It is June 17th now and I would say that I am beginning preparation as wisely as I can for the journey that I am going to embark on in two months from now but the truth is that I have been preparing for this moment all of my life- especially in the last nine-teen years that I have known my passion- mountaineering!! Most people do not know their own passions but for me it is the harmonious union that I encounter when I enter the mountains. I love the hardships and the rewards that accompany mountaineering. I can think of no better way to truly get in touch with oneself. I know people achieve this transcendental state through many channels but for me it is the inward journey that I have to take through focus and surrender when I submerge myself into the infinite physical world that big mountains provide. "In the mountains worldy attachments are left behind and in the absence of material distractions I am opened up to spiritual thought. I will attempt to carry the spiritual experience of the mountains with me everywhere". In this day and age I don't think there is anytime to waste. I personally feel as though I have to LIVE MY OWN DREAMS! now and forever. Ascending the great peaks is what I was born to do and trained to do- it is indeed my destiny! One day I hope my son Owen is proud to know that his father pursued his passions relentlessly in the name of spiritual enlightenment and although discouraged, never compromised! Peace and strength to mankind in breaking the reigns of oppression and the shackles of fear!!!
It is August 19th. Today is a great day!! Tommorrow my climbing partner of 7 years- ZenJen and I set out on what could very well be the adventure of a lifetime! My only reservations are that in preparation we did not accomplish more this summer in the mountains of Wyoming and Colorado. I am very fortunate to have met Jen and had her enthusiastic and undying energy accompany me into the mountains hundreds of times. By trade she is a concert violist, a music therapist, an instructor of viola, violin, and piano, a doctor of Oriental medicine and now a quite accomplished rock-climber and mountaineer. I have never trusted anyone more with my life and feel completely confident in her abilities and strength and frankly could not respect her more. 2007 saw a streak of 17 straight summits in Wyoming, Colorado and Mexico. A heavy snow year has made for a short summer in the high country of Colorado. Also, I have been suffering from long time wear and tear on my body resulting from the life I have lived as an athlete. Most recently it has been my feet that have hurt me and prevented me from climbing more. I have curtailed my training to prevent futher injury but as a result am not in the shape I prefer at this juncture. The good news is the cortisone injection I received yesterday in my right that foot gives me renewed hope. There were many times that I achieved the greatest accolades of my life on mostly heart, determination and sheer will. These qualities I have never wanted for. And a magnificent life full of many great accomplishments it has been! Whether in the colds of high Alaska, in the Ecuadorian Andes, the interior of Mexico or here in the glorious wilds of the Sierra, Cascade, and Rocky Mountains, the list is long! It is redundant to state the obvious lesson we should all have learned in this short, sweet life but it is - about "THE JOURNEY"! The mountain is the means and man is the end. It is not about conquering the mountain but bettering the man. I will not see my son for five weeks and that is the hardest part of this expedition. Someday though -when he and I ascend the peaks together and I share my tales of the tall hills with him- these moments will be priceless. He will know who his father is, and more importantly, who he is not! This is not a win or lose proposition, rather a sojourn of the soul. So, join me on this journey to the depths of humanity and to the glorious beauty that only a caring and loving god could have created- The Bolivian Andes!!!!
Today is August 21 and after the most harrowing flight of my life from Charlotte to Miami, a 10 hour layover, and flying all night, I am in La Paz. Tropical storm Faye wreaked havoc on Miami International Airport requiring three seperate approaches by our aircraft. Once we even had our landing gear down before having to pull up. So far La Paz reminds me of every third world country I have visited- quaint, charming, friendly, but desperate. The language barrier is clearly going to be an obstacle- as always. My Spanish is sketchy at best. Situated at over 12,000 ft La Paz is one of the highest cities in the world. The highest cities in the world are Potosi in Bolivia and Lhasa in Tibet-both at around 13,500 ft. It is a gorgeous day here. There is a school right behind the hotel and the sights and sounds of the children playing are a constant reminder to me that there is a common thread that runs through us all. The innocence and carefree nature of a child is a beautiful thing! If only we could stay young and free of the worries and the injustices that are placed upon us all by a corrupt ruling class. Perhaps the innate desire to climb mountains is only a metaphor for the mountains we must all ascend over the course of a life-time. For these Bolivian children they must accept their place in a world that should be well off and not one of poverty. European white supremists have exploited the vast reserves of natural resources here which include natural gas, tin mines and some of the largest silver mines in the world. The natives have been given new names, titles and all but stripped of their cultural identity- all for economic gain and greed. Sound familiar? Historians would argue that it is the silver from Bolivian mines that to a large degree is responsible for European dominance. See July 2008 National Geographic for more on that subject. I am off to explore town but I guess that my lesson for the day is that regardless of the tyranny and oppression that we all face everyday -in one way or another- is that life and love will prevail. HOPE will always find a way!
August 22. Another gorgeous day in La Paz. The name "La Paz" translates to "lady of peace". Compared to my last climbing trip in South America it is certainly peaceful and calming. There are only a few policemen toting machine-guns here as opposed to on every corner in Ecuador. The last two days I have been combing the artesans booths learning what is available and how to negotiate here. The textiles- hand-woven by the Aymara indigenous peoples- are clearly the best quality items around. The markets are adjacent to the Iglesia de San Francisco. Built in 1547, the Catholic Church Of San Francisco- named after Saint Francis of Assissi- is very typical of third world cathedrals by its Baroque style, primitive nature and gold-leaf adornments. After a full tour of the church I was left in awe and intend to attend mass there tommorrow. Between this church and having seen the Shrine of Guadalupe- the most religious place to Catholics outside of Rome- in Mexico while climbing Citlaltepetl in January, I am starting to think I am on some sort of inadvertant religious pilgramage. Maybe I am not a mountain climber at all but rather a nomadic Jesuit monk searching for a higher order!LOL!! There was an amazing art display in the church where textiles were incorporated into the paintings- very representative of the local artists and environment. Also, there were many paintings from the 16th and 17th century displayed through out the church that represented several different schools of art. I knew ahead of time the reputation of Bolivia and it's association with the Coca plant but I had no idea how much a part of the society it is and how important- not as an illegal drug in it's refined state- but strictly from a cultural perspective it is. It is served in the form of Coca tea, Coca liquor, Coca cookies, Coca pie, Coca almond cake- which is quite tasty I might add, Coca iced tea, Coca coffee, Coca Bubba-Gump shrimp and even Coca beer. You heard correctly- Coca beer! It is green and reminds you of St Patricks Day. I am staying in a four star hotel -$54 dollars a night- and Coca tea is served when you check in, at breakfast, dinner, and even while using the computer if you should so choose. I even toured the Coca museum today! Fascinating place!! Not to worry though, I still have not acquired a taste for Coca but find it absolutely bizzarre. The street vendors and people are very friendly and easy to deal with as opposed to other countries I have visited- a very pleasant surprize! There is always some remorse when you are only browsing and people seem really dissappointed when you don´t buy anything. My contibution-other than boosting the local economy spending Bolivianos- the local currency(7 to 1 dollar)- is the jumbo bag of Dum Dum lollipops I brought. Handing them out to young children along the streets really seems to make their day however reluctant they are to accept anything for free. I learned this trick visiting Mexico in January.... Lesson for the day- A small gesture of kindness goes a long way!
