Travels with the King

In many ways, Shanhaiguan will always be the end of the line of my Chinese adventure: the city in Heibe province of northern China was my last stop on a three-month solo journey through China. It was also where you will find the eastern most section of the Great Wall; the head of the dragon that stretches across the country.

Known as the Great Wall mountain pass, the deteriorating stretch of the Great Wall extends into the Sea of China. Such an amazing construction but, to me, it's more amazing that most people have never heard of it before.

In the Beijing North Train station, I found it hard to explain to the ticket agent that I wanted to go north. She kept assuring me that it was Shanghai where I wanted to go, but after three months, had figured out that being stubborn was a way to get things done. Arriving in the town was a struggle but I had finally made it. The desolate farming town, devoid of Western tourists, was cold and lonely in the November evening, but I was excited and eager for where my adventure had led me.

The next morning, instead of taking a bus from town to the coast to see the end of the wall, I chose to walk the few kilometers on top of the wall towards the sea. As I clambered up the wall and made my way to the coast, I found that the view was no match compared with Jinshanling or Mutianyu but at least this was real.

The Shanhaiguan section of the wall was untouched, unlike the heavily visited tourist sections of the Great Wall outside of Beijing. Shanhaiguan has parts of the wall overgrown with trees and weeds and narrowing in sections that tested my sense of balance. The wall had sections that were destroyed in place of roads; tradition being displaced for progress.

The wall led me to the epic joining of the Great Wall and sea where I reflected on my journey - the next day, I was to make my way back to Beijing and then the fight home to put an end on my adventure.

When I decided to explore China, I had only big cities and famous sites in my itinerary. It was only after being in China and experiencing the culture that my eyes were opened to the possible experiences and sights. I soaked in the culture for those three months and appreciated it so much more because I was doing it solo. China was my first trip by myself and has become my preferred way to travel; simple, free, and exposed to whatever may come. Seeing with my eyes and writing with my pen so that I can share with others and inspire them to get out there and do it too.