I don't know whether I have a guilty face or an innocent face, but you can almost guarantee I'll get stopped for additional security checks at an airport. Leaving Australia was no exception: first of all I got selected for additional explosives screening (scanning and frisk), then on reaching New Zealand I was randomly picked for additional biosecurity checks so my bag was searched, foodstuffs verified and shoes checked for mud! Honestly, I think if I wore a black balaclava with cut-out eye-holes I'd be picked less!!
Once I did get here though all was ok and I took a few days in Auckland to see the city and decide where I'd head first. Auckland itself is a nice enough city but it didn't grab me as a great place to be. I did my usual trick of walking lots to get the feel of the place and the best word I can use to describe it is hilly! Auckland is built, so I discovered, around 49 volcanoes (admittedly some now levelled) but the city layout is definitely testament to their existance. I decided I'd go up the Skytower - the tallest tower in the Southern Hemisphere. Ushered into the lift to climb the 182metres to the main observation deck, only then did I realise the lift door was glass fronted. Taken aback by the buildings flying by as I sped up, I looked down only to discover it was glass floored aswell! I think I said a very naughty word - its just as well I was on my own! Fortunately the floor did have a solid surround to it so I stared at the corner until reaching the main deck. Earlier cloud was clearing so it was a fine view out over the city and harbour and gave me a better appreciation of the layout of the city. Its very hilly and undulating so on ground level I'd lost sight of the fact that there was so buch outwith the immediate vicinity of the centre. I tried my best to gather my courage and walk on the glass floor but couldn't: holding on to the handrail and putting one foot on was the best I could manage - wimp I know, but at least I tried. The tower is supposed to be able to withstand 200kmh winds, swaying only 1 metre at the top, and to survive an earthquake measuring 8 on the Richter scale but I was happy enough not to be testing the theory out. Definitely giving the skywalk or bungee options a miss, and back on the ground I took a bus to Mt Eden, home to a couple of extinct volcanoes and the highest land point in the city. On the way I met someone else from the hostel and got chatting, but suddenly looking up we realised we'd missed our stop. Fortunately the nice bus driver stopped for us and got us transferred to a bus going back whence we'd come and got it to drop us off at the appropriate place. I'd expected a mountain but its just 196m high. Climbing the path through some attractive parkland we reached the summit where the craters were still very obvious and the surrounding views were stunning. The sea looked lovely and blue and the city stretched way out in all directions. The many bays were dotted with little islands stretching off into the distant haze and lots of yachts were making the most of the fine weather.
With more of a feel for the place now, and with a lovely sunny day I walked along the shoreside path to Mission Beach. On the way I passed a brilliant outdoor pool complex called the Parnell Baths. It was crowded with folk and the sound of the laughter and chatter could be heard from afar. Fraser I just imagined you, Alexander and Andrew going wild there: there were childrens pools, jacuzzi, laned swimming pool, inflatable toys, leisure pool, water based playpark loungers and water spouts. I reckon you three would never leave once you got inside! As I carried on I admired the wonderful Pohutukawa trees lining the path. They are commonly known as New Zealand Christmas trees and the crimson flowers were just coming out and were lovely against the dark green foliage. The flowers are made up of hundreds of little fronds with a golden tip to each one so they really do look like christmas baubles twinkling in the sun. Absolutely beautiful. The azure blue sky ensured the were looking their best too. Following the path round the coast for ages dodging the many joggers and cyclists I finally reached Mission Bay. It really wasn't for me though. It was a nice enough spot, but the beach was packed with folk jostling for space, the sand was much more gitty than I've become accustommed to, and the posers out wanting to be seen were strutting their stuff along the esplanade. The road was lined with nice looking cafes and eateries but the streets were jam-packed with cars: families and boy-racers both. Much more to my taste was the village of Devenport just a short ferry ride across the harbour. It had lovely boutique crafty shops and cafes for browsing round and a lovely undulating layout as I walked round the houses and up to another volcanoe site. There were some nice houses with beautifully planted gardens - blooms of all colours peeking over walls or through fences - and lots of dogs and cats sitting guarding their gardens. The locals all seemed very friendly and chatty too - everyone exchanging pleasantaries in the passing. A trip round the museum rounded off my visit to Auckland. It was ok but the lighting wasn't great - it was either shining right in my eyes or was so dark I had difficulty reading about the exhibits. I did think of you though Fraser as there was a bit where you went into a house and there was the simulation of a volcano erupting out in the bay - I was thinking of you and your experience at dynamic earth!
