The bus to St.Petersburg was the best yet - spacious and comfy - and although a wet day I enjoyed the trip. Crossing the border was what I'd call my first real border crossing: on the Estonian side our passports were collected and taken away and we sat and waited for quarter of an hour and their return, then we passed to the Russian side and everyone had to get out and collect their luggage. In the customs hall I'd an immigration form to complete, then my passport and visa were checked before getting my official stamp of acceptance and being allowed through to rejoin the bus which was by this time waiting for us on the Russian side. Straightforward but a big step forward.
On entering Russia there was a marked change in roads again as we went back to the Polish style bumps and worn carriageways. It was also interesting to see the roadside stalls set up by the older ladies, or sometimes men, to sell their veg and produce. A definite change in culture again.
Arriving in St.Petersburg I managed to get to the metro and buy a token ok so went to the platforms with my destination station written in cryllic as best I could. Unfortunately i didn't have the intermediate stations written and with a change of line required and no map in sight it was a bit difficult. Fortunately there was a woman in a booth at the foot of the stairs and with a bit of pointing, my limited pronounciation and the small scale map I had but which she had the wrong specs on to read (dad I thought of you and your changing specs palaver) we eventually got there and I was on my way. The hostel is definitely the most basic so far and essentially clean but not resounding to peels of laughter! I think it acts as a home for russian workers visiting the city too. However in the common room I heard another Scottish accent and me Andrew and Gillian fellow travellers heading for the trans-siberian. Of all the coincidences Andrew is originally from Forres though has been in Ireland for a few years. Anyway, they're a couple of days ahead of me but had got tickets today so were able to tell me exactly which booth to go to in the booking office so hopefully allowing me to avoid the various queuing they'd had to endure. Later I met Kaiytol(?) a young russian lad who spoke english, and seeing me trying to make notes as to what I wanted and for when, he offered help with some pronounciations. He was pretty appalled at my initial attempts and amazed at me travelling across russia in general but with a bit of perseverance and despite his pessimism regarding my potential for success with tickets I was soon ready to see what I'd get.
When I did get to the hall I was glad of allthe info as the queues downstairs were horrendous and I'd not have guessed there was an upstairs department for foreigners. Anyway with little hassle and the help of a positively friendly (by russian officialdom's standards) lady at the counter, lots of note scribbling and calendar pointing I got Kupeney tickets for Moscow, Tomsk, Irkutsk and plastkartny for Ulan-ude. Time and tickets didn't allow for Severobaikalsk or all the way to Vladivostock which is a shame but so be it. That night when i was checking which trains and beds I had though I noticed I was arriving and departing Irkutsk the same day so I was back the next day to change it. Fortunately that was quite straightforward other than much longer queuing for the refund on my cancelled ticket.I definitely have to be more careful about dates and times on tickets - I don't want a third mistake!! Queuing in Russia is an artform in itself: so many stand in line, then someone can't be bothered waiting so goes to sit down and retakes their place later. That's fine in theory until others come along and only see someone pushing in and so a squabble breaks out until the explanation is passed down the line by several people- usually at once. Also, if you've been served but have a query later you just seem to go back to the head of the queue - again a potential bone of contention! Finally if you're in a rush you just stand at the front and announce your intention to but in anyway.
St.Petersburg is a beautiful city for wandering - the architecture is just stunning and there are more ornate buildings and golden spires and domes than you could imagine. The wealth there must have been is just amazing! i spent ages just walking and enjoying the riversides and twisty wee streets and bits of parks. The parks are not shows of colour - just greenery but it makes a pleasant break from the frenetic pace of the city.
The Hermitage museum with the Winter Palace was breathtaking - and not just for the 2 hour queue to get in. Each room seemed to be grander than the next, and some are just so wonerfully inticately and sumptuously gilded and decorated its fantastic. TheGolden drawing room for instance is just that - almost wall to wall, ceiling to floor golden. Just jaw dropping. Having said that, there are some very ordinary rooms too, and I just don't "get" all the dark moody paintings seemingly favoured in the age. I just don't see the beauty of marvel in them. However that's just me!
Also worth the trip was the hydrofoil to Petershof to see the gardens and "grand cascade": an outstanding collection of fountains, ornamental ponds and water features. Arriving by boat was spectacular as from the jetty you look straight up the canal to the golden palace at the top of the hill, and particularly with the sun shining on it it was twinkling absolutey majestically. I spent hours just walking and enjoying it. And with it being such a draw for local, Russian and foreigner alike there was a real relaxed holiday atmosphere about the place. Fantastic.
The overnight train to Moscow was great- really quite comfy and I slept well. I hope thats a good omen for the longer trips to come. Moscow itself is a city of contrasts too. As with all big cities I suppose some parts are dull grey and uninteresting, but that certainly can't be said of the centre. Red Square, the Kremlin and St Basils cathedral are just something to behold! Having seen pictures so often it was amazing to actually be there.
Red Square is bounded by the high plain and imposing Kremlin wall on one side and surrounded by colourful, bright and spectacular architecture on the others! It is also huge. Thousands could easily gather here and I can only imagine at the sight of the mass parades there. St basils cathedral is so ornate and multicoloured its just bizarre! The contrast to the sobriety beside it is just mind-boggling.
Inside the Kremlin is huge too. I didn't appreciate just how amny palaces, state bulidings, churches and so on make up the complex. Tourists are quite carefully marshalled though by the many police on duty to blow their whistles and shout at you if you stray out of the designated areas, You're not allowed within about 100meteres of the state palace for instance. There's also a pretty little garden, where the big-wigs wander I suppose, and where the new year address is made. The oppulence on show in the decoration of the churches and towers is amazing and the insides even more so. You are not allowed to take photos inside but its almost all gold and decorative paintings and tapestries. There are a couple of museums too with gifts, gems and artefacts belonging to the Tzars. I just wonder how all this religious symbolism was dealt with during the communist era. it also reminded me of how I felt at the vatican - the irony of how the wealth oppulence and "show" contrasted so markedly with the lot of the peoples overseen by it all. I didn't even visit the armoury or diamond fund exhibitions - my cheapskate nature didn't reckon on the need to pay any more to see even more - I was dumbstrick by it all as it was.
On exiting the Kremlin we were all kept back from the gates and not allowed out for 5-10 minutes with no obvious word of explanation. On release, though, it appeared a TV drama was being filmed. Change days indeed, I'm sure.
Well this leg of my Russia adventure is almost over - I leave for Tomsk tonight. I hope I enjoy my time out east as I have the big cities.
