Walking in Oaxaca

Walking is key to enjoying the ancient city of Oaxaca de Juárez in the mountains of southern México. At level with the essentials look up at brilliant yellow blooms draped over rough quarried stone walls of the Ethnic Botanical Garden. Half a block later exchange a few pesos for a large cup of just-squeezed orange juice. Take a quick sidestep around the texting medical student in the ubiquitous white coat. Catch an earthy scent of fresh corn tortillas cooking on a hardwood charcoal fired comal. As bells of the Santo Domingo church call some to mass, they remind me that my weaving class will be starting in a few minutes.
Passing through massive arches of a former convent into the Museo Textil de Oaxaca(MTO), greetings come from Sol in the small retail shop and from Abram who stands at the reception desk. He knows me from previous visits and sends me past the exhibit galleries to an open roofed workshop. The teacher this time is Norma; she will be helping us to manipulate the traditional backstrap loom while adding the intricate and very colorful designs unique to her Triqui ancestery. Although Norma is, at least, trilingual, she welcomes us in Spanish, the language used for the workshops. Because I am not fluent in Spanish, some of my questions about the process will go unanswered, however the physical part of weaving is not dependent on speaking - the hands don't have ears. As I watch the demonstrations my hands imitate the work. Our class of five learns how to measure the thread for the warp, how to warp the loom, and how to move the beater bar and the heddle, and how to interweave traditional symbols representing birds, mountains, rain, lightening and more of the natural habitat in the mountains a few hours from the city where the Triqui live. At the end of the week I'll have a small piece of fabric and a greater understanding of the difficulty of this art and work. None of us will be expert, but that is not the point. The MTO seeks, as one of its missions, to preserve and spread the knowledge passed down through generations.
To visit Oaxaca and to enjoy the MTO or any of a number of other cultural attractions, fly non-stop from Houston, Texas or change planes in México City or, from México City, take a first-class bus with WiFi and food service through the imposing Sierra Madres. My favorite accommodation is a small posada somewhat like a bed and breakfast about a 20 minute stroll from the MTO. Other options range from hostels to premium.