Leaving the city and heading to the Northland area (for the uninitiated that's the long thin bit at the top of the North Island!) my first stop was in Whangarei - it was a random pick for somewhere to stop but I really enjoyed my short visit. The hostel was nice and comfy, if up a very steep hill to get there (which seemed even longer and steeper carrying my backpack up on a hot sunny morning), the company there was good and the town itself had more to offer than I first envisaged. Most of my time was taken up exploring some of the many walks around the parks and reserves on the outskirts of the city. Walking alongside a gently flowing river, through native woodlands and listening to the birds and insects amongst the trees was a lovely way to spend time. On one side of the river was some nice green grassland and picnic benches and several young kids were there with parents or grandparents feeding the ducks which were splashing around and the kids' giggling was infectious drifting across the water. On our side of the river the aroma from the trees was lovely and fresh, as was the air - much less close and stifling than in the town itself. It was a lovely colourful walk with flowers and bushes aswell as the trees and ferns. A type of umbrella looking fern tree seemed most common: a thin tall straight trunk with a flat fronded canopy like a parasol protecting us from the sun. Following the winding course of the river the trail continued through some Kauri trees (but more about them later on my travels) up to a 24 meter high waterfall. There was no great torrent of water just a gentle cascade but after seeing so few ,if any, waterfalls over the last months it was nice to see. The sheer rock faces and greenery from the trees ferns and moss made an attractive sight. On the way there and back we met lots of local people out walking too and it was noticable how everyone was so friendly and ready to exchange greetings and pleasantaries in the passing. After a quick wander round the pleasant town basin and marina, another walk took me up a steep hillside with a little burn cascading down the hill to the lookout at the top. The views were tremendous. It stretched over the forest up to Whangarei Heads at the rivermouth, and over the city to the hills beyond on two other sides and more forrest behind. I hadn't appreciated how big the city was until that point. At night DJ, one of the regular visitors at the hostel, took several of us out to see the glow worms. There were scores of them all along the banking and on the walls of a little cave and behind a wooden staircase heading up the hill track. It was like little stars shining in the distance, and when you looked closely at them they were actually like little threaded beads - only about 2-3 cm in length but hanging like mini chandaliers. Quite beautiful and a super way to round off a very enjoyable visit to Whangarei.
Next stop was Paihia on the Bay of Island (and no, Val and mum, it's not pronounced "pee higher" - try Pie-he-a!!) and arriving on an overcast day it probably didn't look its best but with the sea, islands aplenty, beaches and the historic Waitangi Treaty House and grounds it was easy to see its charms. Booked onto a day trip to Cape Reinga (on the northenmost finger of land in NZ) we had our first stop of the day at Puketi Kauri forest and the Manginaninga boardwalk. I'll explain a bit more about Kauris when getting to Hokianga, but suffice to say the ones here were reckoned to be over 1000 years old, huge, and interspersed with lots of ferns it made a pleasant walk. We hadn't long set off again when there was an enormous bang then a series of clatters and thumping giving everyone a shock. The driver got out to investigate and found the inner left rear tyre had well and truly blown. We limped down to the nearby pretty bayside town of Taipa and had morning tea there while waiting for the tyre repair people to come. Fortunately they didn't take long in arriving and made quick work of changing the tyre. (Realising its a tubeless tyre it did make we wonder, though, what do kids use for beach playthings now? I seem to remember spending hours in the sea with big inner tubes as pontoons and swimming toy!) Anyway, we were soon on our way and passed through lovely rolling green countryside with lots of sheep and dairy farming, some citrus growing and even a winery or two -although we sped past them without stopping, mores the pity! Our lunch stop was at Tapotupotu bay. We descended down a steep twisty gravel road from the hill-tops to the bay and it was very pretty: bordered by green grass and hills the sandy beach was edged at each end by rocky headland and waves rolling in relatively gently. I had a paddle but the water was too cold for swimming and Dice, our driver, needn't have bothered with his warning of strong currents and undertows as no-one went past calf deep! Climbing back out of the bay after lunch we turned for Cape Reinga. Credited as being the most northerly place in New Zealand (although technically that honour should go to a cape a little further round the bay) it is here that the Pacific Ocean meets the Tasman Sea. A bit of an outline was visible in the water but not as distinctly as its meant to be on stormier days - the weather was just too nice. Bape Reinga is a sacred place for the Maori, being the place that all spirits make their way to before departing the country and this world. Currently Highway 1 which takes you there is a gravel track for the last 20km or