It is Saturday night August 23 in La Paz. So far my acclimatization is going very well. I am not drinking any alcohol and consuming mass amounts of water. To be at over 12,000 feet the plan is going extremely well. Today was uneventful as the majority of the day I spent reading -Into Thin Air by Jonathan Krakauer. Good read- I still never saw the movie. If I was to write my own book this evening it would be titled -Into A Bolivian Wedding. All day the intention was to attend mass tonight at the Church Of San Francisco. Upon arrival I saw the priest at the entrance to the cathedral. I asked "¿Que ahora es mass senor?"-what time is mass?. He replied "En diez minutos"- in ten minutes. So I scrambled in this breath-taking place and couldn't help but notice how nicely everyone was dressed. I wanted to make sure I could see what was happening during the procession so naturally I chose a seat near the front. I noticed a well appointed Mariache band come in and set up. Wow! I thought, mass must be a real hoot. The lady in front of me turned around and muttered something about cincuenta anos -seventy years. Suddenly the band broke into the wedding march. Not only was I at a traditional Bolivian wedding but also sitting on the brides side and had I been any closer would have been sitting with the family. It turns out the groom was 70 years old. Here I am in street clothes, dishevelled hair and three weeks of scraggly beard on my face and sitting with the brides family in an entirely Bolivian congregation. Did I get up and leave? Not a chance! I stayed for the entire hour ceremony, sang and prayed with the family, shook hands with everyone around me at the end and even went up front for communion. The look on the priests face when I opened my mouth so he could put the cracker in was priceless. Almost as good as when the nuns came around with their coiffeurs for money. I don't know if the money was for the church or the couples honeymoon but I gave them everything in my pocket. Just wait until the bride and groom are surveying their wedding pictures and a couple of Gringo vagabonds are in them -shocker! You just never know how your day might turn out! With all due respect it was a very nice experience in a gorgeous and sacred place- the circumstances were simply comical. It seems as though Jen has gotten a touch of stomach bug already- luckily a very mild case though! We eat most of the same things and avoid water and water-borne foods but somehow everyone ends up getting sick- it is an eventuality. We both are carrying very replete first aid kits with all the essential meds however. There really is not much to report today as it was a rest day. It is fun to watch the Brady Bunch in Spanish though having seen every episode about fifty times and remembering all the storylines- I just follow Jan's facial expressions. Lesson for the day- the Lord works in mysterious ways!
It is Domingo August 24th, and yet another perfectly beautiful day in Bolivia! Today I realized -and after reading that the average annual temperature is 64 degrees- how similar the weather is here to the Front Range of Colorado. Brilliant sunshine nearly everyday- thus one of the many reasons for choosing the Cordillera Real as the ideal setting to climb in throughout South America. The Altiplano of the Cordillera Real is the highest mountain plateau in the world outside of Tibet in Asia. I have been covering a lot of ground in La Paz on foot and so far my feet are holding up well. Naturally, it is in the back of my mind that I will not hold up through four or five mountains- with the most severe- Nevado Illimani 21,210 feet- as the conclusion. After breakfast today I headed back down the Paseo El Prado(main street) again- as everyday. Today the street was closed off and there was a huge music and arts festival going on. I purchased a beautiful oil painting of Illimani in a hand carved frame for two hundred Bolivianos- $28. I had to disassemble it to get it home. I am pretty much shopped out now having bought a couple beautiful rugs- hand woven in Potosi by Haquayo indigenous people. It is hard to converse with the natives because they have a tremendous wad of Coca leaves in their mouths at all times. The goods of the artesans here are supreme. After cruising the market I walked up to the Plaza Murillo. This is the center of the city and where all the amazingly beautiful colonial government buldings are situated. The seat of Bolivian government is in La Paz although the capital is Sucre. I am starting to encounter other climbers from all over the world. One in particular from Ecuador, named Pablo, who is world-class. He just returned from climbing the Codoriri Cabeza(condors head) in the Condoriri region where we are headed at the end of the week. Pablo informed me that in Ecuador they no longer use their own currency-the Sucre- but now only exchange US dollars- which I find very odd. I am really getting restless and ready to get into the mountains and out of the city. Being able to see Nevado Illimani looming 9,000 vertical feet above the city is taunting me. There are good reports on the weather and conditions! This is excellent news as winter is ending- as well as the climbing season in the next few weeks. It is difficult to explain the weather and seasons here. Technically it is winter in the Southern Hemisphere. However due to Bolivia's proximity to the Equator -and determined by altitude- March through September is climbing season and considered summer in the higher regions. It is complicated to understand and more so to describe. At any rate the seasons will be changing soon and it is time to climb! We just received news today that 8 climbers have perished on the north face of Mount Blanc in France- bad news for the climbing community. This is second only to the 11 lost on K2 in Pakistan only a few weeks ago. But there is no true adventure without danger and I believe life is meant to be lived bravely or not at all. Tommorrow I have arranged for a private guided trip to visit Tiahuanaco -an ancient Mayan archaeological site near Lake Titicaca that is over 3200 years old and recently being excavated. The Aymara people believed it to be the center of the world and historians believe this Pre-Columbian site to be the most significant precursor to the entire Inca civilization. Lake Titicaca is the highest navigable lake in the world at 12,507 feet above sea-level and borders Bolivia with Peru. Todays lesson- People all over the world are the same regardless of color, religion, ethnicity or any of the divisions that the mass media perpetuate and lead people to believe exist and that are significant in any way...Set aside your fears and prejudices and seize the day!!!
