Well, friends, to be honest, life in Cusco has been a little rough. But we leave on the Inca Trail bright and early tomorrow, so let us consider that a positive at the moment. [Assumed Editor's Note from my Mother: Please remember as you're reading this that Meghan can get just a tad dramatic at times.]
We recovered fairly quickly from the cramped and whirling bus ride up here, but Eric and I both developed some "traveler's sickness" and difficulty with the altidude on arriving in Cusco. Not knowing this would happen and having stayed at very quiet and not terribly social hostels in Lima, we decided to book the hostel that was described as the "packer's party pad" in the book: Hostel Loki Cusco. Now, if you'd like to stay awake until 4am drinking (and only speak English with Brits, Aussies & Americans), this place is lovely. This was never what we wanted or expected, as "party hostels" Eric's stayed at in the past have respected the ancient tradition of sleep and simply headed out of the hostel at the appropriate hour.
So... after not sleeping (and not getting better) for two nights, we summond the energy to pack up and walk a few blocks to another, quiet, lovely hostel. Hostel Mallqui. There's also a TV in our room, which has been a much appreciated luxury.
We had planned to arrive in Cusco serveral days before our trek since we've heard and read plenty about needing time to acclimate to the altitude. The effects were far more that I expected. Basically, I felt like I couldn't take a full breath for several days, developed a small cough, my heart raced, and I felt wiped out after a small set of stairs or a walk down the hall. On Monday, after our first night at Mallqui when we both felt a bit better, we decided to try to walk around Cusco. We wanted to determine if we were able to do the trek and needed to pay our balance by 7pm that day if we did. After a visit to the main square and a few attempts to find the Peru Treks office, I felt like I was going to faint and/or die. We stopped for lunch as the afternoon rain had just started, and I couldn't really go further. We started talking about not doing the trail and just taking the train up to see Machu Picchu.
We returned to our hostel, and I finally decided to give the altidude sickness pills I had had all along (and was supposed to start the day before going to a high altitude area) a try. (I know. I know. I know. I know.) We watched TV for an hour or two and then decided to try finding the Peru Treks office again, just to talk to them about the situation and learn our options. By the time we reached the end of our block, I realized I wasn't weazing, wasn't asking Eric to slow down, didn't want to die. I was actually walking faster than Eric and was less winded. In less than TWO HOURS! I felt great. We found the office this time, made sure they knew my concerns about how I had been feeling, and paid the remaineder of our bill. We're going, even if they have to drag me off the mountain. Yay!
And then I woke up today with a sore throat. Not too bad, but just another thing.
And then we took our laundry to a store around the corner, and they told us it would be ready at 5pm. We went back at 4:58 and the store was closed. We looked at the bill and the address only gave the street name which was several blocks over, no phone number. We went to that street to try to find it, thinking that maybe you pick up someplace else. No. We asked another laundry service on that block and they sent us back to the first street. Another laundry service was open on that block, so we asked them if they knew if they'd be open later or how to reach them (we leave at 5AM tomorrow) and they said it was closed. We went back to the hostel and ask the hostess. She made some calls to try to track our stuff down with no luck. Let me also explain that at this point I pretty much only had on what I was wearing plus a jacket and a free t-shirt from Peru Treks.
At 7 we decided to go into town to buy some essentials for me: socks, undies, and a spare pair of pants (needed in case it rains). I was half expectint to be mugged the whole time were were out, just because that'd be the cherry on the cake. We were fine. We finally found everything I needed (Eric had enough to get by) and headed back. On the way home, Eric joked, "You know they'll be open now." As we walked by that street, I looked up the hill and their sign was back out. "They're open!" I jumped, mostly happy, but still so, so frustrated. The store owner started apologizing as soon as we walked in. Apparently she had received a few calls about us. She explained that in Peru stores will close for part of the afternoon and reopen later. We knew that can happen, but the other store up the block said she was closed for the day. We told her it was fine; everything worked out. I think she told Eric we didn't have to pay or pay in full, but of course we did. We had our stuff back, and I have some... extras.
We greeted our hostel hostess with our two bags, smiling. She had offered to pick our stuff up tomorrow and put it in storage with our other things here until our return on the 6th, but now she didn't have to. We finished our packing, and here we are. In sum, Cusco for me has been the inside of hostels, whirling assents up paved roads, and perscription medication, and laundry held hostage. Cusco and I have some stuff to talk about, but it'll have to wait, because I have a date with a big ass mountain.
I'm still not feeling 100%, and I don't think Eric is either, but we're certainly on the mend. Our guide assured us, and we've heard from others, that you can go your own pace on the trail and there's a guide who stays with the front and a guide who stays with the caboose. Consider me your little red caboose, and think happy thoughts for me as I chug along.
Pictures when I return!
Love,
Meghan & the guy who deals with all her whining and for some reason still loves her
(Eric doesn't actually read these before I post them, so I can say that.)