so, but is very much a construction site at the moment. Its in the process of being upgraded to sealed road so is even more rutted, gravelly and muddy just now. The track down to the lighthouse has already been upgraded and I can only imagine the area becoming moredeveloped as a result of the "improvements" and losing some of its current charm and mystique. I already wonder, Gus and Lou, whether you would recognise it from your visit. Moving on though, we turned down the Te Paki Quicksand stream and had a splashing ride to some huge sand dunes. Unloading body boards from the bus we made the trek up the dunes - a tiring climb with the soft sand underfoot shifting with every step. Peching our way to the top in a long crocodile though we were free to descend. Lying on the board lifting its nose slightly to prevent me ending up nose-first in the sand I set off. It was fantastic. Racing down the hill with that almost out of control sledging type exhiliration and not the cold that accompanies the snow, just the warmth of the sun was fantastic. A slight dig of your big toe into the sand helps steering or breaking and I loved it. Definitely worth the climb up the dune, I made my way back up the hill as fast as I had breath for and had another go! Once everyone who wanted had had a few shots we packed up the boards and carried on down the stream and out onto 90 Mile Beach. A sand highway its actually only about 100km long, but what's in a name. With a 100kmh speed limit we were able to race down the beach stopping just to take a few photos and have a paddle in the Tasman Sea. Two paddles in two differet seas on two different coasts of New Zealand in one day - nod bad going! The beach highway was quite wide, although at high tide the sea reaches right up to the sand cliffs bordering it, completely submerging the "road" and claiming a few vehicles over the years from travellers who'd not paid heed to the tides, as we could see from a couple of old wrecks along the way. The road itself was smoother than I anticipated with shells dotting it like a constellation of stars in places. Although there were one or two people fishing, a couple of cars parked up and one land-yacht rigging up as we passed, there didn't seem to be much traffic and I couldn't help comparing it to Fraser Island. 90 Mile Beach is , I think, straighter, wider, flatter and with fewer creeks, but much faster to travel on. Going virtually the full length of the beach we left it and pulled into a Kauri woodworking workshop. There were some beautiful items and pieces of furniture on display. One dining table in particular took my fancy, but I wasn't too disappointed that it wouldn't pack into a rucksack when I saw how many thousands of dollars it cost!! And with that it was back to Paihia after a super day out.
Next up for me was a day on the water. We spent the day cruising the bay round some of the little islands and wildlife spotting getting bits of commentary as and when something interesting came up. First pause was to watch some Blue Penguins as they're called in NZ (the Lttle Penguins or Fairy Penguins as I knew them in Oz). Swimming about they are far more agile and confident than they were on land. We also saw a huge flock of Shearwaters resting- also called Muttonbirds they rarely vist land, staying at sea for most of their lives. We then caught up with a pod of bottlenose dolphins including a mother with a young calf. Rather than playing in the boat's bow wave or wake however, they were in feeding mode jumping and diving spectacularly in pursuit of fish. Patrolling some of the islands we passed Oihi Bay where early christian missionaries had set up a church and tried unsuccessfully to convert Maoris to christianity, and Moturoa Island which gave the tour I was on its name. Moturoa is the second largest island in the bay and in days gone by a boat would call to swap empty for full milk urns from the farmers. Over the years tourists began to join "The Cream Run" to ejoy the sail and scenery. Gradually farm numbers declined, but tourist numbers continued to grow, and now there are no farms -just tourists. Next stop for us was Piercy island (Motukokako) and the hole in the rock that it is known for. The previous islands we'd passed had been primarily green with the wonderful red flowered Pohutakawa trees sprouting fron the land in all directions. Piercy Island, just off Cape Brett where a lighthouse sits perched, forms a guard between the bay and the stormier South Pacific. Battered by more severe weather and seas it is largely devoid of vegetation and stands a towering mass of 478 feet of rock. Whereas the water had been relatively calm, if a bit grey, up until then, around "the hole" it was rough with a huge swell. The waves crashed foaming white against the rock contrasting with the dark green sea below the crests. Too stormy to risk taking the boat through the small gap today, we lurched round about it to take some photos before returning to the leeward side for shelter. Leaving it behind then we headed up to Urupukapuka Island for our lunch break. This is the largest island in the bay at c520 hectares and has many coves and beaches which local people, boaties and tourists can enjoy. We docked in Otehi bay. It was an idyllic place and on a super sunny day would be stunningly beautiful. Quiet, with ferns and Pohutakawa gracing the grassy expanse leading down to the sandy sheltered bay it was lovely. Climbing the hill behind, a lookout point gave great views up and