August 25th, Monday. Just returned from a full day at Tiahuanaco. This was the first time I have left La Paz and seen the countryside. I must start by discussing the perros(dogs). Perro translates to lousy, rotten, stray dog. When I was climbing in Ecuador twelve years ago I could never get the image of the packs of wild dogs running around scavenging for food and the neccessity to carry my ice-axe with me for protection through the villages out of my head- these were hungry dogs! Until today I had not seen the same in Bolivia. They are everywhere in the countryside and appear to be the strangest mixes I have ever seen. Being the dog and animal lover that I am this is naturally disturbing. In fact, I cannot find anything else that disturbs me more and I just can't get stop thinking about these starving dogs. I cry inside for these dogs. When climbing in Mexico in January of this year I could see the dogs on the roofs of every home from my window at the airport in Mexico City. They roam the streets by day and at night are put on the roof to deter burglars. I am not bothered by the poverty and squalor- but the dogs! All I can picture is Levi and Sunny(my two yellow labs) propped up on my bed, sofa or where ever they find most comfortable, eating like kings, hiking mountains in the crisp Colorado air, all the comforts any human could want -much less dog. It is true- the more people I meet, the more I like my dogs.:):) On my return from Tiahuanaco I noticed they sit on the shoulder of the highway evenly dispersed about every quarter mile praying for someone to discard trash. At one pull-out I gave one a pack of Nekots(cookies) and I am certain that I made a friend for life. I said a prayer for him that he might see his next birthday. The rest of the way home I would throw Fig Newtons out on the shoulder of the road to them. The views of the Cordillera Real from the road leading to Tiahuanaco were spectacular- not a cloud in the sky! The drive certainly made me appreciate the roads back home more as there are no designated lanes, speed limits, and most definitely no emmission regulations here. I love seat belts, turn signals and stop-lights passionately it seems. If you do encounter a red-light here it means either stop, stop and go or simply go- at the drivers discression. The ruins of Tiahuanaco were somewhat less marvelous than the pyramids of Teotihuacan in Mexico but no less historical or fascinating. Between the destruction by the Spanish -who considered the inhabitants Pagan worshippers- and the pillaging by poachers, there is sadly not much left to the area other than some giant monolyths. Between 1100 A.D. and 1200 A.D. the Spanish killed -by sacrifice- all of the indigenous inhabitants and consequently destroyed their culture. This is their version of Columbus Day. After the tour I had my first Llama steak- tasty! They have no Western fast-food restaurants in Bolivia. Vicente- my guide- said that it was too expensive and that Mcdonalds had tried to establish itself in Bolivia but failed because only the wealthy people could afford it. He seemed somewhat surprized when I informed him that it was the cheapest food available in the U.S. and registered officially as crap. Now- Mcllamas!- there is a business idea in the wings! The most amazing thing that I learned today -conclusively -was something that I already knew, and people who subscribe to Western propaganda would fear to believe is the truth about vitamin B-17. Many leading scientists believe that cancer is as much a vitamin defficiency as anything else. In fact vitamin B-17 is banned in the U.S... A vitamin banned? The active compound in B-17 is Laetrile, or Amygdalin, and is the naturally occuring combatant to cancer that is completely lacking from YOUR diet. It is most commonly found in the seeds of fruit -specifically apricot seeds. The last few days I have noticed the un-educated, poor, indigenous people- who cannot even read or write- selling seeds and the juice they produce from these seeds on the streets. I started to wonder after having researched Amygdalin myself and how the FDA- influenced by by pharmaceutical companies who fund their own research and deny the benefits of vitamin B-17 - if this could in fact be apricot seeds and juice they are selling. Today my guide Vicente who had to answer a barrage of my questions about every subject I could think of, confirmed that indeed it is apricot seeds and apricot juice for sale on the street. They can't read or write and have never seen a television but they certainly are aware of and understand the benefits of vitamin B-17. You do your own research...Is there a cure for cancer or more importantly a preventative measure? Chemotherapy is BIG business. Ever notice how certain very wealthy people seem to miraculously recover from cancer or at least live for extended periods of time after terminal prognosis, often having received "radical" therapy outside of the US? Enough said. Lesson for the day- Don't believe everything you read or see on the six-o-clock news...Your news and the information you rely on in the U.S. is every bit as manipulated and censored as any other country in the world!
Today. August 26. Martes. Ayuda. Today my driver Hidalgo picked me up and took me to the southern part of La Paz. He is friendly but my Spanish is worse than his English and this has been a problem. He is so, so, so, friendly and -very persistant. Every night a different member of his family calls me and we can never seem to understand each other. I just pick things for Hidalgo to do because he is so nice. Today at the designated time Hidalgo showed up on foot. Let me reiterate -he is my driver. After our normal blind exchange we determined that we may need the vehicle after all, so he hoofed it several miles straight uphill- La Paz is extremely hilly- and about 90 minutes later he showed back up with the van. If it´s just around the block a couple times it's enough for Hidalgo. He is genuinely friendly and sincere I must underscore. We visited an area called Valley of The Moon which is this very unusual geological area characterized by mud formed tufas. If you have ever been to Mono Lake outside of Yosemite National Park in California you might even know what a tufa is. These however are giant mud stalagmites. Bolivians consider it so odd that they liken it to being on the surface of the moon. Interesting place! Great destination for Hidalgo- and me as well it seems. After that we went to the La Paz Zoo. It was really cool seeing the Jaguars and the Condors. I think for the most part though, the zoo is a place where local couples go to roll around near the animal cages and make-out. I enjoyed a late lunch at this restaurant called the Colonial Pot. It is the most ornate restaurant featuring priceless antique Bolivian wood carved furniture with satanic and phallic motifs- I have ever seen, is located up the same alley as the Coca Museum and across the avenue from the Witch's Market- no joke. Is that descriptive enough? In the Witch's Market they sell llama fetus's and I suspect other ingredients for any type of ceremonial sacrifice or concoction you may want to brew up. Or perhaps just in case you want to conjure up an old fashioned curse or cast a spell- you know. I might even be afraid had I not already been mistaken for a professional wrestler from the U.S... I guess they get W.W.F down here. On the walk home it seems as though half of the city was protesting something this afternoon. Primarily it was the indigenous people however. They were marching up the middle of Main street through town chanting something and waving flags. I think it was something about someone raising the rent again -seriously. The indigenous women who wear the traditional clothes and wear the shawls and bowler hats are called Cholitas. Cholita wrestling as it turns out is the latest rage. Cholitas dress in the iconic fashion that one would most associate with Andean culture. It is very unique and I am sure that most people have seen this image at sometime. You must be careful of being too friendly with any Cholita who wears their hat tilted to the side however for this is a sign of availability and the last thing you want to do is give off the wrong vibes this far from home. I attribute my success at not having gotten sick yet to my strict bread, pizza, and french-fry diet. Ever had french fries cooked in lard? They really do taste different -quite edible though. I eat in the hotel so often I am well known and they address me as Meester Collenz. I am really starting to wish more than ever that I could get into the mountains and out of the city -three more days!! You know I really never was much of the bright-lights big-city type. A barn somewhere in the middle of Kansas sounds great in fact. My personal lesson for the day- If I ever go looking for my heart's desire again I won't look any further than my own backyard because if it's not there I know I never lost it to begin with. Just kidding! sort of..
