25.2.08
In attempt to beat the crowds at one of the most popular
temples of Angkor, we left at 8am to venture to Ta Prohm. It seems we should’ve
left earlier since there were buses already lined up outside the grounds! No
wonder this temple is the most popular and was used in Tomb Raider. It is definitely
impressive. The temple has been largely left untouched by archaeologists and
the star attraction would be the century-old trees almost structurally holding
the temple walls up. Also commonly known as the Jungle Temple, the original
design was typical of ‘flat’ Khmer architecture however it is probably the most
photogenic and visually stimulating temple in the Angkor group.
Next it was on to Angkor Thom. This magnificent ruined city
was the work of no other than King Jayavarman VII. Nearly 80,000 people help to
maintain and entertain the palace including 615 dancers! The entrance to this
lost city is called Victory Gate. This tower shows Bayon architecture with the
tell-tale sign of the four faces embedded in the top. The road leading up to
the gate is lined with 54 god heads on the left and 54 demon heads on the
right. You can tell which ones are gods by the almond shape of their eyes and
the demons by the round shape.
We walked around the grand stage of the Terrace
of the Elephants. The terrace was used by King Jayavarman VII as a platform to watch
his victorious army returning to the Kingdom and also other entertaining
ceremonies. Around to the right of the stage you stumble on a wall of carvings
and a replica statue of Yama (the God of death) – an area known as Leper King
Terrace. The statue was apparently called the Leper King because of the moss
that was growing on it resembled leprosy and also to align with a Khmer legend
telling the story of an Angkorian King with the disease.
We approached Baphuon but
could not get too close as they are restoring this temple. It was a victim of
the Khmer Rouge. Many of the 300,000 pieces
required for this temple have been arranged on the grounds outside the temple
and has been noted as a real life jigsaw. It was apparently supposed to be
fully restored at the start of 2008, however things haven’t obviously gone to
plan.
Next was the Bayon. This intriguing temple showcased many towers with
faces on each of the four sides. There are about 200 faces in the complex and
you can’t help but feel watched. It is said that the faces resemble that of
King Jayavarman VII. This influential (and often accused as egomaniacal) king
used this tactic to keep an eye on his people. To me, it rewrites the
definition of ‘big brother’. A little disturbing but glorious to photograph! We
didn’t stay long here however since the crowds were ridiculous and my camera
battery went flat.