Khampa Nomads

My Photo scholarship 2010 entry

Worldwide | Sunday, October 17, 2010 | flickr photos

I went to Kham for the story of King Gesar of Ling, an enlightened warrior king from the 11th century whom present day Khampas still revere and respect. I spent a few months reading Gesar’s story and finally put my backpack down at a Khampa nomad encampment in the Garzê Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture hoping, like most self proclaimed travelers, to be changed.

Before leaving for Dashika, the nomad’s summer pasture, a woman told me that, “the hardest and most amazing part of being in Dashika is that nothing happens.” And it was true. There were days when nothing happened, and on those days we would talk until we tired and fell silent for hours. Something always happened, though, eventually. One night a young yak was gored by another, much larger yak. In the dark we stood huddled around with solar powered flashlights as he was sewn up. At one point I looked back to find the other yaks watching; 30 pairs of eyes almost as anxious as our own.

As my time with the nomads continued I began to learn more and more of Gesar and his victories over countless evils. There could be no question that their love and faith in him was as strong as in Guru Rinpoche himself. For me, Gesar began to represent what was important in one’s country. That the culture and pride each man feels for his home cannot be taken away, that it is sacred and worth fighting for. Gesar united his people, brought peace to the land and was the embodiment of compassion. The nomads of Kham are no less heroic in the quiet ways that they go about their lives in silence and in story.

I am continually reminded of my time with the Khampa nomads and the joy it was to learn from them.