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Philippines (Puerta Princessa, El Nido, Coron, San Juan)

PHILIPPINES | Sunday, 1 May 2011 | Views [1146]

Philippines

 

Our first impression of The Philippines was grand.  The ladies at the “Tourist Information” desk were more than helpful when we rolled up with no clue where we wanted to go. 

“What’s easy, cheap, & available for tonight?”

 “Where do you want to go Sir?”

“North... Or South...  Whatever is easy, cheap, & available?”

(While proof reading, I see this quote could be easily misinterpreted.)

 

With great help from beautiful Filipino people, we found ourselves on the next flight south to Palawan.  A guy from the south east islands also planned to stay overnight in the airport, and so we stuck it out together.  What a friendly young man...  Interpreted for us when necessary, even bought us a midnight snack!

 

Puerto Princesa was our first stop on Palawan.  Not too much going on, but we managed to find a few things.  Our room was a bit of a dive, but it was nice to have A/C for a change.  One of the major adverts for P.P. is the 8.5KM underground river, why not?  Pretty amazing, but at the end of the day was a bit of a bore only because we have seen our share of amazing caves.  Its location forces 3 different styles of transport on you & not for a good price. 

 

With not much else to do, it was time to move north.  Our “plan” was to hit Port Barton, back track, and head up further to El Nido.  The price difference for travel surprised us, so straight to El Nido it was.  What a beautiful place.  Set in a quiet bay, El Nido’s small town feel was exactly what we were looking for.  We had spent the few days we had bumming around, taking in the dirt roads, beach restaurants, & snorkelling the many, many islands just off shore.

 

Travel & accommodation has blown our Philippine budget pretty quickly forcing us to get back to our searching the streets for a deal.  Ben & I strolled the beach for fisherman willing to rent their boat & a driver for the day.  Unfortunately, because of El Nidos’ small size, they had us where they wanted us.  They justified the price for their boat (afloat with Pepsi bottles & Styrofoam) as a “private tour”.  Fair enough.  Although we wanted to explore on our own, away from the crowds of people, the tour price was just right.

 

The Philippines did not offer the gallery of Hostels previous countries had.  Most of our stays were at hotel rooms where the visitors don’t information share about things to do, places to go, or how to get the best deals.  Again, the budget had us when it was time to make tracks so we cruised the streets looking for the best rate to get to Coron, an island breaking up the trip back to Manila.  Even at the port, the attendants don’t let you in on the local ferry information, forcing a tourist ticket for 5 times the price.  Just when you think you may have found a slight deal, you get on a boat only loaded full of the white man.

 

A few seconds after setting sail from the pier, we came to slow stop.  One of the operators dove into the water with 1950’s dive mask looking for our... propeller...  Should be thankful that it fell off only 10 feet from the dock?  Sometime later, they screwed ‘er back on, a little tighter, & we set sail through some of the most gorgeous waters we’ve seen.  Tiny islands, beautiful white sand, turquoise waters, & all with no more than a few fisherman huts residing on their fringes.  If only we could stop off... But we weren’t invited L

 

Just when we were starting to really enjoy our trip through paradise, Ben drags himself back into the cabin, tear in eye, head barely lifted.  He had dropped his i-Pod into the depths.  Poor guy.  Music is everything to him, especially on those 10 hour bus rides.

 

We didn’t know much about Coron, & so, were very thankful that a room was available in town.  Nothing special, but at least it was a place to lay our heads.  Island hopping was a bit better priced & apparently the reefs had survived local dynamite fishing better than around El Nido.  Unfortunately for us, the funds were already spent out in Palawan.  But we were able to enjoy cheap food & a great hike to the top of the towns’ hill for a beautiful sunset over the outlaying islands.

 

Ben caught sight of a sushi place just down the road from our hotel, a sign that a nice lunch was deserved.  Excited to enjoy some fresh sashimi, we barely noticed a man saunter half drunk onto the patio.  Finally he asked to join us.  With no real reason to say no, we nodded & he plunked himself down.  Well, that was the end of our chilled out lunch.  This guy was unreal.  As we ate, our new Irish friend pounded back beer after beer as if he was the only one who had underground news of an approaching beer ban. 

“You guys sure you don’t want one?”

Finally, after the fourth decline, we accepted.  We figured he owed us something for our fabulous company!!

I won’t go into too much detail about the statements that came out of this guys mouth, but it was good for a laugh.  He meant well, but a little too sauced to make much sense.  At one point, he snatched my sandal, threw it down under his head & with his best efforts, attempted a head stand, each time crashing down smashing his knees into the tile floor.  He also proved his intelligence with the remark “I’m pretty smart too ya know... For example, I know that E-MC2.  I don’t remember how I know that... I just know it, ya know?  And that guy, well, he didn’t either... An apple just dropped on his head one day, and he knew it, just like me.”

What an interesting day that was.  Nice enough guy, but we needed a break from it after 6 hours.  How random.

 

We had underestimated the lengthy travel times between each place within The Philippines, and time was ticking fast.  It’s a bit difficult to reach the corners of the country because Manila serves as the hub for all travel.  The shortest line isn’t always a possible route.  Based on our last dealing with ferries, it was less time consuming & a better price to fly back to Manila.  From there, we bussed north to San Juan, a small surf community a few minutes from San Fernando.

 

San Juan was surprising.  For its popularity amoung the surfer crowd, it was pretty small.  You could easily drive past & not take notice.  Just a few km worth of beach front accommodation, then back to typical Philippines.  Because of this, if you’re not surfing, you’re not doing much at all.  We dove right in opting out of lessons since we had a little experience from surfing out in Tofino.  Well, apparently that was long, long ago...  We didn’t accomplish much & the next day came crawling back to the shop begging for a lesson.  It turned out to be a wise decision, & the next few days we were able to spend a little more time on the board instead of in the “washing machine”.

 

Ben & I have tried to stay with the times when a t.v. or English newspaper is around, which isn’t very often.  When we sat down at a table & looked up to see that an earthquake had rocked Japan, we were more than surprised.  Everyone around us discussed what they would do if the expected tsunami hit our side of The Philippines.  The general feeling was that we were in the clear, which in the end, we were.  Just when that scare faded, people were running around with talk of nuclear poisons coming our way.   Yeesh... What’s next??

 

The waves eventually died down, & we were on the road again.  This time out of the country, excited to meet friends from home, Jason & Nessa, due to meet us in Indonesia.

Overall, the Philippines was a great time.  With a little more time & money, we could have enjoyed all the things we wanted to.  In comparison, accommodation, travel, & tours are on the expensive end (we’re ultra cheap, so expensive meaning $15-25 rooms, $30-$50 boats, $20-$30 tours), while food, drinks, & surf lessons are within our “ultra cheap” budget.  Part of my love for the Philippines was that there were not a million travellers like me within 2KM radius, & the locals were not just crowding around to serve or sell you something.  It was a nice change.  There is so much more the country has to offer & the people are amoung some of the friendliest we’ve met. 

Can’t wait to see Indonesia!!

Love to you all.

B&B

 

 

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