Finally departed Scottish shores on Tuesday 1st July at 5pm after a morning of pacing around like a caged lion! I had my usual last minute panics and inability to make simple decisions, and despite assuring everyone I was ready days ago decided then that I needed an extra padlock! If I could have just relaxed a bit I could have enjoyed the last day at mum and dad's but instead probably left them exhausted and wondering even more about how I'll get on. Then again, hopefully they know by now what I'm like. There were a couple of jokes made about how often I could check for passport and ticket in a day.
The crossing was great - calm and comfy - and I ate well at the buffets. Breakfast was probably more to my taste, and I certainly had my money's worth!
Bruges was lovely. I'd never been before and lots of people said how pretty it was but its nice to see yourself. I spent the afternoon just wandering all the little lanes, streets and alleyways enjoying the fact that it was hot and sunny and the views were so picturesque wherever you went. I was just at about the furthest point I was going when the heavens opened! My return to the hostel was somewhat quicker than my meander from it!! Needless to say it stooped and dried up almost as soon as I was back so I was able to enjoy my evening meal outside.
Next day it was up the Belfry tower for the panoramic views. I reached the top of the bell tower at a minute to 11 just in time for the full glory of the LOUD ringing and striking of the clock. The afternoon saw a fantastic walking tour and as there were only 5 of us and I was the only English speaker it was like my own personal tour. Frank, the guide, was interesting and witty and though I thought I'd already covered loads of the centre we were places I'd not been to or we were down we lanes I hadn't noticed. Highlights were the beguine gate - a sort of "commune" for women only which was established about the 16th century I think it was by women who wanted an independant life and didn't want to take holy orders. You can imagine how radical that was for the day. They really only survived as they came from wealthy backgrounds and were able to exert a bit of influence on the town elders. Also ionteresting were the Alms houses and gardens - again built from the estate of a wealthy benefactor to house the needy and old they are now largely under the overseeance of social housing networks and the grounds are maintained by the town council and accommodation is virtually rent free for the needy. Absolutely gorgeous properties in stunning locations. Wonder how TMC Community services would match up?!
My rail journey to Berlin was an experience too - I was in coach 28 seat 88 for the first section of the trip and coach 31 seat 42 for the latter part. It sure puts the wee two coach train we largely get to shame! the trains were also pretty much full - I think it just highlights the different attitude to public transport over here.
Berlin is not, I don't think, an attractive city necessarily but it was fascinating. THe contrasts that exist in the city are stark. While the train station is modern, bright, futuristic and bright the bus station is dull drab grey and a bit out of the way. That about sums up the city -I think I'd expected more redevelopment to have taken place since reunification and the return of its status as nation's capital. Instead while some work has undoubtedly obviously been done, the economic downturn in Germany, and berlin in particular it would seem, has resulted in construction, modernisation and redevelopment works springing up all over the city then grinding to a halt midway through the work. Highlights of Berlin though would certainly include: being at Checkpoint charlie - even with its now tourist status there is enough reverance in the billboard displays around the hoardings where the walls were to make you appreciate what people had to experience at the time, and the stories of some of those who lost their lives. It certainly made me think, and the contrast with the busy modern shopping environment its set amongst is marked; also fascinating is the "Topography of terror" - the site of the headquarters of the SS and gestapo. Now a sobering and sombre exhibition detailing the reich, the people and the effects. Its bleak and abandoned feeling adds to the atmosphere but I couldn't have read all the info there - there is so much it would have become too dark and depressing. the point was well made though. The Holocaust memorial is excellent aswell. An eerie and atmospheric collection of 2711 rectangular concrete blocks (almost coffin like in a way) all of different heights set on undulating land in petty much the cntre of the city. It doesn't sound much but when there the contrasts of shade, texture and size really work together and the point of the memorial is well made without boards with narrative and detail. Finally, the reichstag dome - a very modern glass gome which has been added atop the Bundestag ( the german parliament building). The very traditional stone building has this modern addition which creates a viewing dome over the city, and looks gown onto the plenary hall way below apparently. Having said that I couldn't see down so presumably its not a viewing platform to below only a decoration!
I'm glad I've been to Berlin but I'd say its definitely a city foe its attractions rather than its attractiveness. Anyway its to Warsaw from here. . .
PS sorry about the lack of photos - not been at a cafe yet where I can download and upload the info - just been at basic terminals, but will try to change that soon.
