Out the window of the trans-Siberian buildings and towns begin to cluster tighter together and train staff begin to buzz as if coming out of hibernation. the two headed eagle on the Russian coat of arms we are told later by a guide looks to the east and to the west, and after five days aboard the train we are at our destination – gateway between Asia and Europe.
The suburbs of Moscow surround as we get closer to the centre but there is some huffing and puffing by train staff over a coffee stain on one of our sheets. Language barriers prevent us from being able to explain that surely the sheets will be washed anyway but we understand them when they say “fine”. We wash the sheet with a bar of soap in a tin pail bucket, say goodbye to our little cabin and disembark.
Our guide, Marina, meets us on the platform and leads us through an unremarkable train station into a palatial subway station. Chandeliers hang from the ceiling and gilded colonnades reach down to the floor with impressive grandeur – far away from any subway station I have ever seen, or train station or palace.
I had many expectations about Russia – a place where the people would be cold and bereft, unwelcoming – a century of political upheaval. After only a few hours, expectations are being smashed. They are a serious people but altogether welcoming and beautiful, strangers going out of their way to lead us to supermarkets and making sure it has everything we would want.
But they are serious; in red square, an old man in an old jacket stares in deep contemplation into the sky, hands clasped behind his back and I think what a pleasure it would be just to listen to what he has to say. We take our photos of the beautiful cathedral of St Basil – the colourful one on all the postcards and it is just as beautiful, before going to an unassuming bar. We order a few snacks and drinks and without much ado our guide asks “would we be able to marry a woman who earns than us”. I’m only visiting and know what I see is not always the whole picture but I like to think that this is one of many lunch time conversations going on in Russia at the moment, substantial and far removed from the daily lives of celebrity.
The next day we return to red square and enter the walls of the Kremlin which translates to the fortress. I know the word for Russia or Russian in Australian sign language is also a clenched fist. Serious. The Kremlin was the old home of the tsars and now holds the presidential residence and within its red walls are five palaces and four cathedrals, as well as so much history.
Located close to red square though is another chapter in Russian history – the gulag museum. The gulag, which administered forced labour camps around Russia is where millions where sent for petty crimes or as political prisoners.
In the museum – seemingly rare original photos are displayed along side doctored ones made publicly available. Always Joseph Stalin is displayed in a positive light while many others have had faces and bodies completely removed, from photos and from history. There are quotes attributed to Stalin,’Death solves all problems, no man no problem’. It is chilling to think also that KGB operatives were to assume a certain number of spies and thus had a quota they had to meet of spies caught – either they were found or created out of the regular population and then promptly sent away.
We leave.
Our guide, Marina, later tells us that Moscow is changing. I think back to Beijing and the scale of changes that are happening there. “Yes’ Marina continues “The Moscow of ten years ago is very different to what you see here and in ten years from now it will be different again.
For history buffs and lovers of good conversation, it is a must go travel destination.
Change seems to be a matter of course for Russia and it is currently in an uneasy political situation with the Ukraine and as a result several other nations around the world including the united states and the Australian department of foreign affairs recommends a high degree of caution if you are going.
