Iranian Sweetness

"But be careful with him. Where he comes from they are all gay." I laughed politely. The Mullah, the Muslim counterpart to a priest, in the main mosque of Isfahan in Central Iran smiled. Thankfully, I had read about the Persian inside joke that the city of Qazvin is overrun by gays in my LP guide book and therefore could detect the non-seriousness. This moment is branded in my memory as it stands for several things that exemplify the cut-off country for me. First, humour can connect people from very distant places and cultures. The Muslim intellectual simply told a bad joke. Immediately, I felt the wall that I had constructed towards the beardy and turban-wearing "other" crumbling. We laughed, then we talked. What is it like to live in Isfahan? Why does one wear a black and the other a white turban? "Well, my family is related to the prophet Muhammad. His isn't, that's why I'm more important." Again he laughs in this sarcastic tone I have quickly learnt to appreciate. He points to Milad who originates from Qazvin and had earlier invited our little travel group of three into his life. The Mullah asks if we are received well? No sarcasm. Second, Iranians are hospitable to an extent it makes you feel uncomfortable. Not many foreigners make it into the country - for political reasons. Yet, every person arriving is embraced by the people like nowhere else. Often you find yourself in one of the Iranian spacey living rooms. You sit on one of the large ornamented carpets and nibble on a local delicacy such as fruit, nuts and cucumbers. The discussions are very friendly and opened. I recall one elderly man stating: "It is good that you young folks come and see the world as it is. But why can't my son go and visit you in Europe?" I had no answer. Third, I learnt that our world is not fair and even. It is true that most Iranian men cannot leave the country until their mid-twenties because of obligatory military service. And even then, it is improbable to champion the task of receiving visa. I am wondering, how the intelligent, humorous and hospitable people I have met can keep an open mind while being unwanted in the world. It is impossible to describe Iran in words and impressions and wisdom acquired, but it is worth a try. This way, hopefully we will be welcoming the people in our ever smaller world with less prejudice and more humanity. In the end, we firmly shook the mullah's hand and he gave us candy. It was extraordinarily picky, but still tasted sweet.