down the Bay of Islands. A super spot for a walk it was soon time to reboard and we cruised out and round past Roberton Island, the scene of a triple killing in 1841 which led to the perpetrator becoming the first New Zealander to be hung (NZ having only officially come into existance in 1840). On our way back to shore we met up with another large pod of dolphin, and some passengers were allowed into the water to swim with them. With a strong current and reasonable waves it was hard going for the snorkellers, not to mention cold, and it took them several attempts to let them have any real sight of the dolphins around them. Those of us on deck got a far better view, and were left to shout (helpfully?) to the swimmers "behind you" "below you" "swim fast, quick" etc to give them any clues as to where to go or look! I think I am glad I stayed on board and didn't pay for the priveledge of getting cold, being shouted at and having a relatively mediocre view of Flipper and friends. Swimmers back on board we started back to Paihia. I opted to disembark at Russell however. Its the oldest town in NZ and undoubtedly pretty and a nice place to amble around. I made the scenic climb up the hillside past some lovely big houses to the summit of Flagstaff hill and the site of the original flag of the newly formed New Zealand. Following disagreements over the treaty the wooden flagpole was chopped down 4 times by a Maori chief - Hone Heke - before a form of truce was reached. Sitting at he top I was joined by an Irishman who started blethering but then never stopped to draw breath let alone to shut up. It was lucky the ferry back to Paihia is a frequent service as I watched one come and go before he even paused long enough for me to jump in , make my excuses and go. I couldn't believe it when I took my seat on the ferry back only for him to reappear and take the seat next to me. I know he was probably just lonely, but I think I could tell you all about his past holidays and his New Zealand cousins Winnie, Malcolm and Annie! I naughtily laughed to myself at one point though when he said he'd turned up unexpectedly to visit Winnie and her husband and had to knock 3 times before they came to the door as they thought it was Jehovah's Witnesses - I bet they knew damn fine it was him and were hoping he'd leave them in peace!! However, even allowing for him and his blethers it was another good day out.
My other highlight in Paihia was my visit to the Waitangi Treaty House. First up on getting there was a cultural show. With one of our number selected as honorary "chief" he was met with the traditional greeting and Haka. Once a leaf thrown at his feet was picked up to show we came in peace, we could take to our seats and a super performance of taditional songs and dances followed. One concession to modern ways being the use of guitar rather than the shells which would traditionally have been the order of the day. I found the songs and music very engaging and likeable and of the group of 6 (3 men and 3 women) one of the ladies was particularly good, and her expressions were amazing - definitely achieving the intimidating feel she was aiming for! A couple of the routines involved sticks passed and thrown between them and the pace and agility was amazing. Another involved woven flaxen balls on the end of a length of rope being swung and caught in rythym with the songs and music. At the end of that one a couple of "volunteers" from the audience were picked to have a go too - and guess who one of these volunteers was! Fortunately they kept the routine fairly basic so I was mostly able to follow what I should be doing - good fun though even if I wouldn't be asked to join permanently anytime soon!! After the performance I went on a guided tour of the grounds. Waitangi is where the Treaty of Waitangi was signed in 1840 between the British and many Maori chiefs effectively forming the constitution of the state of New Zealand and proclaiming its official inception. First stop on the tour was at a Waka (canoe) built for the 1940 centenary of the treaty's signing. It was carved from one huge Kauri tree and is capable of holding about 160 men with about half of them paddling at any one time. It is ornately carved and has no nails or glue holding it together: the strengthening side beams are lashed on with rope which swells and tightens in the water so se4aling the holes drilled ti wind it through. The craft is a recreation of the waka which Kupe, the first Polynesian settler on Aotearoa, would have arrived on. Next port of call for us was the flagstaff which marks the actual site of the signing of the treaty and which flies the three flags of significance for NZ: the union jack, the first flag of confederation of Maori states and the present NZ flag. There is also a Maori meeting hall, again built for the centenary using traditional skills and crafts, and beautifully and inticately carved detailing the ancestors, figureheads and legends of traditional patterns. Then, of course, there is the traty house itself. Now fully restored it was the private residence of James Busby, a Scot, who was sent to NZ as the official British Resident to broker peace between the warring factions, round up escape convicts, and establish the treaty for New Zealand. Later falling into disrepair it was bought by Lord Bledisloe, a former governer, and put into trust for the public, recognising the cultural significance of the site. All in all a very interesting and informative place to visit.