Agosto, 27, Miercoles. Today was rather uneventful. I decided to go walkabout. Started out walking south. I noticed if I walk south out of my hotel I am in a very nice area as opposed to heading north. The first stop was an area called Plaza Avaroa. The city is full of these squares. It was a great place to watch people. I have started to figure out certain things after having observed them for several days. The sun is very intense here, especially at this elevation. As a result many people have cataracts and are either blind or nearly blind. Using kerosine for cooking and heating purposes also leads to blindness. I could not figure out for a while what the people in zebra outfits were doing all over the streets but now I realize that they are traffic attendants and specialize in helping visually impaired people cross the bustling streets. The streets are also full of vans who drive around with people hanging out spouting off about their destination. Because people are illiterate and many cannot see, this is the only way they know how to get home or where they are headed. Again there are barely any noticeable traffic rules. I came within one inch of being hit by a taxi today. He turned right in front of me and I literally put my hand down on the middle of his hood before he stopped. Had I been in The U.S. I would have ripped this guy out of his cab and kicked him so hard he would have been wearing his ass as a hat, but being in a foreign country I figured I might just let it go. Mountain climbing may be dangerous but just walking around this city seems even more dangerous. Pedestrians have absolutely no rights. The walk continued south and I noticed on the map something called Central Park that looked considerably large. At the very tip of Central Park was an amusement park for children on a huge promontory. It was actually quite nice for the children and I know my son would have enjoyed it thoroughly. After leaving the panhandle part of the park and heading back north it became increasingly evident how seedy this area was. This place made Central Park in New York seem like Disney Land. I was walking about twenty or thirty yards up some stairs in front of Jen when this mangy looking guy came out of nowhere and starting tailing her. I had stopped to wait by this point and then he came to the realization she was being accompanied by Rick Flair(pro-wrestler). A light must have gone off in his head and he concluded this was not going to go down like he had envisioned. After a little while longer we came back into a more populated area. The walk continued further north than I had previously been through markets that appeared to be more for inhabitants of the city rather than for tourists. There really aren't many stores to speak of so everything is purchased on the streets. Many of the Cholitas are so destitute that they lay down on the sidewalks often holding out upside-down hats begging. Most are very old, missing teeth and cradling young children as well. They are so, so desperate. It makes me want to go back to Boulder and slap some of those panhandlers on Pearl Street around. They stay clear of me when they see me coming anyway as I have a reputation there also. One of those- the bullshit stops here- reputations. After returning to the hotel briefly, I went back to eat in the nicer area further south that I only discovered today. I had some suits there looking down there nose at me. I guess if I changed my clothes more than once a week it might be different. Probably not though as I am well versed in snobby ass-holes having grown up in south Charlotte and know this is their normal modus operandi, to make themselves feel more important than they are. I just laugh inside knowing they couldn't even afford to visit Myrtle Beach much less Colorado. There were a couple of girls sitting next to us at the restaurant whispering as we peeled the labels off our beer bottles. Again I had to laugh knowing I pass out before I can get drunk enough to be interested in girls that abominable. My day concluded with another visit to Plaza Avaroa where I sat on a park bench and fed the pigeons and the perros(puppies) crackers. I gave my left-overs from dinner to a shoe-shine boy who accepted them graciously. Lesson for the day- Don't judge a book by it's cover. When you judge you are only disclosing your own inadequacies. You never know who you are judging or what they have endured in their life. As my dear friend and brother Edgar Cato would say "one finger at you, three at me" PS: Thank you for calling me tonight mom, I love you.
Today is Thursday August 28. I am eagerly awaiting Jaime to arrive now so we can go over the last of the logistics and head into the Condoriri region to attempt an ascent of Pequeno Alpamayo 17,618ft- the first real objective. I met with Juan Carlos Escobar- the first Bolivian to summit Everest- who was very polite and informative! I decided today would be a rest day so the first part of the day was very slow paced. Early in the afternoon we decided to do an equipment check and it came to my attention that I had mistaken Jen's overboots for super-gaiters. These are the insulated leggings that keep snow out of your boots and further protect your feet from the cold -quite essential. We struck out combing the local outfitters for some to buy or rent. I am pretty tired of the streets and vendors by now but today turned out to be unexpectedly fun and educational. Along the way I noticed people selling hats and things with American logos like NY and LA for the respective sports teams. I realized that they are trying to dress like me and that I am trying to dress like them. Strange dichotomy. I wandered back into the same area I have been nearly everyday but this time went further into the Witch´s Market and found the most bizzarre things. I found several little witch shops with lots and lots of llama fetus's hanging up all over the place. This is August and every family in Bolivia that subscribe to the ancient rituals must burn a fetus and take it's ashes and sprinkle them upon the ground. This is there way of giving back to mother earth in thanks for all that she has yielded over the past year. Also they have this wood burning in their shops that is from the Palo Santo species of tropical tree hailing from the Amazon Jungle. It smells pungent but appealing like White Sage and has the same intention of clearing the air of bad spirits. I need a truck full. Jaguar pelts adorn the walls. There are huge burlap sacks of all sorts of herbs and different ingredients for the potions that any would-be witch doctor would like to dabble with. One jar on the wall was full of many different items and unidentifiable things in a strange fluid. I asked what it was and the woman replied "talisman, will protect your family", "here you take pachamama(a small figurine), protect your family" I eased on out of there. Thought about running but walked instead. "Muchas gracias pero no gracias senorita, buenos noches"("Thanks but no thanks ma'am, good evening"). The pictures I have are going to blow your minds. I then headed up the alley and around the corner to a woman´s store called Mama Coca. It was none other than Mama Coca behind the counter and her specialty was Mascaras Andinas- Ancient Andean ceremonial masks. These are the most unusual, crazy things I have seen yet. Many of them were hand made by a famous mask maker named Antonio Viscarra in the 1920´s. I am trying to figure out how to get one home safely, for these things are priceless. Nothing could represent their culture more completely. By this time the sun had begun to fall on this Andean concrete jungle called La Paz. When the sun sets I like to be in the confines of my hotel room. First I made one more quick stop in a store run by a native named Graciella. She spoke very good English and had exquisite goods. I bought a Peruvian hat from her made by the Chulu natives. The hand woven goods are all indicative of the indigenous people from which they come. The rugs I have bought -and would like to leave with more of- are Haquayo woven and actually are not rugs at all but instead they are the ancient Mantas that the Cholitas carry there babies in on their backs. Six or seven years ago the Haquayo Cholitas from the Potosi department(region) came down from the mountains with tens of thousands of them and they were bought up for practically nothing and consequently cut up and woven into clothes and other goods. They are amazingly beautiful and intricate. Depending on how intricate, one could take several months just to finish. It really does take more than a couple days to explore a place like this. As I was walking up the side of the incredibly crowded streets- BAM!- I got hit by the rear view mirror of a van. It didn't hurt but it got my attention for sure. I made it back to the hotel just before complete dark in time to reflect on the afternoon. Todays lesson- "life is what happens while you´re busy making other plans"...John Lennon
