The Little Things: Exploring Sydney by Ferry

My first time on the Manly Ferry was a practical endeavor. Cab fair to Manly, according to my travel books, was roughly equal to my retirement savings, and so I'd elected to drag my suitcases on the airport train to Circular Quay, the ferry hub that serves as the lifeblood of Sydney's one-of-a-kind transit system.

The city is shaped like a dragon's mouth, a toothy grin that closes around the harbor and creates transportation challenges that have, in turn, given rise to some of Sydney's most iconic features--the Sydney Harbour Bridge and two distinct skylines. While the jagged shorelines limit rail options and make highway commuting a nightmare, they've forced the city to create what is arguably the best ferry system in the world.

It was foggy my first morning in Sydney, and I was jet-lagged as I boarded the boat, armed with a paper map and a hotel address in a place called Manly. Fighting the urge to sleep through the ride, I lugged my suitcases to the upper deck, which sat empty in the damp fog. No matter. I had six days in the city and I was determined to take it in.

The Manly ferry is my favorite example of a phenomenon that typifies the tourist's experience in Australia--an incredible adventure that astonishes visitors and bores locals. While it's simply a public transit route used by thousands on a daily basis, the trip is also the sort of tour that we'd pay good money for in the States--for less than 8 Australian dollars.

We steamed out of the terminal, past the Sydney Opera House and the Sydney Botannical Gardens, past the spooky Luna Park dock, past the clifftop home of the Taronga Zoo while commuters read books. Some German tourists joined me in the drizzle, snapping photos and chatting as the boat passed Middle Head, where the ocean currents tease the harbor's edge. The boat began to rock and pitch,but the motion was short lived. Moments later, we'd arrived at the terminal in the protected and serene Manly Cove, a short walk from one of the world's great beaches, quirky restaurants, and incredible accommodations. As I disembarked, the sun broke through the clouds. My Aussie adventure had begun.

I've been to Australia several times since, but the ferry remains my favorite Sydney tradition. I've learned the ropes. It's usually sunny in Sydney, and the upper decks fill fast. I know where to stand for the best chance to see a dolphin in the harbor. And in those moments, I feel for just a moment like this far-off city belongs to me, too.