Vagabond

Every road ends. Some in the sea and some in the jungle. This particular road in Parvati valley ends in the foothills of the Himalayas after which it is demoted from a vehicular road to a trail. You walk along the trail with a herd of goat for company who demand a right of way, cross a narrow clear water stream over a rope bridge and eventually you end up in this village called Tosh. Curious eyes belonging to sturdy and simple mountain folks greet you. The mountain air in May in this part of the world is none too frosty and none too warm. It's just right.

At the start of the village, this bloke called Ravi runs a modest Four room property. Across this, is the cabin. A rectangular structure made of timber with clear glass on three sides. The glass brings in the nature. Surrounded by pristine snow-covered peaks interspersed with greenery in the lower reaches, this cabin is cathartic.

The cabin also doubles up as a common dining area. Everyone sits on the floor covered with colourful dhurries(traditional carpet) along the walls. Food is served on a low table(The chef named Om is a gem). The one wall which is not glass is covered with a really large Bob Marley portrait. The cabin is kept warm by an angeethi(traditional brazier) in the centre. Music ranging from traditional folk to Pink Floyd is played from an ancient looking instrument. You are free to bring your own.

As the evening progresses, various kind of people drop in and out. You will meet the Israelis out here chilling after the conscription in their country, the Delhi crowd in for a quick smoke and banter on their way to Manali. You will meet the intrepid trekkers making a night halt before an arduous trek to Kheerganga and you will come across the long stayers.

As the crowd builds up so does the conversation. A hookah is lit up and passed around. The angeethi sees many hands over it. Someone narrates a great tale of travel. Others smile knowingly in the warm embrace of their companion. The cook and the owner, after wrapping up the day and seeing to that every one is fed, join in. The cook speaks of his home country Nepal. The owner narrates how this place is six feet deep in snow in the winters. All this while, the mountain peaks glow in the moonshine. The cabin ceases to be just a cabin and transforms into a time and space capsule with each story that is narrated.

You walk out. You look up to see a million stars in the cloudless May sky. And then you see it. You see why one travels.