Day 9, La Paz, August 29. Tommorrow it's on. We leave at 8:30 am for Lake Titicaca and from there into los montanas. Mules will be carrying my supplies. All I have to do is stay healthy. I am kicking the Celebrex after tonight and going to Motrin 800's on Sunday. My back is a bit tweaked and has taken over as my main health concern...I have to practice what I preach now. No expectations, relax, enjoy the scenery, and if my health permits- climb like hell, hard and unrelenting. It's not fear that grips me but a heightened sense of things. I went for an early walk into the market and found the best mantas at the best prices on a side street off the beaten path- exquisite! These two young and beautiful Cholitas who owned the shop -not exactly a shop in the sense you might think- were so genuinely friendly. When they smile you could see the gold caps on their teeth, flush rosey cheeks, and dark suggestive eyes. They had two young daughters who were beautiful as well and dressed in cute little Bolivian clothes. We gave them two lollipops each and they opened both and ate them at the same time. They kept coming up to me hitting me and saying "hola" "hola" -taking turns. It was the most precious thing I have ever seen. The pictures will tell a thousand words and should be in National Gegraphic magazine. After a quick trip through the market we returned to the hotel. We met Janet today- our one and only climbing partner from Lake Tahoe. She is older and clearly an extraordinary human being. She went to school in Boulder in the 60's, has lived in Chamonix France and has a most impressive climbing repertoire. Those climbs include the Matterhorn in Switzerland, Alpamayo in Peru, Citlaltepetl in Mexico, Mont Blanc in France, and many, many more. It is an honor to have her along. After meeting with Juan Carlos Escobar again and doing our final equipment check, we invited Janet to accompany us down to the market where we exchanged Jen's super-gaiters for the right ones and then made a return trip to Mama Coca's mask shop. I did it! I bought one of the only one of Antonio Viscarra's masks still available to the public. I have the book and it has it's provenance. Made of Madeira wood, natural pigmented dyes, painted lightbulbs as the eyes, clay, paper, mirrors, beads, it is 80 years old and the score of a life-time! I can only compare it to being at Brimfield Antiques Show in Massachusetts with Jimmy and the way we felt when we found a birch-bark canoe in some Maine neophyte's booth -knowing what it would bring back in Aspen. It was 1400 Bolivianos($200 dollars), three months salary in La Paz and is the coolest thing I have ever seen! The image is El Diablo- the devil! It is the head-dress of a costume from the ancient ceremony held in all parts of Bolivia every year in February -particuliarly in Oruro- where good defeats evil and the wearer is able to let his primordial behavior dominate while hidden behind it's facade. So incredibly fragile a piece broke off on the way home and I am trying to figure out how to get it home safely. I will have to ship it through UPS or the like. Should El Diablo get destroyed part of Bolivian history goes with it. The rest of Viscarra's collection is in the La Paz museum. Janet was blown away by the place and especially the entire transaction, Momma Coca- who is legendary, and our savvy street sense of La Paz. We got photos of Momma wrapping it carefully and Pappa Coca helping too. Several people gathered on the street to see it on it's way. She blessed El Diablo as we left by packing it away with coca leaves. When I got back to the hotel the entire staff gathered around in awe. I have formed the most unique and special relationship with the staff at the hotel over the last week and a half. They verbalized to me in unison how much they appreciate my sincereity and respect. Wow! I am blown away! After final packing and this entry I am retiring to bed for rest in anticiption of the events to come. It will be six days before my next entry. I am sure it will be lengthy! Starting in the next couple of days the satelite dispatch will have updates from Codoriri. I got to hear Sterling and my son's voice tonight. Some day I will have many stories to share with Owen. His legacy will be a great one indeed! Lesson for the day- without love in the dream it will never come true.
¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡ THE ANDES MOUNTAINS- BACKBONE OF SOUTH AMERICA !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Jeremiah Johnson made his way into the mountains, bettin' on forgettin' all the troubles that he knew....
Saturday August 30th. After breakfast at the hotel with Jaime and Janet we departed for a long bus ride to Lake Titicaca. Upon arriving at the lake we took a boat ride on a primitive vessel to an island called Suriqui. Sur -refers to a bird that once inhabited the island- but now is extinct- and riqui -means sleeping - sleeping bird. On the island the natives were busy building boats by hand made from Laurel wood and there was a distinct smell of the Eucalyptus trees that abound. Women and children came down from the hills hurriedly to try and peddle some of their crafts made from the Totora reeds that line the shores of the legendary lake. We all felt obliged to buy something in hopes of feeding a hungry mouth. Once upon a time the late, great Jacques Cousteau searched the depths of Titicaca for a lost city but only discovered the largest frogs on earth. After a brief visit we struck out for the mainland. Riding on the hull of the boat the views of the mountains were splendid! Back on shore we were greeted by a lunch of fresh trout caught in the lake. The largest trout in the world are also found in Titicaca. We spent lots of time photographing and marveling at the intricate boats made from the Totora reeds. We were greeted by the son of the man who built the Kon Tiki- a famous boat that made an even more famous voyage from Peru to the Polynesian islands in 1947 captained by Norwegian Thor Heyerdahl. It took 101 days and 4,300 miles. A long ride up the Codoriri Valley brought us to the trail head. Along the way, wide yellow fields were full of llamas and alpacas setting the tone for the days to come. The wind was chilly and the first night camping at 14,400 feet was an abrupt change of pace from La Paz.
.....he had an adventurous spirit, proper wit, and all the truck that went with being a mountain man....
Sunday, August 31. The warmth of the late morning was very welcome after the first of many nights of cold blustery conditions. We sat in the mess tent -as we would every morning and evening the rest of the journey- and discussed people, places and of course mountains and our numerous mountain exploits. All the while enjoying the carefully prepared meals by our porters and naturally, sipping on numerous cups of Coca tea. We have a cook named Dimitri, a kitchen boy named Martin, and and assistant guide named Juan- all Aymaran. Our main guide Jaime is extremely funny and personable. We developed an outstanding relationship over the week that has been a great pleasure. The dynamic of the group could not be better. Janet as I said before- at 61- is an inspiration to me and to everyone she has ever come into contact with I am certain. Her climbs also include Artesonraju in Peru, Elbrus in the Caucasus and many high treks in the Himalaya. The last to claim her place as an expert climber she is truely an extraordinary human being. Jaime is going to climb the savage mountain next summer- K2. His experience is replete. The burros and porters arrived mid-day and we set out for base camp at 15,100 feet. After arriving, Jen and I hiked 1,200 feet above camp to the should of Mirador Peak at around 16,200 feet. While high above camp, two Andean falcons soared on the thermals above. Black and white in color these majestic animals would seem to follow us the rest of the way -both on the mountain tops and down in the valleys. The Aymarans call them "Suerte Maria"- Good Luck Mary- and indeed they proved to be. This expedition would prove to be one of the most unexpected highlights of my life over the next six days but not immediately! On descent from the Mirador my head started to pound and I began to vomit uncontrollably. El Diablo had me in his grip and the altitude began to wreak havoc on my mind. I went straight to bed but not before beginning a course of Acetazolamide(Diamox); a diuretic that increases breathing and lowers blood pressure. It was a long night, a very long night! I had nightmares and cold sweats while repeatedly pondering -why? At one point in the early morning hours I found myself repeating- "I am going to beat El Diablo, I am going to beat El Diablo...."
......people come up to the mountains hoping to find something they couldn't get down below..You can't cheat the mountain pilgrim, the mountains got it's own ways...
