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Echoes of the Grahamstown festival

My Travel Writing Scholarship 2011 entry - My Big Adventure

WORLDWIDE | Sunday, 27 March 2011 | Views [183] | Scholarship Entry

Xolelwa is very excited today. There’s the prospect of us visiting the theatre to see the stage performance of Brett Bailey’s iMumbo Jumbo. She’s my guide to whom I’ve assigned the task of choosing my shows. This is no simple assignment. I’m a perfectionist. It’s not at all easy to please me. I want to feel the deep meaning of an artistic rendition and be drenched in its trajectories.

“This play will leave you spellbound” Xolelwa tells me with pregnable persuasion. “But why” I ask. “There’s Thuthula by Chris Mann, The Vagina Monologues by Eve Ensler, Cry My beloved Country as dramatized by Heinrich Reisenhofer, Auditioning Angels by Pieter Dickis Uys and a host of plays showing at the many venues of the international arts festival in Grahamstown.

Xolelwa heaves. “Do you've a worldview? What existential link is there between the physical and spiritual realm?” She asks. I gasped in anxiety. “Let iMumbo Jumbo supply the answers” she teases. Instantly my interest is awakened. I’m a culture enthusiast to whom digging into myths is an obsession. I’ve explored the Delphi of ancient Greek, the tomb of Giza in Egypt and the shrines of Oshun Oshogbo. Yet my yearning for cultural exploration seems insatiable.

I agree to attend.

It’s few minutes past 2 pm. We’re inside the capacity-filled Nombulelo hall. The door is closed. But there’s a bit of delay. At an angle from the rear, I catch a glimpse of the backstage. The cast have adorned their traditional costume. They’re putting finishing touches to their appearance. There stands Bailey tending stridently to the slightest details. He puts a misplaced accessory in order and enchantingly stimulates his cast.

A steady Transkei drumbeat begins. Like a hypnotic spell, it encapsulates our mind and frees our inner being. It elevates us soon to the preternatural and brings us back to the physical realm with the gusto of a swinging pendulum. Gbaaaam! The curtain opens. The epic story unfolds. We see a South Africa where violent crimes have plundered the moral sanctum and a chief Gcaleka - the charismatic African myth hero character - happiest at conquest. He embarks on a sanctimonious journey to retrieve the skull of King Hintsa to redeem the situation. He's confronted by storm and siege, whirlwind and tempest.  For him nothing is honorable except the goblet of victory. No half measures. No retreat. He either wins or loses.

Now the play is over. I am completely drenched in Bailey’s metaphysical world. Xolelwa tells me Bailey had to spend 3 months in the tents of traditional witchdoctors (sangomas) in rural Transkei learning the deep mystical flourish of Xhosa tradition to be able to write this play. There's a potent lesson for me. When I return to Nigeria, spend some time with traditionalists in rural areas. Like chief Gcaleka, I want to find the 'holy grail' to end the tumultuous kidnappings and militancy, which like South Africa, have bedeviled our society and plundered our moral sanctum.

 

 

 

Tags: #2011writing, travel writing scholarship 2011

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