The sun dances and gleams behind closed eyelids. Opening them I am momentarily blinded. Leafy gums swirl across my vision, encased in a brilliant blue sky. And the sound of thunder…
Shaking off the remnants of a dream I sit up slowly and take in my surroundings. Massive river red gums tower above me. A sparkle of turquoise water flashes through the undergrowth. Birds are screeching and flitting through the greenery. And the sound of thunder grows louder…
I turn around. A band of white, black, rowan and piebald colour suddenly pours into the paddock twenty metres away. Like something out of a movie, a herd of horses thunder past, kicking up dust with their hooves, eyes wide. My jaw drops. I turn to my mum and brother wordlessly mouthing admiration. Wheeling around with fluid grace, the magnificent animals come to a halt, pawing the ground and snorting softly. Cattle dogs yap at their feet and a stockman on his horse appears out of the herd. Everything is bathed in the early morning glow.
I smiled. This was going to be an interesting holiday…
We had driven from Alice Springs in Central Australia across a very flat and very hot Tanami Desert. For two long days shimmering horizons, stunted trees and little dust devils were all that filled our sights. We were physically and mentally exhausted. The claws were out and tempers were flaring. Arriving last night, our destination was cloaked in a thick, sooty darkness. Shadowy shapes of jagged ranges and ghost gums were all that our tired eyes noticed.
Looking around now, the land was teeming with colour and movement. A blanket of green enveloped the glowing red ranges that peeked above us on the horizon. The calls of unseen birds pierced the absolute silence. The land was shimmering with freshness and colour.
Our destination you ask?
El Questro – situated on the southern edge of the Kimberley region in Western Australia. One million acres of pristine wilderness waiting to be discovered. Once serving as a cattle station, current owners Will and Celia Burrell have transformed it into one of the worlds most unique tourist destinations. The name El Questro means absolutely nothing. But as a holiday location, the park attracts thousands of tourists every year.
Originally we were planning to travel to the sandy beaches of Broome. Surfing the Net instead we had come across the website www.elquestro.com.au. There were pictures of rugged ranges surrounded by pockets of lush tropical vegetation. Hidden gorges showing off cascading waterfalls. Cool freshwater swimming holes contrasted by bubbling thermal springs. It instantly sold us.
So waking up that morning to perfect weather and a herd of galloping giants set the scene for one of my best holidays to date.
The ‘dry’ season of Northern Australia is the busiest time of the year, and we woke up on the edge of a very busy main campground. But we were in luck. An individual camping spot had just been vacated. Always the one looking for a more secluded experience we jumped at the chance.
Packing our bags and loading them up on the beaten 4WD that mum called her car we set out. Ten minutes along a sandy track, we turned down our ‘driveway’ and headed towards our new and very own camping spot, Osprey.
Sparkling clear water peeked through dense vegetation and suddenly we were upon it. White sand faded down to a serene river edge. Palm fronds kissed the water as dragonflies skimmed across the surface.
For the next four days we sank into a blissful heaven. We were woken up early to the sounds of multi-coloured parrot’s raucously screeching. Alarmed kangaroos leaped through the trees. The weather was perfect. Clear blue skies, warm sun and just the hint of a fresh breeze to keep us in reality.
At El Questro there were thousands of activities to fill the day. The cheapest and most exhilarating thrill is to explore parts of the region by foot. Tracks are well signposted and easy to follow. They range from short thirty-minute tramps to all day hikes. Senses are stimulated and rewarded with the amazing work of Mother Nature at her finest.
The shortest and most popular walk was to Zebedee Springs. Half an hour through towering gums and Livistona palms and the sounds of bubbling water soon fills the air. Lush vegetation and sheer sandstone cliffs surround a permanent thermal spring. The water temperature averages twenty-eight to thirty-two degrees Celsius all year round. Zebedee soon became out favourite place to relax.
As well as the main Station Homestead and the camping grounds, El Questro offers a unique style of accommodation. Tented cabins equipped with all the modern amenities are in complete harmony with the surrounding landscape. The highlight of this resort is the walk that goes right into Emma Gorge.
Sheer quartz-sandstone cliffs hem in savanna woodland and massive rippled boulders. Kimberley rainforest gradually replaces the vegetation and an hour walk reveals the first glints of turquoise water. Glowing with unnatural brilliance the halfway pool provides a beautiful spot to cool off before the last leg. A short walk later and El Questro’s best kept secret appears through the trees.
Crystal clear droplets descend two hundred metres into an enormous cobalt blue pool. Shafts of sunlights give the area a surreal ambience. Wild figs and mossy lichens cling to the cliff faces. A thermal spring bubbles up from a crack at the base of the cliff. Butterflies flit through the still air. Absolute magic to soak in and relax.
Another popular retreat is Chamberlain Gorge, which can only be accessed by boat. Looking for a bit of a buzz we hired a little tinny and spent half a day puttering down the wide river. Breathtaking ochre cliffs towered either side of us. Blue winged kookaburras, azure kingfishers and crimson finches darted through the shadows. Rock wallabies peeked out of their holes in the cliff face. Sleek barramundi moved gracefully underneath the surface. We moored the boat at the end of the gorge and viewed a magnificent display of ancient Indigenous art.
El Questro have every activity for the discerning traveller. Horse treks, accompanied by a ranger are an excellent way to sneak up on Kimberley wildlife. Frilled neck lizards sun themselves, the jabiru stalks incessant insects and the saltwater crocodile wallows in the shallows of the major rivers. Or you can just listen to the extraordinary tales of this special place.
El Questro is fast becoming a place sought after by sports fishermen. Travelling by helicopter is search of the elusive barramundi offers a scenic flight through country that is rarely seen by human eyes. The five thousand heads of cattle that the park maintains can also be spotted, grazing on the saltpans and in pindan country.
This is not only a place for the adventurous spirit, it is also a place to relax. To sit under a boab tree, soaking up the magic. Listening to the beautiful sounds of nature and breathing the worlds cleanest air. The intoxicating sun can do nothing but soothe and relax…
The delicious smell of spinifex grass warming in the sun permeates my nostrils. Melodious warbling spills down from the treetops. I savoured the quiet moment, wishing it would never end.
The day had finally come to leave. Driving out of El Questro I stared wistfully out the window. Hazy memories of the last four days drifted past my eyes. Turning round I took one last glance. The dusty track snaked back through the valley. Once again the early morning sun bathed the land in a golden glow. I could still hear the distant sounds of hooves, a high pitched whinny and the yaps of a cattle dog...
