Our day in Hangzhou started off like any other in China; with food. We arrived at breakfast to witness the whole hotel; guests and cleaning staff included, dining at the buffet. I ventured, with plate in hand, to find something to satisfy my desire for fresh fruit. I found it in the form of watermelon and rockmelon. However, if I wanted yoghurt, I had to drink it from a container through a straw and if I wanted an egg I couldn't ask for a poached egg or omlette, they only came one way; FRIED. However, I did get my steamed bun fix and tried some of the sweet marshmellow cake that Hangzhou is known for. Remember this was breakfast.
We ventured out into Hangzhou with our guide Wei Min. Remember this is China where everything happens instantly and innovatively. After discovering that we were to establish where we wanted to visit in Hangzhou and that we would be taken we quickly consulted the guidebook. Where does one go in the only place on earth the Chinese deem as 'Heaven'. After a 5 minute consultation we decided that some pagodas, a tea plantation and the infamous lake would suffice. This led to a rather rapid conversation with the first driver of a 'minivan' that we encountered after we exited the lobby of the hotel. Remember that the Chinese must put in an 'oscar winning' performance to get business and thus it was the case. We were bundled into the first 'good price' van and set off despite not being quite sure where we were going and what we were to see. This set the pattern for the next week.
After weaving through the traffic and with much rapid consultation of our guide book we arrived at the first pagoda. We caught glimpses of the lake between the traffic and trees. Since returning from China some people have asked me how I enjoyed the lake views of Hangzhou or a tour on the lake. I must admit that I saw only 'glimpses' through the tinted windows of the bus. Perhaps I have done too much wrong and that is the only glimpse of 'heaven' I will ever get?
The ......Pagoda is much as Paul remembers it 12 years ago. I remember the views over the lake through the open Pagoda doors, the superb carvings coloured in gold, red and black but I don't remember the express escalators up to the entrance. I wondered whatever happened to the strenuous trek a pilgrim had to take to reach enlightenment? However, we were pleased to see how the temple had been restored after the foundations had been affected by an earthquake in the early 30s when the temple had slipped down towards the lake. The temple was restored in recent years and as a result much gold was found in the foundations. How fortunate for the government and the restorers!
We then ventured on in the minivan to a tea plantation. 12 years ago, when Paul and I were visiting Hangzhou, we tasted the famous 'Dragon Wheel Tea'. I purchased some of the tea at great expense and then was fraught with angst when I left it in Singapore as I returned to Australia and was unable to pack the tea in my shipping as it was perishable. I was keen to experience the infamous 'Dragon Wheel' again and I was delighted when we were offered a tour of the plantation. I was pleased to see that nothing had changed in 12 years. We were still offered tea tastings and recieved the explanation about the 'growing' of the tea that remains the same. My purchase was still wrapped in what I refer to as 'plastic sticky tape' and I prayed to the Chinese gods that my purchase would make it safely through Australian customs as a 'sealed imported product'.
Then on to what my husband states with some amusement 'the silk burning experiment'. We were taken to a silk factory to listen to a interactive demonstration on silk manufacturing; including a live 'burning and stretching of silken threads' to ensure that we are witnessing the genuine article. I had forgotten most of this experience although Paul remembers it vividly. I was more amused by the 'rote' presentation of sales woman with her perfect American accent. She had the name to match 'Candy'. This is another aspect of China I had forgotten; the Americanization of every Western name by any Chinese student who has learnt English. Candy clearly carried out her job effectively as I made several purchases of silk scarves and a jacket. At the end of the day; someone in the chain (or everyone) made something out of our experience.
After several offers, of which we unfortunately declined, now to my regret, a tour of the lake, we arrived back in Hangzhou central. We demanded our first 'dumpling meal' and dumplings we got! All 48 of them! Wei Min took us to the best dumpling restaurant in Hangzhou. Although the decor resembled a McDonalds on Swantson or Pitt Street; we had dumplings that left any four star establishment in Australia to shame.
There are several things a diner must observe in China. You must dig in altogehter, with your chopsticks and make as much mess at the one time. You must speak loudly whilst you are eating and you must ignore how shabby the establishment that you are dining in is as usually it serves the best quality food. The dumpling house in Hangzhou was all of these.
After lunch we tossed up whether to take advantage of Hangzhou's unique bike system and hire a free bike for an hour round the lake, or just experience the city. We decided on the latter. We walked for a while looking at the glass fronted stores selling clothing that would never fit us and also at all the whitegoods that we could easily afford had we lived on the salaries we had in China. Finally we risked crossing a main road to climb up to one of the main Pagodas overlooking the city to get a superb view of the city. The temple was tranquilly above the busy city streets and even depicted similar scenes many centuries ago.
Finally we descended to the busy back streets to see people selling everything from plastic toys to vegetables to pets. After sampling some watermelon and witnessing an outdoor hairdresser we decided to venture back to our hotel. This proved more difficult that we imagined. It was peak hour in Hangzhou and taxis were scarce. We were decided that we would have to risk taking the local bus when the local form of transport arrived: 'The Tuk Tuk!'. You have no idea that three women can fit into one small form of transport powered by one man on a a bike that would power a very small lawn mower. You also would have to believe that small vechile can weave its way through major traffic flow in one of the busiest cities in China. However, we have lived to tell the tale!!
