Natalia Krslovic

The breeze is kind at 8am, though I know it won’t stay like this for long. For a moment, I can taste the last of the dewy air before the morning sun sucks it dry.

I’m wearing baggy harem pants and a singlet, and carry a shawl around my neck. I wish I were in a loose dress that is cut above my knee: full-length clothing is stifling in Thai heat, though I know I can't enter the temple if I’m not adequately clothed.

Suon walks ahead in her dark skinny jeans and long, printed shirt. She combs her long, dark hair with her hands, each finger adorned with a thick silver band. I wonder how she doesn’t sweat.

I follow her faithfully through the Old City, taking a left turn then a right, through streets lined with wooden houses and overflowing gardens.

Along the way, we pass a monk with a shaved head draped in auburn robes, talking on a cell phone. This leaves me confused; I know that Buddhist monks practice self-denial, so I don’t understand how this indulgence is justified. Suon, however, looks more disappointed than perplexed:

“I pray everyday to be born again as a man, so that in my next life when I become a monk, I will do it properly: no technology, no entertainment, just devotion.”

She leads down a pebbled path to the entry of Wat Phra Singh; The Temple of the Lion Buddha, one of the most important temples of Chiangmai. As we slide our shoes off, I pull the shawl over my shoulders before stepping inside.

I am greeted by the smell of oaky incense, and the smile of a golden Buddha icon. The walls are covered in elaborate illustrations, telling mythical stories of the city of Chiangmai. Suon sits on her knees facing the Lion Buddha, her feet hidden under her shirt. She closes her hands together, and presses her thumbs to her forehead in respect. She then places her hands in front of her, and bows three times to the statue, and sits quietly in prayer.

Serenely, she sits.

I mimic her actions one by one, suddenly conscious of my every move. Feeling like an intruder, I glance around the temple to see if anyone is noticing my actions.

Suon smiles knowingly, “It’s okay: you are welcome here.”

Her words run over my body, soothing my thoughts. I assume the lotus position, and close my eyes.

Temples always make me feel at ease, even though Buddhism is still foreign to me. There’s something about the warmth of the red and gold colouring, and the richness of the smokey air that makes me feel calm, makes me feel safe.

I start feeling welcome here, too.