Aloha Sunrise

We roll up our sleeping bags and stand in expectation. Sleep had been scarce, but it didn’t matter. Excited whispers cut through the darkness. The grass is dewy, the early morning is brisk. I hand out a warm flask. We turn to face the horizon and calmly wait.

Negotiating the roads of eastern Maui had been challenging. The road to Hàna is narrow and winding. It meanders through thick rainforest on the side of the Halaekalà Volcano. Our car, a sorry looking silver Sedan, had been purchased second hand for $500. The seller, a wily Tongan, assured us the brakes were ‘not too shabby’. We hoped he was right.

The fateful drive is dotted with beautiful overlooks and waterfalls. We stopped several times to bathe, explore and to photograph. One particular pool of water was only accessible via a man-made swing. The frayed rope hung from a branch forty feet above the icy cobalt coloured water below. What better way to escape the mosquitoes and the pressing midday heat.

As the light faded we pushed on toward the summit. It had taken us four hours to cover just fifty miles. As we stepped from the car on arrival, an eerie calmness enveloped me. I couldn’t shake it. Nor did I want to. We chose a smooth plot of springy grass and set up camp. The temperature had plummeted and we donned an extra layer.

Joining us in this vast wilderness were pockets of fellow onlookers. We mingled intermittently throughout the night. I chatted with an astronomy student, a beautiful native islander named Tina. She taught me how Halaekalà’s dry climate, elevation and stillness make it one of the most sought after vantage points in the world. Looking at the sky I wasn’t surprised.

She spoke with palpable enthusiasm. Her passion for galaxies, moons and dust clouds made me think of my own studies. I remembered half written, badly researched papers sitting idle in a Dublin drawer. A glance at my surroundings, Tina included, and they were soon forgotten. The banter faded eventually and the gentle hum of chirping crickets sent us to sleep.

At 6:00am a deep orange hue interrupts the darkness and divides the land and sky. This consistent line is eventually pierced by a speckle of searing yellow which gently emits rays as it creeps over the horizon. I rub my hands together and take a deep breath. This daily occurrence never seemed so unique. Sunrise atop a Hawaiian volcano. Not too shabby at all.