So, you are thinking about visiting/studying/moving to Japan…(Delete where appropriate.)
You open up your browser and do a search on Cultural Etiquette of Japan, ‘Do’s and Don’ts’ etc…
A wealth of online articles and blogs spring up all containing the same information; how not to use chopsticks, how to dine with Japanese hosts using the correct table manners, what shrine rituals should be adhered to and when to take your shoes off.
After reading these articles I bet you feel prepared, right? You understand that there are specific slippers for outside the bathroom and specific slippers for inside the bathroom and never the twain shall meet. You know that to dip your rice in soy sauce would be the cultural equivalent of spitting in a Japanese person’s face, and that toilets are a bit of a gamble in Japan – you may get a flush, a song or a soaking. The more Conscientious of you may have even went so far as to learn “Sumimasen” and “Arigato Gozaimasu” to considerable effect. You’ve got it all covered, right?
Hold your horses…
“Take it from me…” – notes from an Idiot.
As a person who grossly underestimated the complexity of Japan, I found myself adrift in a maelstrom of confusion, isolation, identity insecurity, and ineffective communication skills. Japan is fascinating. If you take the time to understand Japanese Psychology and how it forms society you can start to appreciate it’s masterful illusions rather than finding yourself walking down a corridor of locked doors. It can be exhausting work peeling away the layers of Japanese customs but it comes with it's rewards, let me compare it to unlocking a round in a computer game – We all enjoy that feeling when we Level Up don’t we? You grow to spot it patently in the faces of other expats, in their confident, assured gait as they stroll breezily down the streets of Asakusa, a content (smug) smile adorning their features as you furtively try to scoff your onigiri on the sidewalk, hoping you don't get that disapproving "tsk" from a native for making their streets untidy with your sloppy Western ways.
Interculturalism Activated…?
I work in the Business Development department of a subsidiary events company that is one part of an astronomically successful Japanese Company. I was employed as part of an “International Village” initiative. The C.E.O's ambition is to cultivate 'Global Competence' amongst his employees whilst tackling some societal issues that threaten Japan's sustainability. This is why international guests have been welcomed into the company to develop multi layered projects that seek to achieve this while showcasing the richness of Japan to rest of the world.
It sounds terrific doesn't it? A veritable smorgasboard of enlightening, engaging, cultural sharing. Right?
Except the cultural sharing doesn't quite flow as feely and organically as the idealist in you would expect.
So here I will share with you my first important lesson of Japan that I was really, REALLY late to the table for…The fundamental rule of UCHI SOTO.
UCHI SOTO. 内-外
Translation: Uchi 内- Home, Inside. Soto 外 - Outside.
Family, close friends and even colleagues are considered UCHI. Inside group.
Everyone else: SOTO – Outside.
Sounds pretty harmless doesn't it. After all – don't all humans have this innate philosophy of categorization? A basic survival technique.
This dichotomy is paramount in Japanese Society. The distinction and dividing of people into groups is a fundamental part of Japanese social custom and even directly translates into the Japanese language itself. Japan being a homogenous country generally always equates to Westerners being on the outside. The roots of Japan’s ‘Village Society’ still hold stead-fast even now to a country that is desperately trying to become more progressive and be taken seriously on the World Stage. What is it like to experience it? Well...it's cold to be honest. For example - a random nomekai sees you bonding with your colleague in a karaoke booth, singing your hearts out in each others arms and sharing a Shibuya meltdown together. You see said-colleague on Monday morning, grinning as you approach them in the hallway, you get ready for a cheeky high five and to relive the night's antics over hearty laughter...except, they keep their distance. They bow and address you in the honorfic Keigo - a language reserved for guests - outsiders. Another unsettling example: Your Japanese colleagues hold a meeting to present your ideas to your boss - but you are not invited. "Ok, well can you at least do some really exaggerated eyebrow wiggling at the juicy parts of the presentation so I at least feel fairly represented? Please." When you start to understand that you are not involved in decision making and information will always be withheld from you, life in Japan may become smoother if you chose to accept this. I have it on good authority that no matter how long you live in Japan and assimilate to Japanese culture you will always be an Outsider.
Now I am understanding Japan’s self segregation culture, it could be easy to say “Ah, ok. Sorry to bother you, I’ll just..er..take myself off…I hear Malaysia is really nice this time of year…so long. Nice one. Cheers. Ta-ta.” BUT I have been employed by the progressive minds of few that want to open up Japan to new experiences and tackle some of the issues that threaten Japan’s economy and population. Hence I am here on this little unassuming rural island of Awaji – to develop and help facilitate current projects to increase tourism, population flow (yes, you may laugh here) and local economic consumption in efforts to revitalise this region. (Awaji is the size of Singapore and it’s population is now less than 50,000!)
Awaji is beautiful and no doubt special. It’s unassuming in its beauty and charming in it’s vulnerability. And right now is an exciting time for the Island. A wave of new businesses now inhabit the North of the Island. Uniquely different restaurants now dot the coastline offering exquisite food. A cutting edge, immersive entertainment anime park 'Nijigen No Mori' (Anime Forrest) has just opened to great initial success in Awaji Island Park. This year also sees the return of Awaji Art Circus – an International Performing Arts Festival that utilises the Island’s spaces, making a stage for performers inbound from over 17 countries.
My company drives all of these businesses. The businesses are staffed by employees already within the company. The businesses cater for - you guessed it - my companies employees. As the C.E.O enriches this undeveloped area of the Hyogo Prefecture he hopes it will entice and try to encourage his employees to relocate here… I am yet to investigate the interaction with the native communities here - but I feel a little concerned. Gentrification is something I am extremely wary of and as part of my initiation into the company I stated that I wanted to work with the local residents and for this to be very much about sharing, learning together and gently creating our international community in small steps.
But now I feel the real big question is this: Is the Island of Awaji ready to welcome this initiative and embrace it's try hard international team? If I bow down to the Grand Masters on a quest for Intercultural Intelligence and learn to develop a language that can help me connect cultures and build a sustainable international community – how will it be met by the island's residents? And just how deep does Uchi-Soto permeate my own company?
Philosopher Tatsuru Uchida, when speaking to The Japan Times, said this:
“This is an age of transition. We’re going through the confusion characteristic of bedrock change.”
Aristotle said: “The whole is greater than the sum of its parts.”
I must go to bed.
Here's hoping one day I will be able to pen a post titled “Intercultural Level Up”
がんばります!
