I arrived at the Istanbul hostel to find countless crazy aussies and
kiwis partying it up before the commencement of their Anzac day tours -
sleeping or drinking with little in between as it was only 22 April.
Aussies dont seem to know any drinking games so random rules made it
even more interesting! Most by the end of the rooftop bar session had
enough trouble speaking let alone rhyming phrases or counting up in 7s.
It was great to be around immediate mates! Checked out the grand
bazaar, and Blue and Sofia Mosques during the day.
I had booked
a tour bus a week earlier leaving at 6:30am on the 24th to Gallipoli
going via the National War Museum, Australian "Lone Pine" memorial, New
Zealand "Chunuk Bair" memorial to Anzac Cove, returning at 3pm on 25
April. Nothing is private in a 26 bed dorm room (i think it used to be
a pub cellar) so when I overheard an Aussie saying he was yet to
receive a confirmation email from his tour company detailing pick up
details I thought I had better logon and check too! I had the same issue and we both managed to work it out with
our respective tour companies expecting to meet up among the thousands
at Anzac Cove. He had the same
lack of itinerary with a plan for eastern europe and Ive been
travelling with Darrin from WA since.
Various uniforms and historical details on the Gallipoli
campaign were on display at the museum. Most memorable was reading letters home to
family members. A more terrifying depiction of what the young soliders
experienced could not be found.
We slowly progressed through the
security including metal detectors and went in search for a vacant
patch of grass to lay our sleeping bags and await the fall of dawn.
Snipers could be seen up in the hills - security protecting the VIPs
was sound. Warren Brown, an Australian cartoonist MC'd the service and
did an exemplorary job! One of those people who talks and tells a story
in such a way that people listen. It was his second time as host and I
hope for future visitors that its not his last. The Australian Defence
Forces performed tunes at half hour intervals throughout the night
(Dad you can await the Gallipoli booklets in the mail - you would have
had the loudest singing voice there and noone would have dared sleep), broken up by numerous documentaries.
During
the day there wasnt a cloud in the sky and the mercury peaked well
above 25c. To say it was cold at night is an understatement. Fully
clothed inside a sleeping bag, most were still freezing only
further demonstrating the conditions. Those who did sleep awoke to
Kevin Rudd's Anzac Day address and most were standing for the
service... although the lack of sleep had taken its toll on a few. I
dont need to desribe the feeling when the last post was played.
Following
the dawn service, Australians and New Zealanders alike
commenced their trek uphill on way toward Military Road where they
would part to their respective countries services. Darrin and I took a
detour via Shrapnel gully memorial and quickly decided that it was possible to
cut through the thick scrub and vegetation beginning with a trench only
a meter deep. Standing at the top of peak named Sphinx from memory, it
was
as though we were the only people for miles. The place was so
serene.... and we were spent. The Australian service at "Lone Pine" was
equally as impressive for those still alert enough. I read the names on
the memorials and graves, surprised by the number of Ryan's who fell in
those tragic 8 months to January 9 1916.
We continued the 3k uphill climb to "Chunuk Bair" for the New
Zealand service which was equally as rewarding. At the end of the
service some Kiwis performed the haka which echoed around the hills. On
the way out I handed out a pretty decent spray on an Aussie... who was
far enough away that I didnt dare do so during the service. Why bother
travelling all the way to Gallipoli then walking all that way just to
talk on your mobile and swear, not stand etc.... a New Zealander doing
that at Lone
Pine would have been killed. I am wrapped that the permission of
alcohol has been banned. This might have resulted in less visitors for
Anzac day but it definitely reduces the number of people you dont want
there in the first place.
The contrast of the mood on the
bus from leaving Istanbul to arriving at Gallipoli best demostrated how
it had touched everyone in their own way.
Most picked up a
couple of hrs sleep and headed straight out upon our arrival in
Instanbul. Two-up in the main bar street was taken to the rooftop bar
at Sultan's once the polici forced us off the blocked street.
Australian "national anthems" sounded strong well into the night...
unlike my voice the following morning. Everyone in a good mood, beers
all round - if you couldnt find something up your alley youve got
problems. A couple of days in Turkey had given me the chance to
research exactly what the country had to offer to a traveller and the
next
couple of wks would prove so.