Monday, September 1st, Labor Day. I awoke at 7:30 and felt like a new man! Strong, clean, alive! We now have 10 German trekkers camping in the morraine below us. There are these rodents everywhere that live in the morraine called Vizcahas. They are a cross between rabbits and squirrels. They have long tails and hop around camp- especially in the middle of the night. After a hearty breakfast at 10:20 we headed out of camp and up to the toe of the glacier. The intention was to do some skills review on the glacier and make an attempt at Pyramide Blanca 17,159 feet the following day. We were very ill-equipped and in fact I wasn't even wearing a shirt. I was feeling very good -almost out-of-body good, and the weather was so perfect I suggested "Let's do this now! Let's go for the summit right now, not tommorrow, now!" After a little contemplation and no complaints we struck out for the summit taking a more direct route than normal and in fact put up a new route on Pyramide Blanca!!! It may have been climbed before but was undocumented! It included climbing up a steep section though black ice and penitentes. The glacier in this area was severely crevassed. For 4 hours and 53 minutes we plugged away leaping gaping crevasses climbing higher an higher before summiting at 3:13 PM. It was 6:30 PM before we were back in camp. This was a most unexpected feat considering the night I had before, the spontaneity of the decision to climb, the late morning start and my shirtless attire! Upon arrival at camp a group of climbers from England, Germany and Tasmania had surrrounded our tents with their own. Jen was a real trooper having completed the climb with her own mild case of Acute Mountain Sickness. What a Labor Day to remember!!
...you've come far Jeremiah..."feels like far"... Was it worth the trouble?..."what trouble?...
Tuesday, September 2nd. It is nearly impossible to explain the beauty here of the breath-taking peaks, llamas roaming the hillsides and the falcons soaring above. Drinking Coca tea is an integral part of the experience- it is what the natives have used for centuries to combat altitude illness. It does not get you jazzed up but rather helps brain function while thinning the blood. Sometimes I put my Coca tea bags in my Coca- Cola. I have had real Coca-Cola, something most people cannot claim. Today is a rest day for me -a day to reflect and be grateful that I was strong enough and healthy enough to do what I came here to do- CLIMB THE MOUNTAINS AND GET THEIR GOOD TIDINGS!!! The result is we are now one day ahead of our itinerary. My dreams I have every night at altitude are bizarre to say the least. I dream of people I have known and places I have been - all mixed together and out of context. In the dreams the people all display their true character. I took a walk down by the lake that sits at the bottom of the mountain cirque and soaked my feet this afternoon. I have started to develop a hack from breathing the smog in La Paz and also working hard in the dry, cold air at altitude. Two new climbers entered base camp this evening. One named Stan Lanzano and the other John Douglasss- with three s's. Stan is from Boulder and knows people I know and John is from Jackson Hole. Small world!! Great guys and fantastic climbers.
....maybe you ought to come down out of the mountains Jeremiah, the city's where the peoples is..."I've been to the city"...
Wednesday, September 3rd, rebirth. At 3:15AM we rose in the middle of a frigid night. By 4:20AM we were headed up the morraine towards the glacier. Our goal -to ascend Pequeno Alpamayo 17,618 feet. In order to accomplish this feat we had to climb up, over and down Tarija Peak(16,601 feet). We clipped along in the dark, cold, howling night until we reached the glacier's tongue. After gearing up we set off climbing through the jagged penitente towers before reaching the consistent snow on the glacier fields above. When the sun rose we were high above the valley floor and closing in on the summit of Tarija. After surmounting Tarija we had to down climb a huge rock tower wearing crampons -ice fangs- but first we were blessed with the most imposing and breathtaking view of the mighty Pequeno Alpamayo! The 1000 foot knife-edged Southwest-Ridge that guards Alpamayo's summit is a sight to behold! We traversed the ridge connecting the two peaks and the began our relentless pilgrimage to the small sacred place- Once on top the world opened up and the panoramic views were undescribable. Six hours it took to reach this place- and a life time! Illimani and Potosi loomed in the jet stream to the south-east. Ancohuma, Illampu, and the Condor's Head tore apart the sky to the north-west. These are the sights that only a mountaineer will ever know and experience and are indeed the divine fruits of his efforts. The existential summits of the physical world are only metaphors for the spiritual summits of his dreams. This was the most beautiful line I have ever climbed on any mountain anywhere. Regardless of the higher mountains we will attempt later in the expedition none can compare to this one -aesthetically. After nearly an hour on the summit we descended only to pass John and Stan from the States headed up. We had to climb back over the rock tower of Tarija Peak and from the top the Suerte Marias(Andean falcons) played on the currents above -Good Luck Indeed!! We could also see the rising smoke from the Jungas- the Amazon Jungle. Every September the jungle inhabitants burn the vegetation prompting the arrival of spring and the coming rains. Life renews itself! Ten hours later upon arrival at camp I was exhausted and collapsed. Now the dry hack has gotten deeper into my chest and to combat it I am taking Z-pac antbiotic in addition to the Acetazolamide diuretic, and Motrin 800 anti-inflammatory. I smiled laying in my tent thinking of the summit and how I had again carried Willie's(my black lab) ashes to the top -as always. I have carried his ashes in 16 marathons and on nearly every rock and mountain climb since he passed on June 4th 2004. I also collected my rock from the summit for Owen's collection. Every mountain I climb I collect a rock and put it in a labeled bag with the directions- "son, when you are old enough, return this rock to it's proper place".
...I ain't never been there but I hear the Andes is foothills and the Alps is for children to climb, thats right- the Rocky Mountains are the marrow of the world!...
Thursday, September 4th. This is yet another rest day. Another day to reflect on the climbs and the beautiful Condoriri region. I slept hard all night only waking to pee in my pee bottle, gulp some water, and slip back into my altitude dreams. Sleep now, rest in the arms of the dragon. Mid-day I woke long enough to see the mountain gods have turned their favor to fury. Thick cloud banks poured over the mountain tops filling the valley, enveloping the massif. What was once a hospitable place where I climbed to over 17,000 feet without a shirt now turned to a hostile unforgiving environment. Had I not encouraged us to advance the itinerary we would have never completed Alpamayo. Stan and John were climbing a direct route on the Pyramide Blanca and were fortunate to descend ahead of the raging storm.
....the way that you wander is the way that you choose, the day that you tarry is the day that you lose....
Friday, September 5th. Bright flash- BOOM. Lightning struck the ground nearby. Awake. Daylight. The tent nearly collapsed during the night from the weight of the snow. It snowed in nearly blizzard like conditions all night long. Now it is time to pack up and head down. Down to the trailhead. Down. Down to La Paz. Down, only long enough to shower and sleep in a bed before heading back up to Huayna Potosi tommorrow. The burros were there waiting, waiting agreeably to carry our gear down the valley. Leaving with the fresh coating of snow was a beautiful contrast to the dry, warm, sunny days we experienced during the week. I looked back once more before the view of Condoriri was gone and it hit me. I see god in the jagged mountain vistas. I see god in the wrinkles of the faces of the Aymara women tending the burros. I feel god in the warm sunshine that greets my face and the bone-chilling winds that force me to retreat to my sleeping bag. I feel god in the dry, thin air that hurts my lungs but fills them with much needed oxygen. Everywhere I look I see god, feel god, experience god, know god. God is everywhere. God is everything. You were born with god in your heart. You live your entire life with god in your heart. When you lay down and draw your last breath it is gods breath that leaves your lungs. Know this. It is not the word of man. It is not words in a book. It is the Suerte Maria flying high above, free, alive..