Leaving Paihia I crossed to Hokianga. Hokianga is culturally very important as it is where Kupe made his first home after arriving in his Waka on what was to become New Zealand. I was staying at a hostel in Omapere and it was excellent. Sue, the hostel owner met me and the three other new arrivals from the bus and took us for a quick run in the car pointing out the locations of some of the local landmarks. At the "heads" the green hilly cliff looks across the narrow channel to the 300m high sand dunes of the North Head and the sea of Hokianga 'harbour' stretches way back up the valley until the Tasman sea finally becomes a river with other rivers and streams feeding into it. Its really a firth rather than a harbour but I don't know if they have an equivalent term over here.Back at the hostel it was superb: up a longish drive sitting above the highway its surrounded by fields and meadow, has a large patio with benches and hammocks for lounging around aswell as the big indoor lounge and basically just has a very homely feel to it. Leaving the comfort of the hammocks I went walking along the beach with one of the other guests, and although the chillyish wind put paid to thoughts of swimming the sand was still warm underfoot and it was fine paddling through the creeks feeding in to the sea. We got chatting with a guy fishing for snapper off the beach and when we ran out of beach further on he caught us up and showed us through his property and back onto the road. A simple but friendly gesture from a local, and one which would come to typify the people I met here. In the evening several of us were going on a twilight trip to the Waipoua Forest and when they turned up to collect us we were met by our larger than life Maori guide Tufferei(Tuf) and Aee his assistant. As we made our way to the forest, he introduced himself and his maori heritage before getting us each to say a little about ourselves too. Then when we reached the forest he spoke about Maori respect for nature and environment and the need to introduce yourself to it (it reminded me of Capes at Monkey Mia and the similar Aborignal belief). He then sang his greeting and prayer giving us an English translation afterwards. A big lad, he had a wonderful tone and resonance to his singing. We walked with him pointing out aspects of the forest and where relevant giving traditional tales and stories connected to those points of interest until we reached the "stars" of our trip - the giant Kauri trees. Kauris are huge, old , tall trees with a hammered looking trunk and limbless until the canopy opens out at the top. They grow to an immense age and have an enormous girth. The timber is excellent for building and crafting so were in the past extensively harvested, so much so that the species was almost lost forever and now only about 4% of what was once there remains. Now protected the only woodworking with auri timber is from a supply of felled trees reckoned to be about 5000 years old. They were found preserved in mud after having been flattened in a huge el nino-esque tidal surge thousands of years ago. At Waipoua we saw a 3 year old tiny sapling, a 15 year old tree and a 20 yo showing how slow growing they are at first until suddenly about 20 years they start to sprout - shooting up to become the tallest trees in the forest and limbs only then starting to form as it spreads out to form the ceiling over the flora and fauna below. Once it has reached its height it then starts to broaden getting wider and wider as it ages -and capable of living for thousands of years that can be a significant girth. As it expands it bursts out of its bark causing the hammered appearance as the shells are thrown off. Having seen the young Kauri we then reached Te Matua Ngahere. It is reputed to be the second biggest Kauri tree currently living and thought to be over 2000 years old. It was massive: about 29 metres tall from ground to limb and about 16 m round it was awesome. Again Tuf sang a traditional song referring to it which was lovely and yet haunting at the same time. Somehow it really made you think about time and the power of nature and what it can achieve given half a chance. We stayed a while amazed by the tree before heading back seeing Kiwi burrows though not the birds themselves, Morepork owls and hearing Tui birds. Back at the minibus Tuf sang a farewell to the area, then as we were about to leave we heard a male Kiwi calling. We listened for the female's reply but heard no more so set off back down the road before stopping at Tane Mahuta. It is the largest Kauri and although even taller than Te Matua Ngahere its not so round and I didn't find it quite so striking - perhaps because I wasn't so taken aback by it as I was earlier. We had a final song before leaving and being ferried back to our hotels and hostels. It was a wonderful tour a fantastically simple mix of nature and song but really enjoyable. It was also noticable how our introductions at the start of the evening were not just a method of passing time as throughout the evening little personal comments were made relevant to particular individuals background - a real nice friendly touch.
Next day while waiting for a lift for a boat trip I met Sue and Mike's cat Tequilla. He's the twin of Fred except he has a short tail - its as if half of Tequilla's went to Fred instead! When my lift arrived the driver was Bob the fisherman from yesterday and he was just as chatty today. He dropped me off for the boat and Zack our guide and driver introduced himself and his maori background before we set off - the format of today's trip being similar to last night with songs interspersed with stories and information. Its a combination that really appeals to me. We went first down through some pretty rough water to the foot of the Heads where he spoke about Kupe - the first Polynesian here and his settling in the area, the name Hokianga meaning returning place and given in recognition of Kupe's continual return to the area. From the harbour entrance we worked our way all the way up the harbour to Manganunu pausing at variouss points en route: the Pa site (maori fort) where carved figures had been sited along the walls of the fort to dispel invaders by giving the illusion of it being more densely populated than it was; the site of the first courthouse in NZ; giant concretion boulders (created over thousands of years by sediment building up round little pebbles being rolled around the seashore); pretty St Mary's church at Motuti (first catholic mission house); and finally the Mangununu Mission House. We docked the boat there and walked up to look at the building where 63 local maori chiefs had signed the Treaty of Waitangi in 1840 when it was brought there on its circumnavigation of the country to obtain further assent. A lovely old local lady , Feena, spoke about the history of the place and showed us their copy of the treaty and sang another traditional tune. Then followed a lovely time when we all just sat and talked - Zack and her speaking about local people and activities but involving us in the conversation. It was just a brilliant atmosphere - like sitting at your favourite auny's getting the local news and gossip. When we finally left there we crossed the river to a waterside cafe for afternoon tea. Two of the group left us there leaving just me and a dad with his young son of about 10 yuears of age. When we left the cafe to return to our starting point at Opononi Zack let the boy drive the boat and he had an absolute ball: we zig-zagged a lot at first until the youngster got the hang of it (Zack telling him just to pretend he was on his playstation playing a game seemed to do the trick!) then we sped off no problems at all. I just thought of you Fraser being there and getting the same opportunity and could just imagine your grin afterwards! Zack retook controls to berth us back at the wharf at the end of another outstanding trip. The tours are not altogether slick, polished or seamless, but for me that's the charm and they have all the more charm for it. Back on dry land I was given a lift back to the hostel, and spent my last evening in the wonderful area chatting, laughing and generally having fun with the others. Just brilliant.
