No explorers would want to miss the first day of snow in Bhutan’s central heartland. As if the Himalayan peaks weren’t enough of a sight, winter delivers a fresh layer of white flakes across its unspoiled townships, bringing to life the virtue of one of the most guiltless regions in the world. A modest society without traffic lights, advertisements or even smoking - which have been banned - means Bhutan offers its visitors an opportunity to see the world in a whole new way.
Only few people ever visit this isolated kingdom and even fewer travel as far as the central district of Bumthang, especially in the brisk height of winter.
There’s never a better time to investigate the sacred secrets within its mountains as seasonably low tourist traffic results in untouched snow and largely undefined trails. Hiking is literally off the beaten track and breathtaking.
My hike to Kuenzang Dra Goupa delivered elevated views of frosted villages but it was an unexpected monk who looked after the historical building that secured my attention. His formal introduction failed to mask the excitement reflected in his eyes. It quickly became obvious that the young man was alone while his peers travelled home for a winter break and we were the first visitors he had received in weeks.
He prepared a pot of tea with the care and attention of a new mother with her child, carefully removing any spots of dust from the weathered utensils and measuring all of the ingredients to create a warm drink his guests would savour. I accepted the kind offering and noted his sincerity and genuine enthusiasm for my company. Through his eyes, my presence at his temple was as unique and intriguing as his existence there was to me.
Bhutan and its people have a reputation for being genuine and hospitable but it's the isolation that defines them. The fact that you can carve your own path through snowy Himalayan scenery previously unexplored by tourists is like nowhere else in the world.
