Second day:
My morning trip to the bathroom was interesting. No plumbing, just a room on the same level (second floor), with a squat toilet and a pipe draining somewhere to the outside. You flush by scooping up some water from the bucket. Hey, but I was lucky I didn't have to go outside. I probably would have been trampled by cows! Ama made us the most amazing breakfast. We had omlets, and red rice with seasonings that included spring onion, cilantro and chilis. It was delicious! Through my interpreter, I told Ama what a great cook she was and how much I enjoyed the visit. Through cow pastures and a monestary, we headed back to the car..
The drive into the Bumthang region had us sharing the road with cows, horses, yaks, farmers, and local villagers. We even encountered a group of monkeys hanging out along the roadside looking for handouts. We didn't give them any. Along this drive, and once into town, I noticed people staring at me. They still consider tourists an oddity, and while walking around the town of Jakar, I was pretty much the only foreigner around. I often heard them say, "chillup" to each other as I passed by, which means tourist. The young school children would run up to me and say "hello", smile and practice English by asking questions. They are adorable, dressed in their school uniforms, happily trekking to and from school. Jakar is the cultural heart of the country, where things haven't changed much. Yes, it has an airport now for domestic flights twice a day, but as I walked the 1 kilometer from town to my hotel, I walked with just as many cattle as people. My hotel room is very nice, only a few years old. It is large with huge traditional style windows, pine paneling, and the traditional colorful carvings. And when I looked out my window, there was a cow munching, about a foot away! Just about everything is next to a farm.
There are many old monestaries here. We visited about five of them. In one, I got a lovely photo of young monks outside the temple, horsing around. Boys will be boys! In another, the monks were doing an offering ceremony. There were large vats of rice, and huge homemade cookies in the temple while the monks were chanting. To hear the monks chanting is a moving experience. I asked where the food goes after the offering. They share it with the community.
There were 2 farmhouse visits today. One was for lunch, where we were served local fare including ara (hootch). The other was the home where my guide grew up. His sister lives there with her family. I was very honored to be invited over for tea. We sat on the floor in the kitchen next to the bukhari (metal wood stove used for heating and cooking). Sherab, my guide, interpreted since his sister doesn't speak English. She has cattle, as do most of the villagers. It's a simple life. I have been so priveledged to witness this culture.
Tomorrow we have a 7 hour drive back towards Thimphu. Three cheers for my driver! It takes a lot of patience and skill to maneuver these roads. I expect more stares as this 'chillup' heads back.