Starting to begin to journey south I had another overnight stop in Auckland before carrying on towards New Plymouth. The meal stop en route was in the little town of Te Kuiti whose claim to fame, I discovered, is that it's the sheep shearing capital of New Zealand and stages the national shearing championships each year. It was a huge 7.5 metre high statue of a shearer and sheep in the middle of a roundabout at the end of the main street to mark it connection - bizarre! carrying on to New Plymouth I found a town where the main attractions centre around its natural landscape and the surrounding scenery. Unfortunatley during my visit it poured with rain for most of the time, coupled with low cloud and a strong wind. I didn't even manage to pick out the silhouette of the 2,500 metre high Mount Taranaki which is close by, let alone see it in its glory or go walking there! Even the sea looked cold grey and uninviting, but at least there with a nice boardwalk and path following the shore you could see how attractive it would be in good weather. The rain did ease enough in the evening to be able to go to one of the local parks which hosts a festival of light and music throughout the summer months, though. The band I saw were really very good: called Dreadrock they played a kind of reggae rock and obviously popular locally.
From New Plymouth I moved to Wanganui, a lovely city, and her the weather changed again becoming lovely and warm and sunny again. It was a nice place to stroll around and climbing up the hill to a lookout I was even able to see all the way across to the snowcapped Mt Taranaki which had staedfastly remained hidden while I was there. However, the highlight of my visit to Wanganui was undoubtedly the morning I spent going on a trip up the Whanganui River Road with the mailman, Noel, delivering the post as we went. He picked me up from the hostel early on a beautiful morning with a little mist hanging low over the river looking really picturesque. Noel has the sontract for rural delivery #6 which covers about 96 properties along the road and acts as a daily bus service for those residents who don't have their own transport. If they take his service into town though they have to stay overnight before getting back, so several just leave shopping lists and money in their mailboxes for him to collect one day and deliver their shopping the next. Not long after turning off the highway onto the river road is a viewpoint looking down the valley but this morning it was a whiteout of mist so we didn't stop to enjoy it! The road twists and turns along the course of the riverside up and down the hillside as it goes. Haven fallen below the mist again it was fantastically scenic. Lots of ferns, trees and undulating grazing with cattle, sheep and goats as well as a few pigs. Agapanthas added a splash of blue to the verges and the brilliant crimson of Pohutukawas which I love were interspersed with various other flowers creeping through the fences and hedges from the roadside properties. Leaving the post in mailboxes at roadends means there isn't the everyday contact with people that our posties have, but with one parcel needing a signature we turned into one driveway and across their field past their little orchard of apple trees where sheep and pigs were running about until we reached the house. With no-one home we had to return with the parcel undelivered. Dropping off elsewhere we met a couple of friendly folks who came to meet and greet. As we travelled I noticed some of the roadside banks were very sheer with crumbly, almost slatelike compacted mud which can dry out to sand in the summer. The road can often become blocked by landslides in winter so Noel has to clear a track though at times. The last part of the road is currently unsealed but work is underway to widen it before tarring the road. In order to do that they are clearing previously vegetated banks leaving them bare so Noel fears it will be a recipe for further landslides after heavy showers. Also, like I did at cape Reinga, he feels it will spoil the character of the place. Locals have very mixed feelings on the project too - those with businesses generally in favour while individuals are primarily against it. Noel also pointed out one verge face which was full of old oyster shells so apparently seas passed by at one time. Now so fragile they turn to dust if touched, but fortunately most are just high enough to stop passers by doing that. A little further along we were caught up by a private car taking, it transpire, two people on a jet-boat trip. When we stopped to speak to one local man they transferred to us. The boaters needed to be in Papriki, at the end of our delivery route, by about 9.30 so we abandoned deliveries and made our way up as speedily as we could to get them there as close to time as possible. The friendly guy at the office there exchanged banter with us before the two of us continued on our way. We had morning tea by the jetty there: coffee and lemon curd muffins being provided. Our picnic stop was lovely - hot sun, winding river, green hills, blue sky, stoney foreshore, boat ramp - need I say more other than to throw in the twittering birds and rose coloured butterfly for good measure! further stops were made to see Koriniti Marae, The Jerusalem church and mission, and at Kawana Flour mill where we had our picnic lunch. The marae - a traditional Maori meeting place - is still well used and Maori iwi from the Wanganui area will gather