After exploring all the options, I was happy that I decided to travel from Haldwani to Nainital by taxi. We did have to go the long way round, 65 kms, taxi cost 350rup. My driver pointing out Hospitals and hotels and municipal places as we went along the straight towards the hills. So I was staying near the main centre after all, and there were lots of hotels around mine. He pointed out where the main bus stand and the Railway was - I knew we were being ripped off in the rickshaw from the station to the hotel on Sat morning 50rup! I went all the way to the taxi stand for 5, in a shared rickshaw.
We started to climb up into the Mountains almost as soon as we left Haldwani,its a lovely scenic drive, initially looking back down to the river and seeing where it widens out as it goes, then all the mountains around. There was plenty of evidence of landslides on this road also, and we were held up for half an hour because part of the road was only one way, and lots of traffic using it. We passed through a small town called Bhimtal with a lovely soft green lake, part of the chain of lakes around this area. Further along my driver suggested we do a little detour to a place called Sattal, another of the lakes of importance in the Mahabharata (sp), where Shiva flew on his way to escape the Pand.... . It is a few kms off the beaten track, winding down to a beautiful little deep Jade lake set amongst the mountains - quite isolated, but it is a holiday place for Indians, and has the usual boats and little restaurants plus a rather nice looking hotel (government run).
We arrived in Nainital (1930 metres) after 4 hours, including stops. It is very beautiful - the town is set all around the Lake, which again is a lovely Jade green, with the mountains rising up. There was a major landslide in 1880, where a hotel and 150 people came to an end. They flattened the area, and it is now a sports ground, with some markets all around. Nainital is a very romantic place - you need someone to share it with - still no Europeans tho!
The main shopping area - the Bazaar is just below my room, so rather noisy, but its very nice. Lots of little lanes with the usual shops along the slopes. It reminds me a bit of Shimla, without the steep roads and steps. I had bowls of Dahi (curd) at the Complete Milk Bar a few times, it was the best I had had anywhere. Diet has been very light at the moment, mainly bananas(those lovely sweet Indian bananas), fresh orange juice, a type of potato patty, lassis,and ah - a lovely chai. Its quite hot here in the main part of the day. Around midday the clouds and mist swirl around the hills and the lake. They move and dissipate so quickly at times, that I don't get a chance to get the camera out, and they are gone. It does look rather mystical at times. Later it all clears away again leaving lovely sunshine to be able to promenade along the Mall.
Took a ride on a boat on the lake, its kind of the thing you have to do - very relaxing(110 rupees for half hour)
Didn't get much sleep last night again - those damn dogs! But at least I didn't get woken with the drilling above me today. Maybe they got the message.
Today 28/9 went up in the cable car to Snow view, which takes you up to 2230 metres, and then you have to walk another couple of minutes up to the top, which has a telescope (5rup) to view Nanda Devi. Got a bit breathless walking up at this altitude. As soon as I got to the top it was wow, even before I used the telescope. Such a great view of the Himalayas, even though they are 120 kms away.
Then Goodbye Nainital,off to the bus station in a cycle rickshaw. I had a feeling that the bus I saw pulling out, from amongst the 10 or so there, was the Bhowali bus, but some guys pointed down another road. I started to walk down, saw the bus coming behind me and then asked someone else and they said that's the bus right there - so my travel angel was looking after me again.
It was a lovely bus trip here, 3 hours from Nainital, had to get bus to Bhohali, half an hour (one was just leaving!) And then bus from there leaving 15 mins after I got there. Had to be firm with the young Indian guy I was sitting next to - his hand kept trying to wander, so when the bus emptied a bit I moved. Pity no buses from here today, would have been nearly there by now.
The area had been seriously hit from the rain, landslides everywhere every couple of hundred metres in places, they are doing a great job clearing it, but a lot of places only one way. The road to Almora is still closed . After Bhohali we went through very steep mountainous roads, with drops straight down the ravines to the rivers a lot of the way. We did crawl along in places (fortunately) as parts of the road were looking very dodgy - but a good driver. Very dusty drive too.
It is seriously beautiful country though. After we had a lunch stop at 2.15 in a valley (couldn't eat, it was a very rough ride - bottoms leaving the seat in places) - the scenery changed to hillsides, rising high terraces, then higher still with pine trees and grassy meadows with cows grazing on the steep slopes all the way to Ranikhet. There is a big military base here, and old hill stations from the British era.
Ranikhet is an ok town, not somewhere you would want to hang around. My hotel is in the bazaar area, so noisy with traffic, and probably dogs all night, oh well.... Nice views though, straight across to Nanda Devi.
Will be glad to get to Bageshwar, leaving at 9.00am, and hopefully have a days rest. This internet place has no facility for uploading my pictures, so don't know when I will get to do that.
