Battambang. 16 - 18 Sept
We stayed only 1 day - 2 nights in Battambang. On initial impressions it seemed a pleasant little place, maybe call it traveler fatigue, but as we walked about it felt more sad & dreary. Groups of boys sitting around the riverside sniffing on bags of presumably glue. A well dressed man greeted us enthusiastically in English, wanting us to support his school. Funds to assist orphans & homeless people. It appeared legitimate, but why are there not funds from one of the many NGOs?
All reports from locals, expats, newspapers, etc indicate the rampant levels of corruption. Money is siphoned off. Not least by the government itself! Public schools & hospitals all cost the consumer, as staff are not paid a living wage, therefore bribe for all services.
A little further along we came across the local museum exhibiting many sandstone statutes, deities, lintels & steles from the 9 -11th century. Many from the Angkorian area & era. What was more disturbing was the irregular and sometimes large pools of dark red coloration on the tiled floor which turned out to be blood from the Pol Pot era 1975-79. Obviously people were gunned down were they stood.
The one day we had was full. We employed a tuk tuk driver who seemed quite knowledgeable with good English and a careful driver to boot.
We headed out into the country passing silk farms and floating villages we had already experienced at previous locations and arrived at the " bamboo railway". What a fun experience. A set of railway tracks in a straight line, but buckled & bent. A set of wheels placed on the track, then a flat bamboo platform to seat up to maybe 6-7 people including the driver. The 6.5 hp stationery engine strapped on the back. The two of us plus our driver in place and we were off.
We roared along at a great speed which was actually probably less than 50kph, until we reached the end of the line into the arms of locals, so to speak, who worked hard on us for 20 minutes or so, to attempt to sell scarves, refreshments etc. Amazingly in this small village many of the children had an excellent command of English mainly from contact with tourists. We did have fun chatting with the kids who were between 11 and 13years, listening to the great things they aspired to.
Back in the tuk tuk to Phnom something (I can't remember the name of the sacred hill) to climb a limestone mountain in the middle of miles and miles of dead flat fields as far as the eye could see. We climbed straight up eroding concrete stairs, past monks, a small village, monkeys of all sizes and a Monastery/ temple to the top and down again in about 45 minutes to one hour. We met a monk with one leg at the top of the mountain. He was keen to compare prostheses which was interesting as we were unable to speak to understand each other.
At the bottom again our driver greeted us, indicating we wait awhile for the next adventure. Over a very welcome cold beer we discovered a bunch of 20 something guys had taken bike rides up & down. Shame on them. No wonder all the locals thought it was too far & too steep for us!
The highlights of Siem Reap, Cambodia;
- The 'Old Market’ and surrounding area of bars and restaurants.
Hours of fun just roaming and sometimes buying. It is unbelievable the huge supply of absolutely everything, always concentrated in specified areas. eg Stores & stores with scarves, bed covers & table cloths. This makes for good bargaining capacity as you can check out prices which are usually triple to quadruple on the first inquiry. Then you can know what price range to settle for? How they turn over the stock is a mystery? I have to remember that this kind of negotiating is not practiced in NZ when I go home.
- Visiting a local "Rehab / prosthetic / orthotic centre",
This was run by an NGO until Jan 2013. There was not a lot of action on the 2 days we visited due to the extreme funding cuts. They can now only offer services to a fraction of the people, not only amputees, but also kids with club feet, cerebral palsy and other conditions / disabilities.
It was Interesting to see the rehab area an outdoor obstacle course of steps, rocks and swing bridges. The prosthetic s & equipment such as wheelchairs, crutches, walking and standing frames reminded me of NZ before I became an OT. They do such great work and show wonderful enthusiasm. We talked to a new AKA (Above Knee Amputee), an attractive 20yr old girl who came off second best to a scooter. I hope I gave her a little hope and inspiration.
- 'Beatocello concert' - 'Kantha Bopha Children's Hospital'
One evening we attended a one man cello concert at the largest children's hospital. The focus of the concert every Saturday night is to raise the profile of 'Kantha Bopha' and to raise desperately needed funds to continue to save children. We were so inspired we dug into our wallets to make a donation & I bought one of his books.
Beat Richner, is a Swiss Paediatrician, who worked in Phnom Penh as a young Paediatrician until the rise of the Khmer Rouge. He returned to Zurich where he ran a private practice and lived a comfortable lifestyle. His decision to return to Cambodia and set up a hospital was to be a short term project. Twenty 20 years on he continues to work day and night to keep all 5 "Kantha Bopha" children's hospital running efficiently without any reliance on the government. He is a truly amazing man. He is openly critical of the government corruption, the non-existent public health system & of the WHO & International aid organisation; policies and misappropriation of funds. Annually these hospitals save the lives of 90,000 children.