there for holidays, weddings, funerals, functions and so on. It was beautifully decorated and maintained with red wooden carvings edgeing the white buildings. The Jerusalem Mission church was set up in the 1860's by a French woman, Susanne Aubert, who had travelled from home against her family's wishes to work with the maoris. Travelling upriver by boat as there was no roadway in those days she soon established a home for children, whether they be orphans, disabled or abandoned, and stubbornly refused to tell the authorities where all the children came from. She was trying to protect the parents or unmarried mothers who would have faced shame and rejection for their actions, but was considered to be hiding information by the authorities or at worst of having something to hide herself. Eventually she moved the children's home to Wellington in order to be nearer medical assistance, but the sisters of Compassion order which she established grew to have projects across New Zealand and beyond. Susanne Aubert was 91 when she died, an incredible age for the time and even more so considering that as a child she fell into an icy pond and, nearly drowning, she was bedridden for months before slowly recovering. The jerusalem mission had about 20 nuns at one time but today there are just 3. There is a small church with a strange mix of maori and European decorations, carvings and artwork, and a convent which people can use as a B&B rgardless of faith or none. In their spare time the nuns make marmalades, jams and pickles using the fruit and veg in their gardens and sell them on site and at farmers markets. Like everyone I met on the road the ladies were jolly, friendly and welcoming. I didn't feel like an outsider on the trip, more like visiting friends or relations I hadn't seen for a long time. It was lovely. Our lunch stop at the mill was another super spot. At one time six mills would have lined the river with Kawana being one of the first built. Kawana means governor in Maori and the materials for it were largely donated by rthe then governor-general of NZ. As farming in the vally declined local milling fell by the wayside and the mills gradually fell into disrepair. Kawana was no exception, but all the working components remained on site. Members of a local tramping club eventually cut back the scrub and undergrowth and secured funding to rebuild the mill and preserve it as a historic monument. After much hard work it was finally reopened as a non-working but complete museum in 1980. Once we left there we made our last few deliveries, with me making the last two or three, so you can tell Stuart that if he wants a relief postie when I come back I can now add postal experience to my CV! Returning to town with the morning's mist having well and truly gone leaving the clear sunny day we were able to stop off briefly at the viewpoint that wasn't on the way in. It was a magnificent vista - looking all the way down the valley to snowcapped Mt Ruapehu in the far distance in distinct contrast to the hills around us. I was a fantastic end to a super tour and enjoyable visit to Wanganui.
I moved on then to spend christmas in Wellington and to explore the city. Christmas day was certainly different to those I've had in the past but I ended up enjoying the day - even if it was a bit odd with it being a warm day with everyone in tshirts, shorts etc. I had collected some cards and a parcel from the post office on xmas eve - a big thank you to everyone for your cards. It was really lovely to have them and to "decorate" my bunk with them all. I opened my parcel from mum and dad on christmas morning which was lovely and made the day seem special. Next it was down to the dining area where bubbly, mince pies and christmas cake was laid on by the hostel staff. A mixed nationality group of people I'd met up with (Scottish, English, Canadian, American, Chilean, Australian, Swedish and Dutch) gathered to enjoy our drinks and nibbles before heading off to go for lunch at a fuction someone had heard about and assured us it was open to all. When we got there it turned out to be primarily aimed at the homeless, and as we were told it was always oversubscribed we reckoned the homeless need it more that we did so we left again. The same bus driver who had told of the lunch had also said that the museum, Te Papa, would be open on xmas day, so somewhat unconvinced we headed there instead. Surprisingly it was open, and we all gradually went our separate ways as we got lost in its charms. Spread over several floors there are lots of exhibits - static, interactive, audiovisual, computer generated, mechanical and written. It was a fantastic place with marvelous sections on the earth's core, volcanoes and earthquakes, weather, natural history (including the skeletons of huge Moa birds, Giant eagles and a young but still massive blue whale) and a collosal squid. It was supremely ugly but a phenomenal size, and despite its repulsiveness everyone was strangely drawn to look at it! In another section a huge satelite image of the country was inlaid into tiles on the floor and backlit to give a real impression of the nation. On anther floor was a whole area about the scots in New zealand which made a nice connection to home, and at a section about whisky I was able to have a good sniff of peat smoke giving me a bit of the flavour of Laphroaig - even if not the taste! Getting "all museumed out" for one day I left the rest for another time and went to meet up with one