It was a quick overnight trip to Ulan-Ude. The city has its own very distinct atmosphere - the capital of the Buryat region there is a much more noticable eastern feel to the place, and the architecture is more elegant too. There are still the soviet appartment blocks but also a graceful cathedral and temple, a wide pedestrianised street and lots of ornamental and cooling fountains and water features. The people too are generally of a more eastern appearance.A definite change in culture.
Its a hot and attractive city but not a whole lot to do in it. I had a visit to the Ethnographical museum - which was essentially a collection of the different traditional wooden Buryat homes used in the area over the ages. To be honest though I couldn't say I could really tell much difference from one era to the next, but it was a pleasant way to spend a morning.
Having enjoyed Lake Baikal so much I got a trip to the Eastern side of the lake arranged for a couple of days. I got one of the Marshrutky buses to a village called Gremyachinsk. Marshrutkies are minibuses that operate on fixed routes. In typical Russian fashion though about 70 of us and assorted luggage were booked for the trip. After a bit of a carfuffle it was established that no we wouldn't all manage to squeeze into a 20 seater vehicle so reluctantly another was summonsed. Despite the best efforts to get everyone left into it, it was finally accepted we'd need a third and so before much longer we were all squeezed in and luggage was squashed into the boot or strapped to the roof and we were off. Like most Russian roads, those round Ulan-ude are the usual mix of pot-holes bound together by some old and cracked concrete but we raced and bumped along at break-neck speed. If Russia hasn't had many rally world champions its simply because they're plying their trade as Marshrutky drivers across the country instead! I was interrogated by a couple of Russian women on the way who were determined to know all about me, and once quickly exhausting the extent of my Russian language ability, continued to fire questions at me, presumably in the vain hope that inspiration would strike and I'd suddenly be able to reply in some kind of language they'd understand! Eventually we reached Gremyachinsk and it is a beautiful traditional wooden housed village perched on the lake side with a population of about 1000 people. My Russian speaking host met me at the bus and took me to her fantastic little homestead. It was handbuilt by her brother, has no running water, an outside "longdrop" loo and limited electrics but is absolutely idyllic. She has a small garden where she grows her own veg to use in her excellent cooking and her own Banya which i was to experience later!
It was a beautiful day so I headed straight to the beach to swim again. It was brilliant - so picturesque and relaxing. It transpires that Lake Baikal is revered as a very powerful place by the Buddhist faith and a centre has been established in Gremyachinsk and each year there is a 10 day retreat held there which is attended by over 500 folk from across Siberia and beyond. That day was the last day and a big final picnic was being prepared. I was invited with Olga and her english speaking friend, Natasha, who knew some folk there to share in their picnic and I ended up eating some fare from the leader's table! It was a wonderfully colourful and friendly event, and it just felt absolutely surreal to be sitting on the shore of the lake amonst all these people and their campsite eating at a Buddhist picnic. Never in a month of Sundays could I have imagined the scenario.
I had a fantastic time over the couple of days eating wonderful homecooked traditional Buryat food, swimming and walking. On the last day it was announced it was Banya night that night, and the fire was lit in the afternoon to make sure it would be hot enough by the evening. A banya is essentially the traditional Russian equivalent of a sauna: alternating up to about three times over the course of an hour between a hot steam room and a cold room (or often a cold pool or river). With a banya, though, birch twigs are soaked in water to soften them and are then used to beat all over the body during each steam session - apparently releasing wonderful woodland aromas and helping to open the pores to thoroughly cleanse the body. I would have to say, though, it did nothing for me and as I stood there naked with two near strangers hitting each other with birch twigs it just seemed absolutely bizzare. It wasn't sore or unpleastant but just somehow pointless and its a devil of a job rinsing off the bits of twig and leaves afterwards!!! It was certainly another novel travelling experience - though perhaps not one I'd race to repeat!
All too soon, however, I had to leave and headed back to Ulan-ude to get a train for Mongolia. Russia certainly said goodbye in style, and I thoroughly enjoyed my time in the country. There were so many nice places and people I've met during my stay that I think I'll always have a bit of a soft spot for the country.
