Adventures from Kirkuland

"Turn right at the abandoned petrol station and follow your nose to the sea".
Local knowledge offered with a smile should never be ignored from a face cracked deep with laughter.
"Be sure to go just before low tide and take something to dig with".

From my holiday beach house I scrounged a pink plastic spade designed for the tiny hands of a two-year-old. Something to dig with - check. Lacking mobile coverage, the only tide chart I could find was bleached and curling in the bathroom. It was dated 1987. The tide would be a gamble.

Atop the sand dune the on-shore wind was a rip-snorter, carrying salty spray that painted the pine forest behind me a dusty gray. Below, the shimmering black expanse of the west coast sands sparkled in the afternoon light. Ink splot puddles, remnants of the receding waters littered the beach, reflecting the puffy clouds above. The gamble had paid off. The tide was out. Three deeper puddles were filled with joyous young families, their laughter carrying to me on the wind as they joked and played in the bliss of a private, customised, natural thermal spa. No crowds, no fees.

I ran down to join them, guided by the rising steam and found a spot to dig. Building my own hot pool with a child's toy was a struggling battle against the shifting sands but I was victorious. In ten minutes I had created my own Goldilocks spa. Not too hot, not too cold, just right.

The gentle rumble of the ocean and the occasional call of the sea birds overhead encouraged me to relax. A cliché of relaxation sounds artificially recreated at wellness centres throughout Europe designed to simulate this very experience. Facing the rolling white surf I stretched out, soaking in the warmth and taking full advantage of the ridiculous pristine natural beauty. What a find.

Kawhia lies about a three hour drive south-west of Auckland. Once you get to the sleepy fishing settlement, ask a friendly local for the hot water beach tide times. Take the conveniently named Ocean Beach Road to the beach. At the end park your car and follow the only track over the steep sand dune. Head directly towards the surf and dig at the low tide mark finding a warm spot with your bare feet. If it's too hot, you can play in the waves to cool off, but remember this coast is rough and wild so beware of the rip. Don't forget on the way home to stop and buy some Fish'n'Chips from the general store back in the village. You won't regret it.