- Khmer (Cambodian) cooking
All the way along our journey I promised myself this opportunity and finally we had enough days with space. Many courses are on offer throughout Asia, but as a result of asking a woman in a busy authentic restaurant, I was given the opportunity for a 1:1 session the following day. It only cost the menu value of the meals I prepared. It was quite an amazing experience. We started with a brief tour of the market. That, together with in depth discussions about accessing and growing specific ingredients like the tamarind root used in 'Pad Thai' also for a Cambodian dish to make 'Spicy Amok Curry Paste' and mango salad dressings. The challenge will be to find these in NZ. I'm hoping that the ever expanding Asian markets in Auckland will offer the ingredients needed.
- "Haven" a training/teaching restaurant
We enjoyed an outstanding meal with outstanding service which was only a little more expensive than many other restaurants. Given we were generally both eating for about US$5 a meal. A Swiss couple set this business up about 2 years ago with the expectation of empowering these young people (homeless or orphans) to enable them to go out & start their own businesses.
This is yet another organisation set up to address the needs of orphans & homeless kids. Based in Battambang, the school offers a basic education focusing on the arts; painting, music, gymnastics and acrobatics. Such talent!! It is worth a look online, http://www.pharecambodiancircus.org.
We loved attending the evening circus show. The energy and enthusiasm palpable, especially from our prime seats in the front row which was virtually on the stage.
- Angkor temples - 3 full days over 4
We hired a lovely tuk tuk driver, Poly. I happened to stop in the entrance to his shop, one of many "Rehab stores" selling handicrafts made by people with disabilities.
He was a great driver who also transported us to a couple of events. He provided us with a whole chilly bin / cooler full of very welcome water for the temple tours and for the last day picked us up at 5am so that we could see Angkor Wat at sunrise.
The proliferation of temples built over a huge geographical area between the 9th through the 12th century is absolutely awesome and has to be seen, hiked around and clambered up and over to be believed. We walked for miles and miles. Starting out at 8am and home at 5 - 6pm. That is except on our last day for which we reserved the prize viewing of Anchor Wat at sunrise. Photos do no justice.
And lastly.... I hope the dental work I had done will continue to be a bonus. It was very professional and exceedingly cheap. Bob is now wishing that he'd taken the plunge. I had a crown made as well as x-rays and a clean all for a fraction of the cost of work here.
Thailand - 27- 30 Sept
'Ayutthaya' First capital of Siam (Thailand)
Our trip to Ayutthaya was long but reasonably smooth. Another early start with pick up from our hotel the "Shadow of Angkor" at 5.30am.
The road to the Thai border, a raised causeway above rice farms, is rutted and in places completely collapsed. Many of the houses along the way were surrounded by flood water, tracks between homes and the road under water. For miles and miles it seemed that the rural people were attempting to cope with the flooding and a number were out in the paddy fields up their necks in water, pulling in fishing nets.
After 4 hours of bumping and bouncing along, racing past people walking their cattle, bicycles, scooters, some with trailers ( a large pig standing fills up the whole trailer, unaware of his fate), rickshaws, scooters, farm machinery, cars and trucks. (the motorised vehicles playing a dangerous dance coming from both directions in the middle section of the road. W we arrived at the very grubby looking border town of Piopet. Street markets are humming. Pigs arriving at market early are displayed on tables already butchered, their heads at one side.
We were unceremoniously disembarked and sent on our way toward the border, About a 8-900m walk through muddy streets. The path improved as we approached the Thai border, out of the mud and into a tile floored building. Immediately everything looks more affluent. The mud & waterlogged fields either side of the highway gives way to dry fields and businesses. The wide 2 lane highway is well maintained, has clear white & yellow lines, Large signs, traffic lights and traffic (ie motorised vehicles only) behaving as one would expect in the Western world. In other words lanes are obeyed and indicators predict movement from one lane to another.
Once in Bangkok we made our way to the Hua Lamphong railway station in time to purchase a 3rd class ticket (15Baht each or about us$0.50!) get some lunch ($5 for both) then took the 11/2hour train trip to Ayutthaya.
Between 1350 & 1767. 33 Kings ruled over this once dazzling & dynamic Asian city
Ayutthaya is an interesting and very historic city. Build on an island, on the Chao Phraya river, which flows south through Bangkok to the ocean. I'm guessing additional water ways were constructed to create this moat effect. For over 400 years it was the thriving capital of Siam (Thailand) and a pivotal international port and trading centre which opened relations with many Asian, middle Eastern, then European countries And as Ayutthaya demonstrated tolerance to other cultures and religions people from many places settled here.
