A Suitcase Heart

Traveling south by sea for two weeks, I accompanied my family and a family friend, who affectionately calls himself One-Armed-Bob, on his catamaran for Christmas and New Years of 2009. We docked in the small fishing village of La Cruz de Huanacaxtle, on the Pacific Ocean's Bahía de Banderas in the state of Nayarit, 25 kilometers north of Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco. We took day trips to an exquisite, isolated waterfall at the top of a mountain in Jelapa; went snorkeling - a new adventure for me; and rode a bus crowded with locals to Sayuleta to experience the local art! I fell in love with crystal cool waters, hot crowded buses, and the unfamiliarity of communicating using language other than common words. On Christmas Eve morning, after a short trek up the cobblestone street from the sea, we spent the entire day and night at Philo's Cantina in La Cruz. The potluck lunch and dinner, brought together by the entire village and sailors from around the world, was the most delectable, authentic food that I have ever experienced! I savored each bite, stuffing myself until the dog on my lap took my plate, letting me know I was done. We mixed with locals and enjoyed the festive music of Philo and the indigenous musicians; I danced with strangers who felt like friends, and soaked it all in. As the sun began to set, I noticed a line of children wrapping its way around the block, when Santa appeared. For hours, he sat on the stage, while one by one, the village kids hurried into the open air cantina to share their Christmas wishes on his lap. The villagers and sailors had worked together to create goodie-bags from treasures the sailors brought to Philo’s year round for Santa to give the children and expectant parents. Each and every child received a bag - crayons and coloring books, soccer balls and jacks. Such a beautiful sight to see these children so happy to get what would have insulted most Americans, and a moment of perspective for me as a young adult. Eventually, the neat line of anxious children dwindled, and I got my chance to sit on Santa's lap. At 19, it was an awkward but priceless moment; being my first trip away from home at Christmas, I had to make sure Santa knew where to find me! By nightfall, the entire street was full of children playing with new toys from Santa, while their parents and the town’s elders enjoyed the drinks, food, and music of Philo's. The joy and sense of community was invigorating for a girl stuck in Middle-American melancholy.