Oltrarno: Beyond the Arno
ITALY | Saturday, 23 May 2015 | Views [130] | Scholarship Entry
Reaching the south banks of the Arno River is a short commute over the Ponte Vecchio, a historic bridge lined with shops and filled with people. With an entire day to fill before my train departed from Florence, I ventured into the rustic neighbourhood of Oltrarno. By this point, the downtown core of the historic city could be crossed off my bucket-list. It had started to resemble an Italian Disney World. A break from the selfie-stick wielding crowds seemed necessary.
Traveling alone is a fascinating dichotomy. One is vulnerable and alone, but therefore open to new experiences and connections we would not otherwise appreciate when traveling in a group. That last day, I discovered the beauty of embracing ambiguity while exploring Oltrarno.
A 15-minute walk from the bridge,where Via dell’Erta Canina meets Viale Galileo, there is a public garden. A transcendent chunk of land that makes it easy to understand why artistic expression flourished in the Tuscan hills during the Renaissance and how it continues to bloom today. The photogenic scene was captivating. Only after lowering my camera did I notice the dog buzzing around my feet.While petting him, the buttery leather collar, studded with gold copper wire and a magnificent assortment of crystals caught my eye.The dog’s owner stood a few meters away, waving me over.
My broken Italian made it obvious I was a foreigner instantly, but I was thankful for the man’s patience. We began to banter and exchange stories.His leather jacket looked worn in, as did his freckled skin. A crisp white hat sat atop his white disheveled hair.
”Per te”, he said, placing a package covered in indigo parchment paper (the size of a ping-ping ball) into my open palm. This caught me off guard, and a quick look at my watch revealed that hours had passed disguised as minutes.
We continued to chat as he led me towards a bus stop. Moments before jumping on board,I asked to take his photograph.This time, it wasn't a place that had captivated me, but this stranger’s golden certainty and kindness. The warm presence he radiated, which put the most cautious solo traveler at ease.
With nervous anticipation, I opened the small gift while the train raced out of Florence to find a gold copper ring.What began as a casual walk had transformed into a treasured lesson in embracing the present and being open to unlikely connections. Florence was a remarkable place but city’s real treasure can be found amongst it’s citizens.
Tags: 2015 Writing Scholarship
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