.....some say- he's up there still...
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......There is a region of heart's desire,
......free of the hand that wills;
......land of the shadow and haunting spire,
......land of the silvery glacier fire,
......land of the starry choir,
......magical land of hills,
......land of the crying of winds and streams,
......thronged with the fancies and fears of dreams.
........Geoffrey Winthrop Young............
September 8th, Monday. At last I am back in La Paz at the El Rey Palace Hotel, sleeping for three nights in a bed and preparing for the final major obstacle that lay ahead. I am resting and reflecting now that things are moving so fast. My head is reeling from all the brain cells that are being destroyed at altitude. Here is the recap of the last couple of days. After breakfast Saturday (September 6th) we headed out to the Zongo Pass. After arriving at the lower refugio at around 15,500 feet we arranged equipment and I allocated my gear to a young boy porter who carried my pack to the rock camp. The rock camp -or upper refugio- is at 17,060 ft. At around 3:30 PM, I set out on my own scrambling to the place that I would attempt to rest for the night. At this height rest does not come easy. That is why a four or five day push to ascend Mt Everest from base camp requires acclimating for two months prior. It was a cold but quite beautiful night at the upper refugio. High above the clouds the scenery is nothing short of ethereal. Looming overhead, the giant massif of Huayna Potosi(6,088 meters/19,975 feet) is ominous. Indeed an imposing giant he is and aesthetically supreme. I say "he" because Aymaran folklore says that Potosi is the first and most cherished son of the King and Queen, Illampu and Illimani respectively. Huayna Potosi means "Thunderous Youth". Potosi's glacier meltwater provides the source of the largest hydro-electric plant in Bolivia responsible for all of the power generated for the city of La Paz (2,000,000 inhabitants) There were other people at the refugio from Germany, England, and Bolivia. At around 3:15AM Sunday (September 7th) in the morning -having only slept four or five hours in two days- we rose to begin getting dressed and fed for the task at hand. By 4:20AM or so we had departed from the refugio. At around 4:30AM, "crunch", my first step onto Potosi's flanks. We climbed for several hours in the dark before being graced by the splendid sun-rise over Queen Illimani to the east. After having to negotiate several crevasses we reached the first major challenge. We had to ascend the bergschrund. This is where the glacier in a down-ward movement tears away from the mountain and leaves a tremendous void. Upon topping out above the "schrund" we continued on until we could see the summit ridge looming above -still a thousand daunting vertical feet. The route continued circling the peak and winding through penitente fields and over crevasses -which must be leapt over- until we encountered some rock towers. Having passed through the mixed scrambling of the rocks and ice we could finally see the actual summit. The only thing blocking us now was another few hundred feet of a knife-edged, corniced ridge. The crux of the climb! It began to be evident we would reach our lofty goal! Ascending the ridge was exhilarating indeed as there was a three thousand foot drop on one side and a thousand foot drop on the other. A few more moves... Finally after 6 hours and ten minutes from departing from the rock camp we had summited the young prince. HUAYNA POTOSI was ours!!! Now for the treacherous descent- which all mountaineers know is the most dangerous part of any climb. At this point you are fatigued and oxygen deprivation is making you sluggish and miserable -even thoughtless. Another half hour passed and we were back down the precipice to the more gentle terrain below. Downward we marched. By this time my head was pounding. Back down the "schrund" -even more treacherous on descent! Then into an alley notorious for massive avalanches triggered by huge blocks of ice called seracs that hang awkwardly above. At this point we had to make double-time to round a corner and get out of harms way. Often looking back along the way the summit block was covered in thickening clouds and it became increasingly apparent we had gotten up and down in the nick of time! After 8 plus hours we reached the refugio. My head pounding harder than ever, I quickly gathered my things and struck out for the lower camp at 15,500 feet. The air was thicker here and my head-ache started to subside. It was approximately 23 hours since I had departed and achieved this great goal! I had conquered Huayna Potosi in one desperate, calculated push!!! It was a short while before the others arrived and the porters with my gear. At my insistance we returned to La Paz. The original plan was to stay an extra night at the lower refugio. I was able to rest- finally! On the way back I could see the Queen high above the altiplano. Now it has come down to one more obstacle -the mighty Illimani! I am so grateful now that I have achieved every goal I have attempted thus far! I have remained healthy and strong and climbed without hesitation or hindrance! My expectations are none but to live and return home in one week to my family and friends...Now but one mountain remains...One more push for the ages....
"They slipped the surly bonds of earth, to touch the face of God"
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...If we are only strong then we are rigid.
...If we are only flexible then we are unstable.
...If we are both strong and flexible, then we achieve balance.
...Sydney Merideth...
September 9th, Tuesday. Yesterday was spent doing alot of running around between the hotel and the DHL warehouse trying to oversee the building of the crate and the packing of the Antonio Viscarra mask I bought. It will cost more to ship than it cost to buy but it is so exquisite and so, so fragile. Tommorrow we head out to Nevado Illimani(6,438 meters/21,210 feet). All the preparations and acclimatization should be in place now. There is, however, a fine line between peparation and exhaustion and I am somewhere in between. Janet has ended her climbing now and will be flying back to California soon. Her propensity to have aneurisms in her eyes that could cause blindness has forced her to stop now. She will be missed and I feel certain that we will always be friends. There are bonds made in the mountains that are hard to explain and having known her these last few weeks has been a pleasure. I cannot over-emphasize the great dynamic we have been blessed with on this expedition. Those of us remaining and moving on will be me, Jen, Jaime(climbing guru), Juan(sirdar), Dimitri(cook), Martin(kitchen boy), Alex(camp attendent), and several cholita porters to carry our gear. This will be a long, cold, windy outing. My only goal is to summons up my energy reserves and to attempt this climb gracefully. Success in the mountains is subjective. Keeping a positive outlook while dealing with the nagging effects of altitude and exposure is the real goal. I am really sick of taking the Acetazolamide because of the side effects. It makes my fingers, toes and lips constantly tingle and is quite annoying. It seems to have helped though. My next entry will be on Saturday or Sunday. Hopefully I will be resting by then and packing for home. In less than six days I will be in my own bed. I want to thank my family and friends for keeping up with my progress here in Bolivia and for all your thoughtful words, thoughts, and prayers! You, after all, make life worth living.
...The mountains are calling and I must go...
....John Muir...
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......Pilgram on earth, home and heaven are within thee,
......Heir of the ages and child of the day.
......Cared for, watched over, beloved and protected,
......Walk thou with courage each step of the way.
