I was looking forward to having another long train journey and seeing how it compared to the trans-siberian - the trip to Adelaide would take about 42hours. As I got checked in I could see that Australia could learn a lot from the Russians - the terminal building was uninspiring to say the least, and as its quite a way out of the city centre there aren't many other people around to give it any kind of life. After checking in I had a stroll the length of the train and back before waiting in the building while the train was readied for departure. My carriage was the last of about a dozen with a luggage van and three car transporters, carrying about 20 cars between them, behind. We boarded and departed exactly on time and got a spiel from the night manager about the general housekeeping arrangements. The carriage itself was clean and comfy enough but lacked the personal touch of a provodnitsa. I just had a seated carriage and it was laid out in rows of 2x2 like an airline. The woman in the seat next to me was a bit dull and monotoned to say the least. I should have sussed straight away when she came and sat down: the carriage was warm but she sat with her long coat on, jeans tucked into her boots, bag clutched on her lap kind of reminiscent of a taller slimmer version of Les Dawson's Cissy. Saying hello, I kind of got a non-commital "ohh" in reply. When staff came asking for tickets she said she didn't have any then proceeded to produce 3! I realised then that she might be hard work over the next couple of days! For the next wee while she kept herself to herself, then asked me whether I'd hay fever or a cold. I explained it was a cold and all was quiet until she turned to me later and said in her slow dull voice "Garlic!" I didn't know whether I was meant to understand, whether she was just talking to herself, as she had been earlier, or what. Querying it, she explained that I should take garlic as it was good for colds. Not having learned my lesson yet I laughed and said I did have some in my chiller bag, so later on she asked how my garlic was doing!! Periodically throughout much of the rest of the journey she would make random statements, or ask silly questions to which I wouldn't know the answer, and by the time she asked me how much a flight from Perth to Adelaide would have been I politely told her I didn't know, but silently I was wishing to high heaven that she was on one!! Apart from her the trip was going ok. We plodded on slowly past huge flat wheat fields and into gum tree lined bush, stopping in Kalgoorlie for a few hours then on across the Nullarbor Plain. With just some kangarros bounding along and a few wedge-tailed eagles looking for prey as company we travelled along the longest straight stretch of railway track in the world: all 478km of it. Apart from a ridge of rocks running parrallel to the railway line marking the location of the underground fibreoptic communication cables between WA and the eastern states, the empty desert stretched off as far as the eye could see. Eventually we reached the 'township' of Cook and we were able to get out for a couple of hours as driving crews changed and water was topped up. Cook itself consisted of little more than toilets, a drinking water fountain, an office for railway workers and a small shop selling a limited range of drinks, magnets and commemorative tea-towels to the tourists from the trains. It was nice to get outside however, even though it was almost 40degrees and accompanied by a stiff breeze which blew sand into your face for much of the time. As we carried on again we stopped a couple of times to drop off some passengers at tiny outposts with no sign of habitation for miles all around, leaving me wondering just where the passengers were going. Eventually, having crossed into South Australia and completed the "straight stretch" we continued winding our way until we drew into Adelaide. Reflecting on the journey across the plain I'm glad I did it and appreciated being able to see the scenery, albeit its an empty landscape, but the trip didn't have the magic of my other long-distance train rides. Whether that was because I wasn't feeling my best, a result of by boring companion, the fact that the journey is now primarily a tourist passage rather than a routine travel route, or a combination of all three I haven't decided. Anyway, at the station I managed to loiter a bit until the first shuttle bus left taking my travel-mate with it, before catching a bus into town in peace.
The next few days in and around Adelaide were spent fairly uneventfully and quietly as I tried to finally shrug off the cold which was more persistant than I liked. I did enjoy wandering round the stalls of the central market though. It was a really colourful mish-mash of stalls selling fresh produce of all sorts at very resonable prices and largely all locally sourced. There was fruit and veg, meat and fish, breads and cakes, herbs, pasta and cheeses. It was busy too, and with the noise and bustle and the shouting of the stallholders there was a wonderful atmosphere to the place. It was a good place to buy but it was also good just to wander and enjoy.
I also took a trip down to the nearby coastal town of Glenelg - just half an hour from Adelaide. Once you get past the main street which is pretty much the same as any other small town main street, you arrive at a pretty little plaza. A mixture of modern boxy and older character filled buildings form the entrance to the promenade and the beach beyond. A series of spouting water fountains provide a playground for the young (and young at heart) to race round and through getting soaked as the fountains randomly spurt. The area is surrounded by cafes, eateries and benches just to sit. Palm trees fringe the area and line the path down to a decorative tower commemorating the first colonial landings in the region. On the green in front of the little jetty camel or pony rides were offered although both animals looked a bit tired and neither were getting many takers. I passed too, and after a stroll down the pier and back I wasn't tempted to join the hardy souls trying to sun themselves on the breezy beach, instead going to the little local museum. It was small but fairly interesting, concentrating on local heros and characters. Central to the displays was a section on Jimmy Marsh a young local aviator who broke various aeronautical records in his short life and career, including for quick flights from the UK to Australia, before trgically being killed in a plane crah at the age of just 22.
Back in Adelaide I spent a lovely afternoon in the Botanic gardens. The hush that descended almost as soon as I stepped in through the gates from the busy main road was incredible. The gardens are set on gently sloping land with most of the walkways edged by taller trees and lawns and themed gardens spanning out behind. Ducks waddled about despite the lack of any water of much significance - there was a small pond but I presume most must have come up from the river for a visit! Other birds - parrots, cockatoos and other exotic and unfamiliar species flew about and called, chirped and twittered overhead or rustled about in the undergrowth. Behind beds of colourful ground cover plants were some veggies and tatties - although it was still early for the tatties here and they didn't look a patch on dad's anyway! A lovely big avenue was lined by huge old fig trees creating a super cool canopy in what had turned into a warm sunny day. Beyond that again was a mediterranean garden with a lgently flowing water channel tipping out into a pool at the end. The gentle trickling of the water was restful and hypnotic in the warmth. An arbour of wysteria separated that area from a glass house of rainforest plants. It looked a bit triffid-like though as the canopies pressed against the glass roof as if desparately trying to break free. there was also a colourful rose garden and although many of the roses seemed to be past their best the aroma was heady. It was nice to get that real rose scent and not just pretty looking flower heads. I wandered round for a couple of hours or more before eventually leaving.
My last day in Adelaide I spent walking in the northern part of the city. As soon as I reached the river Torrens which separates the two parts it became quieter and less bustling. The river isn't very wide and is quite slow flowing but there are landscaped embankments lining either side and several groups of people were dotted along the banks watching the world go by. I walked along the riverside entertained by the ducks, pelicans and black swans swimming or ambling about and the odd fish jumping and splashing in the river. Stopping in the shade of the trees I was joined by an older guy, who although I think might be a bit eccentric, was humerous enough, and a bit of a grey nomad. We chatted and exchanged travel stories before I moved on and up to the northern suburbs. There were great views to be had over the CBD and out to the hills beyond the city, and obviously one of the more affluent areas of town and a central part of old Adelaide, it was enjoyable whiling away some time strolling round the area until I headed back towards the river and back to my hostel to collect my luggage before going to catch the bus to my next destination - Melbourne.
Adelaide is a pretty but quiet city. It was fine spending a few days here but that was long enough to visit most of its attractions. I was ready to move on.