of the Canadian girls, Carmen, as prearranged to make our christmas dinner. We feasted on chicken wrapped in bacon and roasted with mediterranean veggies and mashed potatoes, all washed down with red wine, and followed by syrup pudding and cream which we shared with another three americans and a dutch girl who'd joined us as we sat blethering, laughing and stuffing our faces. Afterwards, in an attempt to walk off the excesses, I walked along to the beach to meet up with some of the others who were picnicking there. I can safely say I've never before had a picnic on the beach approaching 9pm on the 25th December but it was a great ending to a very different xmas day for me. Wellington is a city I came to really like - its nestled in a basin at the foot of several hills, and with not too many high-rise buildings, the busy harbour, the pedestrian orientated wharfside with walkways, cafes and water based activities, it has a nice vibe to it and is easy to feel at home in. The next couple of days I spent wandering around the city, both on a walking tour and independently. There are lots of sculptures, statues and monuments all around the city and more are added each year apparently. A Mr Plimmer, an early NZ Prime Minister, left money in a trust fund for annual additions and so tenders are invited each year for designs and locations across the city. (Needless to say one of the statues is of Mr Plimmer himself). The parliament building is dubbed "the Beehive" on account of its striking round multistorey design, and is a huge contrast with the old classically styled parliament building just across the road which is the oldest and largest completely wooden building left in NZ. Absolutely everything, including the pillars are made from native timbers. I also took the cable-car (train not aerial) up one of the many hills to the botanic gargens. Lookouts from them provide marvelous views out over the city and then provide a wonderful walk back down into the city proper. The fern patch and aromatic herb garden were both lovely, but the stars for me are the Pohutukawa trees. The gold tinged deep red flowers really appeal to me and really are so appropriate for the festive season when they bloom. Finally, I climbed the steep hillside path to Mount Victoria and more spectacular view. In one direction over the city but in the other it looks South out over the Cook Strait and across the sea and where the next land you would reach if you were to set sail would be Antartica.
I left the city for a few days then and took the train just half an hour up the coast to Mana,a little seaside sattelite village for Wellington. It has a little marina and a narrow(ish) channel of water which runs under the highway bridge to become Pauatahanoi inlet. The bay is lovely - surrounded by green lush hills with a mixture of grasses and bushes, some cattle grazing, and of course my Pohutukawas to add splashes of red. Along the shoreline are several colourful baches. A bach is a little beach house generally used as a holiday home and these were built out on stilts over the water so people could take their little dinghies or kayaks almost to their door. I spent my two or three days there walking, paddling and sitting round the inlet and marina or wandering way along the coast enjoying the salty air and people watching at the beaches. The strangest sight for me was when a car drew up beachside and a bride and her two bridesmaids got out to have some photos taken. Now, as you know I am certainly no fashion guru, but I was amazed when I saw the bridesmaids' dresses. I am sure the best man, ushers, and probably half the other guests would be delighted but to me strappless flouncy minidresses looked a bit odd for the occassion! Then, on my penultimate morning at Mana I was busy making my breakfast porridge when Rex, the owner of the lodge, came in and seeing what I was doing teased me and suggested I should be having a dram alongside it. I laughingly agreed and the next thing I know he produced a bottle of Port Wood Glenmorangie and told me to help myself! Now, at breakfast time it's really too early, even for me. But what was I to do - it was almost hogmanay, I hadn't had a dram in nearly 6 months and I couldn't let my country down could I, so I very stoically and patriotically forced myself to pour a large one and had the best porridge I've had!!
When I left Mana I returned to Wellington for Hogmanay and that was really the only time the city let me down. I went down to the Civic Dquare where there was a band playing to see in the new year. There were lots of people milling around but no real atmosphere. The most interesting thing to watch was really the police anti drink-driving roadblocks and breathalysing of all drivers! Then as the clock ticked round towards midnight there was a bit of a countdown and half-hearted cheer of Happy New Year and a couple of party poppers went off on stage, and that was it! Not a firework to be seen and no general greeting and well-wishing around the crowds - everyone just began to filter away. To my mind it was a pretty pitiful way for the capital city of one of the first countries to bring in the New Year. I returned to the hostel and had a little dram from a bottle I'd got for myself (but Vicky, Chris, there were no Islay whiskies to be seen in the shop - a definite gap in the market there for you to remedy!) and that was about it for the first half of my trip, and for Wellington. I would be moving on again later in the day.