September 10th. Wednesday. after breakfast we set out on a three and a half hour trip in Juan's 4X4 through a very narrow, winding mountain canyon named Canyon de las Animas -canyon of the souls. The passage was incredibly treacherous and there were several-thousand foot drops into deep ravines off the side of the one lane dirt path. This makes all mountain roads in the U.S. look incredibly tame. When the rains come the road is often washed completely away. We reached the end of the line in a small village called Pinaya at the foot of Illimani. After stretching a bit, we set out for base camp which we reached after four miles and 1,800 vertical feet. It was a nice hike with mostly sheep, horses and other livestock in the valleys rather than llamas and alpaca. Another party of french climbers arrived shortly after us. After settling in with dinner and fantastic views of the mountain looming above we went to sleep -elevation 14,600 ft.
Thursday. September 11. Today we packed up and with the help of our Aymara -women- porters we began the 3,500 foot ascent up loose rock and scree to high camp. It was an arduous ascent and we made it in good time although cautiously. It is truely amazing how agile and strong these porters are -indeed the real heroes. It is the long standing tradition that women are employed as the porters on this mountain. They wear sandals to hike in as well. We arrived at high camp at around 18,000 ft ahead of the French climbers and got our tents and space established. It would turn out to be a cold and blustery night up high as indeed the monsoons of South America have arrived. El Viento Blanco -the "white wind" proceeded to rock high camp all night accompanied by snow and thunder. It was harrowing and under any other circumstances surely the last place on earth I would have chosen to be. A warm welcome to the slopes of Illimani! We received news at high camp that Bolivia was on the verge of a civil war, that the American ambassador to Bolivia had been asked to leave and that the whole predicament was being blamed on the U.S.- bad news. I called Sterling and my mom on the satellite phone expressing my concerns. Over the next several hours when I was supposed to be sleeping or attempting to sleep I lay awake in my tent contemplating my past, future and my current situation. I thought about things like what it would be like to be trapped in Bolivia for years and miss my son growing up, the passing of my oldest dog, and all sorts of other random scenarios. Anything I could postulate I considered. It was a long exhausting night.
Friday, September 12. We awoke at 2:15AM to begin the cold preparations for the ascent of Illimani. I had a hard time getting ready. It is difficult to efficiently do anything when your hands will not co-operate in the freezing temperatures. There were a couple of hard rolls and some cold cereal thrown out on a blanket. This was supposed to be breakfast. Unfortunately after I was prepared to ascend, even this pathetic gesture of a breakfast had been removed and I felt hurried to begin climbing. In retrospect I had become too reliant on the food that was prepared for me every meal and should have relied on my own methods more. Particuliarly -instant oatmeal for energy. After weeks of hard climbing and this morning in particuliar I needed hot food -or any food! We began to climb steeply from high camp. I was feeling especially tired on this day and consequently very, very cold. After three hours in the temperatures that were at -10 degrees and wind chills at -20 to -30 degrees I had decided that the thin line for me between continuing on and conceding was reached. I could have continued on in spite of the cold but was simply too drained to proceed. I feel incredibly fortunate to have climbed and remained as healthy over the last two weeks as I have! I preach that it is about the "journey" and I have to live by that creed as well. It really was a great place to be on the mountain and to have experienced Illimani's powerful domain. We listened to huge serac ice blocks calving off and collapsing into the infinite void during the night. After climbing over 6,800 feet of the 8,300 foot ascent I surrendered my quest. Jen was feeling tired and cold but especially motivated for a number of reasons. We had rehearsed this scenario many times before and after a little encouragement she new she had to summit this mountain for both of us now. And indeed she did, under unbelievably harsh conditions! It was a real pleasure for me to celebrate her summit this day knowing the role I have played in the progression of her climbing experiences over the last six and a half years. I felt like a proud father knowing that the combination of her incredible drive and desire coupled with my guidance had culminated in this great trip and even greater day for her! Her interest was clearly there when we met and I am glad to have introduced her to rock climbing and more recently to mountaineering. During the expedition she continually stated that she is not a mountain climber. I think now she understands what it means to climb mountains more completely. It is not the instant rush or gratification of jumping out of an airplane. The experiences, lessons learned, and hardships you endure in the mountains are more like badges of honor that you wear proudly for the rest of your life. After everyone had returned safely to high camp we packed up and continued our descent to base camp another 3,500 feet below. While at high camp I found a tail feather next to my tent from the Suerte Maria. I know it was a gift to me -a gift of hope, a promise of things to come, dreams not yet fulfilled and a life worth celebrating. I have bonded with the Suerte Maria and it watches over me now...
...In the mountains of truth, you never climb in vain....
...We rested comfortably back at base camp. One last night in the wilds! One last night without having to worry about the complexities of society and the indifferences of men and greedy coporporate entities. It was a beautifully clear night with a brilliant moon-rise over Illimani. So simple, pure, perfect!
Saturday, September 13. Today has become somewhat unexpectedly our last day in Bolivia. The U.S. ambassador has left the country and it seems as though maybe we should follow suit. Thanks to an incredibly caring family back home we have been booked to fly through Lima,Peru and then on back to the States. All flights through Santa Cruz, Bolivia have been cancelled and this includes all American Airlines flights. The lights are dimming. Oddly enough, back in La Paz things seem like any other day. The drive out from Pinaya was again long. This time I noticed wild flocks of green parakeets flying in the valleys and especially the smell of the Eucalyptus trees burning. Then suddenly- a Suerte Maria flew up beside the window of the car and continued to fly alongside our vehicle for a few moments and he spoke to me.. "Farewell my friend. Take with you these experiences of my home; hold them next to your heart and remember them fondly. You passed through here with respect and a true connection with the physical world. You walked with grace every step of the way. You are not tainted by the excessive desires of a materialistic society but instead see and experience life in it's purest form. Carry on and come back whenever you please for you and I are one- free, wild, alive."
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...."There is nothing like returning to a place that remains unchanged to find the ways in which you yourself have altered"
....Nelson Mandela....
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...Sunday september 14...Status update..now in Lima, Peru airport. Very glad to be out of Bolivia. Met many Americans at the airport.. All trying desperately to get out of the country. People were headed south to Chile; multiple layovers; anywhere they could go to get out. Met a missionary and his wife that lived in the Amazon Jungle the past two years...they had to leave all their possessions and land behind. The U.S. embassy has told all Americans to leave immediately... as of tommorrow Monday, September 15th indigenous people intend to block all access to the La Paz Airport.. NO MORE FLIGHTS OUT!!!!!My layover here is 13 hours... All is well! Jen may have been the last American to summit Illimani for anytime in the near future...who knows for how long.. The people at the airport say until a new head of state in Bolivia...which could be a very,very long time! Peace and Love! Shawn
...been in airport twelve hours- the horror!.. been in transit 16 hours...only half way home, 16 more hours! this is a mo-fo!... Anyway still a blessing to be headed home...next message in Miami tommorrow morning!....
..BACK IN NORTH CAROLINA!!!!! After 30 hours in transit the odyssey has come full circle! We escaped through Peru! A great feeling to be back in the States! Bolivia was beyond description-AWESOME!!! I hope the best for the people there- especially the indigenous people. Peace !!!!
