The train was only an hour late leaving, and it suited me just fine, because instead of arriving at 8am it is 9.00, so plenty of time to look at the scenery once its daylight. Nice comfortable journey, and we arrive at Secunderabad Station, which is the main station for Hyderabad. It looked very clean, with everything nicely landscaped, and rickshaws and taxis very handy, the signage (yes, there was some)also pointing to ATM, which was very useful. I found a rickshaw, whom the guard at the ATM insisted put his meter on, and off we went - all in all a good start, I thought.
I had been troubled with a chest infection and sinus problem, which I had got some ayurvedic medicine for in Delhi, where during my second stay there it started to develop. That darn bus trip from Manali.. It had been working quite well, and I was feeling much better. But the pollution in Hyderabad is quite extreme, and by the time I got to my hotel after a 20 minute trip, was starting to feel a bit clogged up. I have never seen so many rickshaws, buses, cars, trucks and motorbikes blowing so much thick blue or grey exhaust. And the traffic is horrendous! (How do you spell that?)Not such a good start. I checked in, had a cold wash and ordered some nice hot chai and some idli for breakfast, then rested before going for a walk to see my new surroundings. Oh dear, not such a good idea, almost felt I couldn't breathe for the fumes. There is a park with a lake, so got arickshaw there to get some fresh air.
The park is very nice, it has a large children's area, but also surrounding that, is a track with large cars on a track, rather like you see at Easter Shows etc. Both children and adults were having a wonderful time doing the circuit, and I did watching them enjoying themselves so much. There is also an enclosed cricket practice area, where the machine shoots out the balls and you can score (or not!). The only western people I saw during my time in Hyderabad were here having a go at batting, they were British, husband, wife and teenage son. There is also a huge maxi trampoline contraption thing, also very much enjoyed - its a great park. When you've had enough of all that, there are ferries on the lake to take you out to the massive 80metre buddha that is positioned in the lake. When it was being towed there to be installed, it tipped and fell into the lake, staying there for a couple of years until they managed to upright it and install it on the platform. I actually didn't find it particularly attractive, viewing from the edge of the lake, maybe if I had taken the ferry ride I might have seen its true beauty. But the lake itself provides a nice place to go and get some fresh air, as so many families were doing.
On my way back stopped at the Sunday markets, in the main street of Abids, the area in which I was staying. There are quite a few second hand book stalls, and as heavy rain had been forecast for the next few days, I thought I had better stock up. Found a cheap little eating place near my hotel, then settled down for the night. The cyclone that had hit Tamil Nadhu on the east coast was bringing torrential rain to Hyderabad as well, and that night, down it came.
The next morning, the roads, which are in great need of repair, not only all potholes, but craters really, had filled up with water. Such a mess, but at least the rains had eased, so I decided to go and see the things I had planned, mainly in the old muslim area near the river - the Palace, the Maharajah's museum, the huge mosque, and the old city gates, called Charminar, four steeples, and quite impressive. The most beautiful part though is the area by the river, it has the most amazing huge hospital and library on opposite sides of the river. They were built very much with the British influence and rise up from the gardens in which they are set, great domed structures, must find out who the architect(s) were. The British army was here from the middle 1700's to maintain peace from the fighting Nizzams, and to prevent the French from claiming this part of India, which it seems they were determined to do. When you see the palms and lush gardens arising from the river banks, along with the old palace and mosque, it appears quite Middle Eastern. I was sorry that due to the rain, I couldn't walk and explore more, it was back to the hotel and time to get dry for me, before walking to the nearest station to get my ticket for Goa the next evening - ah, another train journey!
I had planned to stay longer but knew I had to get out of that pollution, the walk to the station of 20 mins was amongst all the bumper to bumper noisy, smoking traffic, and not at all pleasant, even though I had my scarf to my nose, it really made no difference.
The next morning was quite sunny, and my last day here, so I hired a rickshaw for 4 hours at the Hotel reception's recommendation to go and see Golconda Fort. They said it was a journey of about 28 kilometres, even though Lonely Planet said 4k. And guess what - it was only about 4 kms before I saw the walls of the Fort rising steeply in front of me - what a surprise! I spent an enjoyable couple of hours walking and climbing and exploring the fort and old palace. The views from the top of the fort were vast, and the perfect place to see the layout of the whole Hyderabad area. It would have been the perfect position to see any enemy approaching, but apparently the rulers of the time used to sit in the great rooftop area to enjoy the beautiful views. The granary, camel houses, armoury and water tanks are all up in the fort, plus the infantry quarters.
From there I could see the exclusive area that I hadn't been able to get to, Bandara Hills, and behind them and to the left was the new cybercity- masses of skyscrapers and glass and steel buildings. I had no desire go and see that, especially when the more pleasing 2 and 3 century old buildings were rising up from the green areas in front of me, all soft and with gentle architecture, including three round roofed tombs of previous rulers of the area.
The palace below the fort has been partially restored, and in fact the artisans were here working. They are doing a wonderful job of giving back the stunning, huge place it was, with great carved arches and insets, replacing the banquet halls, harem area, sleeping areas and kitchens, plus many great covered connecting walkways - it would be nice to see the finished product in years to come. The gardens and fountains are also being replaced.
Once, when it was new, and before the 20th century brought plastic, pollution, and to a degree, laziness, Hyderabad would have been a wonderful city, with the river running through it and the beautiful old buildings amongst the gardens.
So, after a rest at the hotel its time to go to the station, and now it is drizzling again, the traffic is crazy and I am so happy to be leaving this place - for sunny Goa!
