarded us with the usual "where you from?" "what your name" etc etc. We legged it up the steps (I wasn't in the mood for bargaining or buying at 7am) and we were shown to our rooms. I went upstairs for the included breakfast...banana pancakes with coffee, juice and a piece of bread with butter and jam. Went back to the room and rested up before meeting my guide.
I went to the lobby at 1:30pm and my guide was there. A gorgeous, tiny little local Hmong girl of 16 years old!!! Think her name was Liang. We began our walk to the Cat Cat falls and an older Hmong lady tagged along. After answering some of her questions she came out with "you buy from me now so I can go back to hotel". So I felt obliged!! Just bought a bag and said I would consider some jewellery later. After shaking her off (and after an expensive purchase!) Liang and I continued on foot. We chatted all the way, her English was quite good but she was very softly spoken. Turns out the children go to school there a few days a week, and only for half days. The rest they are expected to help at home and on the farm. Liang's older sister was now married and so she was responsible for looking after her two younger siblings...as well as bringing in a small income from doing tours. It was amazing, I told her I didn't even know what I was doing at sxiteen but I was sure I was much lazier than she!! The differences between our upbringings was very interesting. But she seemed very happy. We saw the relatively unimpressive waterfalls and tiny village. She showed me into a Hmong house and illustrated how they dye their hemp clothing with indigo dye for the Black Hmong tribe. Also how they dry corn and pound their rice. It was drizzling a little at this point but I was still so hot from walking around. At the end I refused a motorbike ride back as I wanted to walk longer and take it all in. So we walked uphill and stopped for a drink and some green-tea chewing gum! The view was fantastic. Photos just didn't capture the moment so I'm sorry everyone but you're going to have to go their yourselves for the real experience....I'll still show you the photos of course!!
Back at the hotel the older Hmong lady was waiting for me so I bought some bracelets. I retreated back to my room because these Hmong ladies are ruthless. They just walk alongside you and wait until you cave! Eventually I headed out, passed through some smelly markets and walked down the main street. Had a pizza at a place recommended by the lonely planet...which wasn't too bad but pretty much all cheese!! Back at the hotel I bumped into the Melbourne couple and chatted for a bit before I headed back to bed and watched some MTV (ha ha...never watched it before in my life but it seems to be my link to the western world) and fell asleep after watching a really awesome movie "Ghosts of girlfriends past". It was terrible in case you didn't note the sarcasm.
The next morning I was up at 7:30 for breakfast...banana pancakes again- why ruin a good thing? ... then I had to pack and check-out. Liang met me at 9:30 and we headed off for a bigger trek. A stop-off at the ATM and then I realised I had another Hmong tag-along. Liang did warn me that they would help me with my trek and ask me to buy stuff from them. It was a longer walk and not raining so it was really nice. Awesome view of the rice terraces and smaller towns in the valley. I stocked-up on water and we headed down the valley. There were some really steep places and as it had rained the day before some areas were very muddy and slippery. I made it down with the help of the Hmong lady but it started to rain lightly which wasn't bad just annoying as it made the trek a bit more difficult. I was glad for my purchase of fake converse shoes in Hanoi!! It warmed-up as we got further down into the valley. We stopped for lunch and I had fried rice with a drink. Then I entered into heavy bargainings with the Hmong lady. Still felt jipped and disliked feeling "obliged" to buy from her just because she grabbed my hand offering help down the hill. I'm quite a stubborn person and usually refuse help when it's offered so that angered me a little more!! But then the items she was selling were all made by her hand and she was trying to make a living so I thought what the hell. It's also a way to remember the Hmong ladies and Liang. We were the first group there and Liang said I was doing the trek very quickly...I laughed it off as I was under the impression I was moving at a snails pace compared to her tiny limber legs! But then the other tourists filed in with their tag-along Homng ladies!!! Very funny to see western men with these women half their size jogging next to them. Everyone else seemed to be covered in mud from falling so I was pretty pleased with myself ha ha!! After lunch we walked into the towns and had a look around. This was really rural vietnam. Water buffalos, chickens, ducks and dogs roaming everywhere. There were soem little stalls selling the most intricate stone-carvings...I was annoyed I didn't take out more money as I was dry. Ah well they'd be heavy to carry anyway. At the time purchasing these things seems like a good idea but then you get home and don't half wonder if it just looks like something from Things or Red dot!! But I guess it's the memories that come with the souvenirs. Eventually we were picked up by a motorbike and Liang and I climbed on and the 3-person heavy (possible 125cc?) bike sped through the mountains. It was the scariest but most thrilling ride I have ever been on! The driver was a pro at dodging rocks and navigating through small streams and potholes. That's saying something because I consider Dad and Tim pretty amazing riders. Still I crossed my fingers along the way and made it back to the hotel in one piece!! I said goodbye to Liang, she was such an amazing girl I was so glad to meet her and hear her perspective on life. I had time to kill before the bus and finally when it arrived we were packed in like sardines. Then it was like deja vu. There was a bank-up of traffic and we discovered a landslide had blocked the road. I was stressed this time as I had to be on the train at 7 and it was approaching 6. It was so crazy there were trucks, vans, bikes and scooters everywhere. Finally they cleared the way but it was an abslute bum-fight to get though and our driver manouvered his way through pretty cheekily but I was very grateful!! We got to Lao Cai and stopped for something to eat (noodles and veg for $1.50) and I stocked-up on peanut butter and chocolate oreos. Found my "berth" on the train and set myself up for the night. I shared the cabin with three other vietnamese who were on their mobiles intermittently throughout the night. Didn't sleep much this time. I had my bag with my valuables at my head and semi-consciously groped around for it just to check it was there!!! Got into Hanoi at 4am, much earlier than expected and I jumped off in search of a taxi. BAH! you don't have to look for them...they find you. I was told to go for Mailinh taxis but a driver approached me and quoted $25US which I thought was damn expensive!! But then it was an hour drive to the airport. I bargained him down to $22. It was a dark ride to the airport but I got there, waited to check-in. Did so and then boarded my flight to Luang Prabang baby!!!!! More to follow :)
Love to all! Wish you could see all this with me xx