On day one we visited the floating market which is a very much sanitised tourist hangout built on wooden board walks over the river edge. A complete contrast to all markets previously visited. Food safety certificates prominently displayed which is also the case in the night market.
Later we set off on our walking familiarisation. First we came across the Thai Boat Museum down an alley of large gated homes. An elderly woman came out to invite us in. Fascinating! A huge collection of wooden boats from small models to full sized junks in the tree shaded garden. Such a lovely couple, in their 80s - 90s. He continues to design and built miniatures and is proud to show us his national awards for teaching boat building and his connection with the King who has a keen interest in building and sailing.
and took in Wat Mahathat. One of the most visited/ photographed. It appears to have been a very significant Wat/ temple or palace in its day. We hired a headset which gave interesting information.
Ayutthaya was built in the 13th century & this Wat in 1374 after the fall of the Khmer civilisation and Angkor Wat. Many of the temples and Palaces were modelled on the Angkorian era and some of the building materials were salvaged from Angkor, Cambodia.
Ayutthaya was invaded by the Burmese in 1767. Apparently due to a previous invasion and threat of attack the Royal family were frightened and hid, closing off the community & effectively creating societal decline making them increasingly more vulnerable to an aggressor. As anticipated the Burmese raped and plundered, rounded up royalty together with professionals and trades people resulting in the demise of the society.
Sometime later the capital was re-established in Bangkok. The existing luxuriant Royal Palace in Bangkok used many of the bricks from Ayutthayas Temples and palaces and their once protective walls, in its foundation, leaving behind crumbling shells here in Ayutthaya.
We paid to visit Wat Mahathat, but many of the dozens of Wats we have seen within the "island city" (which is completely surrounded by the river), appear to be only crumbling foundations, open to the current city of Ayutthaya.
Day two we set out late morning on a scooter hired from our hotel. We headed off the island. Although Ayutthaya is not a big city the maps we had were pretty inadequate.
We headed east of the inner city, out over one of the few bridges to Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon. A more intact structure on immaculate grounds.
We turned to the south to visit the "foreign quarter." Up to 40 ethnic groups settled here. First the Portuguese in 1511, then the Dutch, British and Japanese. The Japanese village / museum was interesting & very informative about the inclusion and influence of a range of groups on Thai culture.
The Dutch Village was difficult to locate as it is only one modern visitors centre. They displayed extensive information about Holland and made a great cup of coffee. Upstairs there was a display relating to the Dutch settlement in Thailand (Siam) but being the cheapskates we are we didn't pay to see it. And the Portuguese Village proved too hard to find.
We then returned to the inner city, once we found the bridge and enjoyed a Circuit along the river back to our hotel.
Both nights we went to the Night market. All completely set up & disassembly daily. And of course I had to follow Bob who is driven by his nose for food. Excellent food! Tonight we had a hot pot sitting together with a young Seattle couple who teaching for 2 years in China.
A small ceramic pot atop a self-standing brazier of burning coals was placed on the table with its plastic tablecloth, in front of us. A plate of meats marinating in sauce and another plate of veggies were spooned into the boiling water & the lid placed on top. Left to boil for 5 minutes or so before serving together with chilli sauce on the side. Further temptations - huge seafood omelettes cooked on a huge hot plate, sushi and many sweet treats including fresh sliced fruits, mangos and sticky rice. Yum.
Bangkok 30 Sept - 2 October
We met Ali and Eugene for my last few days in Asia before they headed to India for their big trip.
It was great to see them and to explore a little. Another visit to China town then relaxing boat rides up and down the river which is a great way to escape the heat. The day ended with a pleasant dinner and cocktails at a riverside restaurant to celebrate my 60th birthday. YES! 60! Shock horror, how did I get to be so old!
We had a leisurely morning in the quaint dining room of the Hotel Atlanta before heading for the airport.
HOME – Bob Phuket 3 more weeks
It was good to get home. I had a busy time in Auckland researching and buying a new computer, sorting a potential new socket at the limb centre, catching up with friends and getting over jet lag.
It was a wonderful surprise to have Anneke meet me at the airport. She looks fabulous and is doing well coming through from her injuries. We continued to celebrate my birthday with champagne sitting in the sun looking out at the beautiful west coast ocean at Piha.
I have now been home in Russell for a month and it feels somehow like I never left. Surprisingly the work is flowing in thick and fast and I have hardly had time to draw breath.
Bob has been home 2 weeks and we are getting back into our day to day life here in the Bay of Islands.
So farewell blog…. No more time to write. One day I hope to turn this into an album of sorts to remember our adventures.
